Originally Posted by 20gaugeO/U
got a new TPH and streaking is gone - however i do get a faded right edge now on most of my drums but especially black. I'm thinking it might be the pressure roller.
It also might be the squeegee inside the black drum.
thanks again
If the light area is the same for all of the drums you have, you're probably on the right track with the pressure roller.
However, on the off chance the machine has just been idle for too long, you might want to engage the "idling" function when you make a master and see if that helps first.
The fading has increased significantly which caused me to become overzealous and attempt to readjust the pressure roller.
I got back behind the boards and was testing out the rollers positioning when I realized the roller had become stuck after it dropped down when I loosened the two black bolts that hold it up.
Now when I try to set it back - it locks up and won't freely move back under the solenoid lever.
I had it moving back and tried to run some prints through the machine but either the roller wouldn't pick up the paper or it would have a jam error and not make an impression.
Attached are some images - any ideas on what I may have seriously fudged up?
IMG_3723.JPGIMG_3724.JPGIMG_3722.JPG
Sounds like your machine is out of time or your pressure adjustment is not right. I hope you own the book, look in the adjustments of the press section for details. It wouldn't hurt to the have the Jig's they mention also (the right size wooden dowel rods work too).
Easiest thing to do would have been try a new pressure roller. They are pricey but since the machine is 10 years old the original one is probably swollen with ink and paper dust buildup. Thus not inking/pressing the edge.
I haven't worked on a 310 but I'm going to assume it has the Density arrows on the control panel (like a 390). If it does it would have been better to adjust the pressure with the motor in service mode, after replacing the pressure roller. Hind sight 20/20.
It sure is - I replaced the pressure roller prior to that adjustment. I should have looked for an alternative TM adjustment before going behind the boards to physically adjust it.
I have a tech coming in next week to look at it. I just can't figure out why the roller is stuck to the bottom of the machine.
The roller was stuck in the furthest possible down position and was stuck. After wrenching it up the timing of the entire machine had to be adjusted - it looks like it had been tweaked and adjusted before.
Now the master is being written very close to the exit edge and stops about 1/2" from the back end of the image.
Link to video on Instagram: https://instagram.com/p/13JWPVmB8c/?...pjpjpjpjpjpjpj
Here are images (note only the yellow test code 80 pattern is what im talking about in the printed image)
IMG_3980.JPGIMG_3981.JPG
Is there a way to adjust the write position // I read in the manual you had to adjust the clamp position as well.
When I enter the test mode to adjust the position (541) what does the input value mean? is it measured in mm? so if i type 20 does that mean 2 cm movement? I tried this and nothing really changed.
Any ideas? Model RZ310
Thanks,
PJ
Greetings again
as with most issues -- when I think they're resolved they just pop back
im getting a fade on the top of every print that makes images look peppery
someone mentioned it may be backlight correction - but I don't really know what that means.
I thought it might be the pressure roller and replaced it, for a moment it was better but it has returned.
Thd he fade or peppery appearance occurs in every drum so it's gotta be a machine issue
here are some images and I appreciate any insight (maybe I need to reposition my pressure roller? Someone mentioned there was a way to do that in TM)
i have a Thermal Print-head and would like to construct a driver Board, i can give the Pin-outs if needed it also has 4 Data/IN pins and 4/Data-Out Pins , i could understand the Data-IN pins. but why the 4 Data/OUT
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