I am looking to see what chemicals are working on KM one way bearings. We currently use Fedron but are looking for a lower cost alternative.
I am looking to see what chemicals are working on KM one way bearings. We currently use Fedron but are looking for a lower cost alternative.
As for me, there are a lot of variants to prevent the mud then to remove it. For instance, Ereztech uses special methods for custom synthesis to make the items preventing mud on screens of any type. Why not use it?
We just use alcohol to clean oneways and scuff up the shaft with a scotch brite pad. lately I've just been replacing them when I replace the rollers but many of my fellow techs just clean them.
Stopped using Fedron years ago. Forget about the cost what about the techs health! That stuff is deadly!!!
Back in the day when we used it many times the customer would call service dept and tell us to never use that again in their office. Workers in office complained of headaches, etc.
Last edited by copyman; 03-28-2020 at 03:21 AM.
A Ricoh Service Tech for 7 year. A Konica Minolta Service Tech for 7 years. Now, KM service manager for 3 years.
My Ricoh knowledge is slowly dwindling away at this point. Many things have been lost to time...
"You can't trust your eyes, if your mind is out of focus" --
Speaking of chemicals, us old time techs were exposed to so many chemicals 30-40 years ago. A few I remember is Sharp Pikle drum polish to polish Cadium drums which in itself is deadly and also a clear liquid (forgot name) to clean the fuser rollers on the SF-800 series, 811,820,etc. They would give you a large wooden stick and this liquid to clean fuser roller. This was part of the 4-6 hour PM breathing in all this crap!
Plus the dispersant in the liquid Savin models, or the Bransen machine that cleaned the tanks in the shop!
Not to mention all the toner we have breathed in over the years (talk about black coal miners lungs!)
Not sure how I have a mind left? ( I know that's questionable to some here)
Alcohol on rag using a screwdriver, dab of oil on rag with screwdriver, scotch brite on shaft.
Some guys will instinctively scuff the shaft with a file. I wouldn't recommend that. After a million replace the shaft.
I use alcohol and a q-tip on the bearings, soak the q-tip with the alcohol and run it around inside the bearings
I have used fine emery cloth to scuff up the shaft, just make sure to go cross ways of the bearing dirrection.
As for the chemicals of days gone past!! Rubber Rejuvenator was the worst...
The drive to work in the morning wasn't bad, but the flight home at the end of the day was something else!!!!
Another was stuff called blanket wash, sure did a number on the hands if you used it too many times in a day.
$hit Happens - Deal with it and move on.........................................................................Lock & Load
Ain't that the truth. In High School (1978-80) I worked summers in the paint booth etching aluminum parts with Trichlorethelene in a sprayer. There wasn't any sort of ventilation or masking at the time. I haven't had much of a sense of smell since then. There are times when it's been a convenience.
Back on topic:
I've always used orange oil based solvents or alcohol and a cotton swab to clean out the sludge, then Triflow lubrication.
I'll have to disagree with the majority on scuffing up the shafts. A torrington relies on a specific shaft diameter to work properly. So if you were to take a worn down shaft, and wear it down further by scuffing, I don't see how that restores the original shaft diameter. In the short term, shimming the one-way to one side or the other to grab some good shaft will help. Other than that replacing the shaft is the only other option.
=^..^=
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
Good advice but have to disagree about "not" scuffing the shaft. Scuffing up the shaft with "scotch brite" pad only was even recommended to us by Kon/Min factory rep. Like the other poster said make sure to scuff up the length not around shaft. Been doing it for many years and works great! One of my top 10 tips for Kon/Min!
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