HP 3600 Lock slide replacement

[techwurk]

Hello all,
Just into the shop is a HP 3600 with a broken lock slide for non cartridge engagement code.
I ordered the lock slide and was looking to see if anyone has done this replacement enough to
know how to avoid pitfalls in disassembly and reassembly, any suggestions appreciated.
lock3.JPG lock2.JPG

[Phil B.]

here's a link to liberty parts on this matter... they have very good repair articles on various subjects.

http://www.lbrty.com/tech/instructions/ins3600mda.pdf

[techwurk]

Thanks very much!!

[Phil B.]

Thanks very much!!

NP just be forewarned .... it is a booger bear of a job... take your time.. the first 1-2 times doing this repair and you will get the hang of it.

[cscce]

The article at Liberty Parts is very good. Be sure to only move the screws specified in the picture. Note that the bottom screw is on a tab and is somewhat hidden in the shadows. There are several other screws that hold the MDA housing together and you definitely don't want to open that up. Make sure the gears on the duplex drive assembly don't move as well.
Also, remove the left side cover to see if there are any broken parts. The one time I had to fix this problem there were 2 or 3 parts on the left side that were also broken. Here are the parts to examine:

Lever, lock slide, left RC1-6636-000CN
Rod, link, left RC1-6639-000CN
16 Mount, hinge, left RC1-6684-000CN

[techwurk]

Yes, thank you, i am studying the Liberty guide for this, I haven't yet removed the MDA, until the part arrives. Im glad I asked for guidance on this one because I definitely did not want to make a wrong move, looks a bit tricky for first time. The lever will be in tomorrow and the printer is in the shop which will
help instead of doing this one on the field. Thank you Phil and cscce!

[Phil B.]

Yes, thank you, i am studying the Liberty guide for this, I haven't yet removed the MDA, until the part arrives. Im glad I asked for guidance on this one because I definitely did not want to make a wrong move, looks a bit tricky for first time. The lever will be in tomorrow and the printer is in the shop which will
help instead of doing this one on the field. Thank you Phil and cscce!

"When I started servicing copiers they used toaster ovens for fusers.....I'm old "

yeah and squirrels in cages to spin the bicycle chains to move the gearing!

[Lance15]

When I started replacing the lever lock, I was circling the screws to be removed with a red marker so I wouldn't remove any wrong ones.

I've done so many of these now, it's a piece of cake. It just takes time.

[Phil B.]

When I started replacing the lever lock, I was circling the screws to be removed with a red marker so I wouldn't remove any wrong ones.

I've done so many of these now, it's a piece of cake. It just takes time.

yes I do that also on a 'new' repairs ... also put a S (steel mount) or a P ( plastic) I used to try and lay the screws on the table in the mounting pattern .. but it never fails some stupid biotch comes and knocks them around when I have to run to the head.

... on gearing assmy I always make lines on the frame and gear for proper align

on PCB's I always mark the non populated connector and take a pic of it close up to show what color wires go where.

[theengel]

The only thing I would add to Liberty's instruction is something around step 17.

I'm looking at the larger gears in illustration N--the ones with triangles pointing toward the back of the machine. Those gears are controlled from the top. If you turn the gears at the top, and push in on a solenoid (similar to feed solenoids) you can make those turn. Generally, you don't make them turn, cause there's no reason to touch any of that stuff. But if you're moving things around and unwittingly 'activate' the plate on the solenoid, it will turn enough to be 'off' even though it looks like it is all lined up. Then, when you start the machine, it's FUBAR. I took apart a machine 5 times before I figured this out.

So, to make sure it's right, you can go ahead and activate the solenoid and make it move by turning the gears at the top. Just keep turning them until you see the solenoid plate catch again. Then do it AGAIN. The solenoid has to be activated twice for that gear (the one with the triangle) to make a complete turn.

Plus--there's two solenoids and gear sets. One controlling the black, and one controlling all the colors.

As I look at everything I just typed, I realize very little of it would make sense to most people... until they run into the problem. I think next time I take one apart, I'll take a video of that to show what I'm talking about.