"Rebuilding" a C203

[Bubblesquah]

I have a C203 with an ADF that we use in a small 2-3 person office. I purchased it used about 4 years ago from a print shop that barely used it. The imaging drums were only half used.

When the drums indicated replacement, I replaced the chips on them, realizing over time the quality would degrade. And of course it did. The image transfer belt finally came up for replacement this week.

I have decided that it makes more sense to go ahead and replace everything (all 4 drums, transfer belt, transfer roller) for about $2000 than to buy something new. Everything else about the machine is still practically brand new.

I have the service manual and I'll have no problem doing the maintenance, and cleaning. While I'm at it, are there any other parts that I should consider replacing? Any tips for cleaning or any gotchas? I'm assuming that once I'm done, the machine will function like it did brand new out of the box.

I should probably know better than to ask this question - about toner. Over the past couple of years, I did not use genuine toner in this machine. I purchased toner cartriges and I also refilled my own from bottles. Part of my rebuild is going to include replacing the waste toner box and all 4 toner cartridges with genuine KM toner. I'm assuming the consensus around here is that is the only way to go, right? Is there any technical information about the difference between genuine and not and how it effects the printer?

I appreciate any input! Thanks!

[blackcat4866]

While you have it apart, it's a good time to clean the patch sensors. With the drums, developers and transfer belts out, you'll be able to see the sensors inside the right side door. There is a mechanical shutter that moves to cover the sensors, but you can move it easily to see and clean the sensors. Also clean the laser slit glasses.

The manual has a very nice section on preventative maintenance based on copy count. I recommend that you take a few minutes to examine that section.

When you've got the new parts installed, be sure to follow the section describing stabilization and gradation.

And yes, you'll get the best results from OEM toner. =^..^=

[emujo]

IF you are ready for a xfer belt, then you may be needing a fuser unit soon, adding another $1k to the final cost. For a small additional amount you could get into a C224e. Slightly higher speed, and much more suited to todays IT environment. IMO this is the way to go, I'm dealing with this with my wife's car, she ran her 2001 Saturn w/o oil and destroyed the engine...3500 for parts and labor in a car worth about 1K....going with a new (to her anyway) auto. Emujo

[JR2ALTA]

I would see how far $2000 can get you towards a used C220-C280-C360 machine. It's the next generation up and much better. The C203 can get toner rocks that will turn your machine into a paperweight. It also has a 'transfer alienation' code that would be costly to repair.

[Bubblesquah]

While you have it apart, it's a good time to clean the patch sensors. With the drums, developers and transfer belts out, you'll be able to see the sensors inside the right side door. There is a mechanical shutter that moves to cover the sensors, but you can move it easily to see and clean the sensors. Also clean the laser slit glasses.

The manual has a very nice section on preventative maintenance based on copy count. I recommend that you take a few minutes to examine that section.

When you've got the new parts installed, be sure to follow the section describing stabilization and gradation.

And yes, you'll get the best results from OEM toner. =^..^=

Thank you sir. I have reviewed the manual and will be doing as it says, based on copy count. I will take a look at the other two items you mention. I appreciate your input!

[Bubblesquah]

IF you are ready for a xfer belt, then you may be needing a fuser unit soon, adding another $1k to the final cost. For a small additional amount you could get into a C224e. Slightly higher speed, and much more suited to todays IT environment. IMO this is the way to go, I'm dealing with this with my wife's car, she ran her 2001 Saturn w/o oil and destroyed the engine...3500 for parts and labor in a car worth about 1K....going with a new (to her anyway) auto. Emujo

Fuser shows 1 block under half "empty" at this point. I was thinking about doing the fuser too, but assumed there was no benefit to doing it early. Looks like fusing units go for about $490.

But now you have me thinking again. My thinking has been that there really isn't anything else to break on this - but I'm not the expert, so I could be wrong. We are probably what you would consider very light users - the counter is just now hitting 130,000. I would expect another 55,000 to take us at least 3 years. Does any of that change you opinion on anything? I assume the ADF on the C203 will fit the C224e?

Are there any other benefits to the C224e like longer life/cheaper consumables?

Thanks, I appreciate your input!

[blackcat4866]

Fuser shows 1 block under half "empty" at this point. I was thinking about doing the fuser too, but assumed there was no benefit to doing it early. Looks like fusing units go for about $490.

But now you have me thinking again. My thinking has been that there really isn't anything else to break on this - but I'm not the expert, so I could be wrong. We are probably what you would consider very light users - the counter is just now hitting 130,000. I would expect another 55,000 to take us at least 3 years. Does any of that change you opinion on anything? I assume the ADF on the C203 will fit the C224e?

Are there any other benefits to the C224e like longer life/cheaper consumables?

Thanks, I appreciate your input!

Yes, there is no specific benefit to changing the fuser early.

You are partially correct here. You are replacing the standard predictable consumables that we all know will need replacing at some point. But what about those things that you can't predict? As a single example, 8 year old copiers are much more prone to needing power supplies. You won't get any warning about that. If you're looking for some kind of guarantee, I'm not going to offer you one. 185K is a fully reasonable number of prints to expect from this model, but will it still be able to communicate with Windows 15 OS? Probably not.

Does this change my opinion? No. I would still fix it. But in the foreseeable future you will want newer technology.

The ADF on the C203 is not compatible with the C224e, and you can safely assume that machines 8 years apart in manufacture will not have compatible accessories.

Consumable cost now will not be that much different. There is a question you have to ask yourself though. In the coming years the toner is going to become more difficult to get, and become more expensive. Are you going to take a gamble, and buy ahead $1000 worth of toner, in the hopes that nothing else major happens, preventing you from using it? I can't answer this question for you. =^..^=

EDIT: From a technicians perspective what you're doing is a PM, not a rebuild. Back in the good old days we did 1M copy rebuilds. You would bring the machine into the shop. Remove all the imaging components. Remove and replace all the drive bushings, rollers, gears. Sometimes replacing the scanner cables and lamp. Replace all the consumables. It was an 8 to 16 hour process. AFAIK nobody does actual rebuilds anymore. =^..^=

[Bubblesquah]

Yes, there is no specific benefit to changing the fuser early.

You are partially correct here. You are replacing the standard predictable consumables that we all know will need replacing at some point. But what about those things that you can't predict? As a single example, 8 year old copiers are much more prone to needing power supplies. You won't get any warning about that. If you're looking for some kind of guarantee, I'm not going to offer you one. 185K is a fully reasonable number of prints to expect from this model, but will it still be able to communicate with Windows 15 OS? Probably not.

Does this change my opinion? No. I would still fix it. But in the foreseeable future you will want newer technology.

The ADF on the C203 is not compatible with the C224e, and you can safely assume that machines 8 years apart in manufacture will not have compatible accessories.

Consumable cost now will not be that much different. There is a question you have to ask yourself though. In the coming years the toner is going to become more difficult to get, and become more expensive. Are you going to take a gamble, and buy ahead $1000 worth of toner, in the hopes that nothing else major happens, preventing you from using it? I can't answer this question for you. =^..^=

I hear ya. I guess there really isn't a "right" answer, it is all about assuming risk. Buying a C224e and an ADF look like it will be far more than the cost of doing this.

The only fear I have in the back of my head is putting all of these parts in, and it suddenly not work at all. ;) But I assume the chances of that are pretty low.

Thanks again.

[subaro]

Interesting thread. Just want to mention though.

Never to stock toner for long term use. Toner has a shelf life and each manufacturer may have a fact sheet as to thier's. Toner sitting on the shelf for a long time can cause them to be useless and cause all type of problems. If not stored in the right tempreature or i should other than room tempreature, then they can cake and cause print quality issues ect. just my two cents here. Maybe i stand to be corrected here. so others can add or subtract to this.

Also, i don't work on this machine. But no machine is guarnteed for anything. One can go by the history of a series and predict some know faults and failures. but in general mechanical parts can fail at any time period and as it ages the rate of parts failing will go up also. Some machines, especially colour works or is more consistent in quality as it uses the dev/toner and replenishes with new ones.

[allan]

Its a good printer and changing those parts would give u perfect quality. All the advice is good. I would suggest getting new cleaning pads for the swab used to clean the exposure glasses as well check maby there is still a spare in there. The fuser can be reset as well. Even the transfer belt can be reset if it still looks ok.

[Bubblesquah]

Here are a few pictures of what it looks like after I pulled everything out. Anything here look out of the ordinary for a machine that no one has cleaned, probably ever? Yes, we use a lot of red and yellow when we do print...

285312853228533285342853528536

[blackcat4866]

Nothing extraordinary. Call it magenta, so you don't sound like a newbie. =^..^=

[Bubblesquah]

Nothing extraordinary. Call it magenta, so you don't sound like a newbie. =^..^=

Lol. I knew it was magenta, I meant to say we print a lot of red's and yellow. :)

I'll never forget Cyan, Magenta and Yellow - as a kid, in the darkroom at school, I learned to make color prints (CibaChrome) with an enlarger that had C,M and Y dials on it for color adjustment. Been burned in my mind ever since.... ;)

Thanks again for all of the input.

[EarthKmTech]

dont know if anyones mentioned it yet, but when you replace the transfer belt the roller does not come with it in this series. you have to order it separately, if your going to town and want it perfect you should change it with the belt.

[Bubblesquah]

dont know if anyones mentioned it yet, but when you replace the transfer belt the roller does not come with it in this series. you have to order it separately, if your going to town and want it perfect you should change it with the belt.

Yes, thank you - I have that on my list - so far:

- 1 of each Imaging Unit
- 1 Image transfer belt unit
- 1 Transfer roller
- 1 Waste Toner Box
- 1 of each toner

Looks like I'll be at about $1,985. And a few curse words, probably.

[EarthKmTech]

none of it is very hard at all, other than on the wallet.

pay special attention when inserting the new belt that it does not get gouged by the right side door, release the strap and cover the door in paper to be doubly sure - it's your dime. I've done it a thousand times and dont need to be careful but I have seen people destroy a perfect new belt at this critical time.

[MFPTech]

it looks like you forgot the fuser in that list...

[Bubblesquah]

it looks like you forgot the fuser in that list...

I didn't forget it - it still has half of it's life indication left.

I considered it, but wasn't sure if it made any sense to replace at this point or not. Are you suggesting to do it now?

[allan]

You should get away with that. your pictures is very low res. so difficult to see the quality of the transfer belt. Replace it but keep the old one. they are tuff and outlasts a couple of iu changes.

Remember the green stuff on the drums are photosensitive to try to keep it out of light as much as possible. Direct sunlight could destroy it.

[Desert Rat]

All of this thread is great information. The fuser reset fuse is buried in the harness in the back of the fuser. It is green in color.
The transfer belt also has a fuse. The fuse is hard wired into the harness. It is possible to just bend the ends of the new fuse and cram it into
the ends of the old one without cutting the harness. Works for me, as long as the fuser rollers are in good shape
It is an 80ma fast blow fuse. It is located behind a small plate on the front right corner. It has
two metal contacts. I think it only has one small screw holding it in. I am doing sorta the same thing with a BHC351, older yet.
But it gets little use and I bought it for $100 and that included delivery. It has worked well for about 1.5years. Now I need to replace
a drum and do some other stuff to it also. But for a $100 it has been a good little copier. When I need to replace the fuser assy.
I will just get another machine for less than the cost of the fuser.

Good luck

DR

[CompyTech]

Looks like you've done good for yourself... That's not the most terrible machine to work on. Heck, I've got a small realtor that's still using a c252(gen below yours). We do the scheduled maintenance, PM parts etc. and hope n pray it doesn't break(or they buy a new machine).. If you replace those parts your machine should run good. I wouldn't worry too much about the fuser till it breaks. One thing I would do If you don't run it that often is to run a Stabilizer once a week to keep the toner running thru. On this series you can just open and close the front door to initiate Stabilizer.

Good Luck.

[habik]

Agree with the stabilisation! The toner can compact and cause all sorts of trouble, usually non OEM. Make sure you give each TONER cartridge a good shake before you put if IN machine!!
Can send you link what can it cause if the toner auger/ hopper gets blocked. Word of advice, should this happen and you'll hear solid loud ratchet noise- immediately switch the machine Off! (Gears skipping and it will start shaving otherwise) . NOW UNPLUG THE COPIER FROM MAINS!!!and the fun part: There is top tray (grey) where paper falls when printing. On left are 3 screws for black LH side panel and under 3 screws for the grey tray. Remove the tray and that gives you access to toner hoppers from top. Pull toners out fully and the Imaging Units only about an inch or two (the rear bottom seal of toner hopper will shut) Now get 2 feet of a inch hosepipe in the main hose of vacume cleaner and seal it with sellotape. The other side of the hosepipe cut under 45 degree angle for easier control of suction. Get a torch and shine from front on let say Bk hopper top opening. Put the vac on full and with left hand hold the hose with right hand open RH side door and start turning the Transfer belt main drive White Gear (it has a C-clip). Try both ways and as you do so keep looking at the Bk hopper and start sucking all the Bk toner by touching just with half of the hose, so you can see the amounts of toner. When it seem clear. The hopper/ auger is empty and probably unblocked.
Stage 2:
To clarify this lift the hose up and push in the IU K all the way. Now the hopper is open from bottom and if you try to suck again it will start pulling toner and dev from IU K.
If you see toner flying again into the vac hose you know that auger is clear as it is now pulling from IU so can move the torch to cyan and so on.
Just one thing!!! Be careful to do it only lightly on stage 2, as it may pull more dev and cause print quality issues!! Half a second or so :) Also be aware that since you are creating a particles storm inside the vacum cleaner tube you'll get static shocks from it. So if you are sensitive to this DO NOT DO IT!!! You have been warned! :)

Hope someone finds this helpful. So far this technique helped me twice. 3x I had to put machine in bits. :)

Also these machines Main drive motor is usually starting to fail around this time. Easy to replace, just lots of back covers screws. Other than that, nice machine.

Good luck, mate!


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[Bubblesquah]

Also clean the laser slit glasses.

Working on cleaning this morning as parts should arrive today. Have the field service guide, so no problems so far.

But unable to find anything about the laser slit glasses. I suspect this is on the PH assembly? Would you mind describing exactly what to do with this? I could probably figure it out, but I don't want to make any mistakes with $2,000 worth of parts on the way.. :D

Thanks!

[Bubblesquah]

Get a torch and shine from front on let say Bk hopper top opening.

Propane or butane?

:D

[MFPTech]

Konica calls lasers as Print Heads, which is pretty stupid in my opinion, but you are right, laser units are the PH units.

[allan]

Konica calls lasers as Print Heads, which is pretty stupid in my opinion, but you are right, laser units are the PH units.

Well Kyocera calls that a scanner.

Look in the compartment infront if you open the first drawer for the tool.

[habik]

Working on cleaning this morning as parts should arrive today. Have the field service guide, so no problems so far.

But unable to find anything about the laser slit glasses. I suspect this is on the PH assembly? Would you mind describing exactly what to do with this? I could probably figure it out, but I don't want to make any mistakes with $2,000 worth of parts on the way.. :D

Thanks!

Hope this lights up things a bit :)
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/25/72c29f6cf852b7d4edc6ef13a5498181.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/25/1ca8c239045d5da6698ba93496a9197f.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/25/675991a2dbaf01fc3873b6b3750bb25c.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/25/4351977fe0f3703eb3203d7f5951d876.jpg


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[habik]

Propane or butane?

:D

Liquid paraffin works a treat. Not bad for a foreigner.


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[allan]

Well Kyocera calls that a scanner.

Look in the compartment infront if you open the first drawer for the tool.

Oops this ones in the door.:o

[Albonline]

Fuser shows 1 block under half "empty" at this point. I was thinking about doing the fuser too, but assumed there was no benefit to doing it early. Looks like fusing units go for about $490.

But now you have me thinking again. My thinking has been that there really isn't anything else to break on this - but I'm not the expert, so I could be wrong. We are probably what you would consider very light users - the counter is just now hitting 130,000. I would expect another 55,000 to take us at least 3 years. Does any of that change you opinion on anything? I assume the ADF on the C203 will fit the C224e?

Are there any other benefits to the C224e like longer life/cheaper consumables?

Thanks, I appreciate your input!
toner rocks come into play on low volume, low color use units, c203 was a solid unit but is near end of parts availability would try to up to c220 series at least. the c224e is not a proven runner, family has had some pretty serious issues.

[habik]

Just give all the toners a good shake every now and then, whether in machine or new ones put in!


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[nmfaxman]

I would order a set of feed rollers and or ADF rollers.

[subaro]

But unable to find anything about the laser slit glasses. I suspect this is on the PH assembly? Would you mind describing exactly what to do with this? [ from the owner of the post on one of his replys ]

I think this question was not answered in detail. It is a good question as the results of doing it properly pays dividend.

Habik did make some pics on an earlier thread here, but the actual process is not really explained. when i use to work on the c350, i found just cleaning with the rod and cleaning paper provided was not enough. maybe km techs can provide their procedures. correct me if i am wrong in saying that the led need extra cleaning other that the tool and pad provided with the machine.
The floor is open. speak

[habik]

But unable to find anything about the laser slit glasses. I suspect this is on the PH assembly? Would you mind describing exactly what to do with this? [ from the owner of the post on one of his replys ]

I think this question was not answered in detail. It is a good question as the results of doing it properly pays dividend.

Habik did make some pics on an earlier thread here, but the actual process is not really explained. when i use to work on the c350, i found just cleaning with the rod and cleaning paper provided was not enough. maybe km techs can provide their procedures. correct me if i am wrong in saying that the led need extra cleaning other that the tool and pad provided with the machine.
The floor is open. speak

You are correct of course, however the taken out of laser units is a painful procedure plus the cleaning tool does the job pretty decently. Always make sure the pad is clean of any dirt (blow it with duster) then do couple of swipes inside and pull out and blow the pad off again for next laser. All together 4x cleaning the pad.

I would not recommed pulling laser units out as it may knock the SOS mirror inside if they haven't been upgraded. ( the COLD weather issue) but... that was very long time ago and if no C455x codes are in history then he should be fine.

Just keep it simple, i'd say. IDC's are more important then super clean laser window.

[CompyTech]

You are correct of course, however the taken out of laser units is a painful procedure plus the cleaning tool does the job pretty decently. Always make sure the pad is clean of any dirt (blow it with duster) then do couple of swipes inside and pull out and blow the pad off again for next laser. All together 4x cleaning the pad.

I would not recommed pulling laser units out as it may knock the SOS mirror inside if they haven't been upgraded. ( the COLD weather issue) but... that was very long time ago and if no C455x codes are in history then he should be fine.

Just keep it simple, i'd say. IDC's are more important then super clean laser window.

Agreed about IDC, that series has finicky sensors. A guy I used to work with, carried extra pads for the PH jig in his tool case. He would always use a little drop of alcohol on the pad to clean it. Usually this would ruin the foam on the pad so there for would need to be replaced. Usually a few swipes(dry) does the trick and alcohol is not needed. The C280 series has the cleaning jig built in, but it seems as KM went back to the design of separate cleaning jig for the new boxes.

[subaro]

But unable to find anything about the laser slit glasses. I suspect this is on the PH assembly? Would you mind describing exactly what to do with this? [ from the owner of the post on one of his replys ]

Thanks habik for your response. Years ago when working on the kyocera fs-5016 series colour printers which used led print heads, use to encounter all kind of print quality issues, which we would replace dev,drum transfer belt ect . and quality issues would still be a problem. off course cleaning the print heads which were told to only use the cleaning rods that was on the machine.
Had one case that after swapping out parts only came to one conclusion and it was the printhead. It was not defective, but on closer examination with a 10x magnifier saw a buildup of i guess toner dust that formed a harden crust. I cleaned half of it and examined again and what a diffrence, cleaned the whole thing all four leds and really a big diffrence in the print quality.
AT the same time we had a few bizhubs, and i noticed the same thing. i cleaned he print heads without removing them from the machine. It was a using a product that did not scratch the surface of the led and with a little bit of patience colour reproduction was fantastic.
I am done with this thread now and hope more people can input their take on this.

Just add this. Alchohol is a good cleaner, but not for everything. Over the years through trials and error i have developed my own " secret formulars". that i use appropriately. Unfortunately, i do not share those secrets as yet.
definitely alchohol is not good for rubber rollers, there are lot better eco friendly procduts that do a much better job.

[Desert Rat]

Great post everyone. Thank you. I learned a lot.

DR

[JrTech]

I almost did not respond to this thread but I must put in my 2 cents on this as I am a strong advocate of OEM supplies. Let me explain with scenarios I have dealt with in my years in sales and service. I am 100% all for spending the extra $50, $100, $150 what ever it is to purchase the OEM supplies vs Generic or if I can purchase out of the trunk of a tech I am never opposed to that as well. My time as I am a contractor in the Washington DC area is worth a heck of alot more than saving a few bucks and having the FUD (Fear Uncertainty Doubt) factor wondering if it is gonna hold up. I just did a Ricoh MPC 2500 overhaul on a machine with 150k on the meter over a 4 year period and was called in after the end user tried to perform his own PM. I was called in for copy quality (CQ) and machine just stopped working and threw a code pertaining to the developers locking up. I opened the machine to see generic toner and asked the important question of when did you start having these issues. Come to find out that this is his 2nd round of generic supplies for the Cyan and Yellow as they were much cheaper. Long story short his $150 savings just cost him $2300 in parts as color drums are $500 each, black is $200, transfer belt and cleaner and oh his developer motors have damage. Machine was down for 4.5 weeks before I got to it so not only his parts but time he could not use machine as well. This is just one example of many I can write about but you get my point. It is NOT worth it. Just bite the bullet, pay a little more, call is done move onto the next one.
One thing to point out if you are not listening to what I am saying and are going for the generic supplies ask around to local dealer or techs to see what they have experienced with particular brands or you will waste lots of money trying to figure it out yourself. Look at fail rates.

If you are in need of a contractor in the Washington DC area please PM me and I will be happy to assist.

[Bubblesquah]

Ok, it is all done. I forgot how nice this thing can actually print. :D

Here is another question - something that I've noticed over the years, did not just start happening. Pages of print are "twisted" relative to the actual paper by about 1mm on 2 edges of an 11x17 page. I.e. if I'm holding a page where I've printed a solid block of color:

- at the top, the distance between the edge of the paper and where the color starts is a consistent 8mm all the way across.
- at the bottom, the distance between the edge of the paper and where the color starts is 6mm at one corner and about 6.8mm at the opposite corner.

The sides are the same - one side is even all the way across, the other side is off by almost 1mm.

I never notice this unless I am cutting. Is there some way to adjust this?

[blackcat4866]

Someone else will have to pipe up on this one, but to me it sounds like a fuser motor speed adjustment. The theory is that the leading edge hits the registration roller squarely, but since the fuser is a little slow in taking up the paper, it buckles the paper incrementally more toward the end of the 11 x 17 page. It can also throw off your image registration at the trailing edge of prints. Additionally you may see what Toshiba calls "dogleg". Essentially, at the moment the trail edge of the paper releases from the registration roller, the paper shifts, creating a distinct angle in the straight lines running in the feed direction, ~30mm from the trailing edge. =^..^=

[allan]

A good exercise would be to redo your print and scan area adjustments, dont know if it would do you any good but your borders and sizes would be good. Look in you manual under adjustments and settings then service mode and machine.

I agree with BC that the is something going off between the registration and the fuser.

[Synaux]

First, this is the same is pretty much the same engine as the c252, right?


Ok, it is all done. I forgot how nice this thing can actually print. :D

Here is another question - something that I've noticed over the years, did not just start happening. Pages of print are "twisted" relative to the actual paper by about 1mm on 2 edges of an 11x17 page. I.e. if I'm holding a page where I've printed a solid block of color:

- at the top, the distance between the edge of the paper and where the color starts is a consistent 8mm all the way across.
- at the bottom, the distance between the edge of the paper and where the color starts is 6mm at one corner and about 6.8mm at the opposite corner.

The sides are the same - one side is even all the way across, the other side is off by almost 1mm.

I never notice this unless I am cutting. Is there some way to adjust this?

8mm seems like a lot--should it not be closer to 4mm?
Lead edge shouldn't be over 7mm, check your Lead Edge Erase Adjustment setting.
I would ensure that the fuser is set correctly along with the conveyance section rollers.
In agreement with everyone else; I believe the setting you want to pay special attention to is the "Paper Feed Direction Adj" in Machine in Service Mode.

To be honest though, this is a consistent issue with Konica machines--.5-1mm deviance on 11x17/12x18's is to be expected. Furthermore, you would go mad fine tuning every setting per paper type and even every ream of paper--even on high quality papers, the cuts are rarely exactly the same case-to-case or even ream-to-ream.


But unable to find anything about the laser slit glasses. I suspect this is on the PH assembly? Would you mind describing exactly what to do with this? [ from the owner of the post on one of his replys ]

I think this question was not answered in detail. It is a good question as the results of doing it properly pays dividend.

Habik did make some pics on an earlier thread here, but the actual process is not really explained. when i use to work on the c350, i found just cleaning with the rod and cleaning paper provided was not enough. maybe km techs can provide their procedures. correct me if i am wrong in saying that the led need extra cleaning other that the tool and pad provided with the machine.
The floor is open. speak


With the IUs out you can actually half-ass blow off/vacuum the glass prior to using the pad (saves pads) then I use an old pad first with a drop or two of alcohol (if I deem in necessary) and use a screw driver on top of the pad to add a little pressure (if you somehow break/scratch the glass don't blame me). Switch jigs and clean with a new/near new pad to clean off any residue.

Edit: I typed all that and it doesn't look like that method works with these models--only on models that you can directly see the glass from taking the IU out.

There are of course caveats to taking out the PH, but sometimes it is necessary. I once had one of those pads screw up completely and it got adhesive all over the Magenta glass (c650). I was forced to take the PH out and clean it by hand--probably a good thing seeing how there was debris build up along the sizes of the glass.

[habik]

First, this is the same is pretty much the same engine as the c252, right?



8mm seems like a lot--should it not be closer to 4mm?
Lead edge shouldn't be over 7mm, check your Lead Edge Erase Adjustment setting.
I would ensure that the fuser is set correctly along with the conveyance section rollers.
In agreement with everyone else; I believe the setting you want to pay special attention to is the "Paper Feed Direction Adj" in Machine in Service Mode.

To be honest though, this is a consistent issue with Konica machines--.5-1mm deviance on 11x17/12x18's is to be expected. Furthermore, you would go mad fine tuning every setting per paper type and even every ream of paper--even on high quality papers, the cuts are rarely exactly the same case-to-case or even ream-to-ream.




With the IUs out you can actually half-ass blow off/vacuum the glass prior to using the pad (saves pads) then I use an old pad first with a drop or two of alcohol (if I deem in necessary) and use a screw driver on top of the pad to add a little pressure (if you somehow break/scratch the glass don't blame me). Switch jigs and clean with a new/near new pad to clean off any residue.

Edit: I typed all that and it doesn't look like that method works with these models--only on models that you can directly see the glass from taking the IU out.

There are of course caveats to taking out the PH, but sometimes it is necessary. I once had one of those pads screw up completely and it got adhesive all over the Magenta glass (c650). I was forced to take the PH out and clean it by hand--probably a good thing seeing how there was debris build up along the sizes of the glass.

:) C650 PH Unit is a piece of piss to take out in comparison with C353 series. Plus you have to lift the opening on each of the print head and hold it steady then screwdriver on top ... If they really need quality I rather pull it out completely and give it proper clean. :) Then of course adjust the Color Registration to 0 0 0 after stabilisation reset -+1 ;) but so far had it only once. Customer didn't want to spent money on Fiery but wanted to print like with one. Nuts. :)




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