i used varn blanketwash for 10 years then switched to IPA.
always scuff the shafts if cleaning the bearings.
i used varn blanketwash for 10 years then switched to IPA.
always scuff the shafts if cleaning the bearings.
We know a thing or two because we've seen a thing or two.
Also don't ask me for files without a contributor badge.
Not a huge fan of IPAs (give me gas).
I have ~10x 5 gallon containers of blanket wash in storage (I think it is varn - pm me if you want some - I cannot give this stuff away in these parts). Very good stuff. Little residue, quick evaporation, low odor (still has a sweet stink to it) and cleans better than isopropyl (ethanol alcohol is still king for cleaning out my braincells though). Isopropyl is my go-to though (and WD40 if needed). This is more a convenience thing as I never bothered to find a good container for the blanket wash (yes, I am lazy).
Shadow mentioned rubber rejuvenator. I have an old can of the stuff. I pull it out for special cases only because it stinks so bad. It stinks, cleans the besterest and even gets rid of the cockroaches (customers) but still inferior in regards to killing braincells than your favorite libation.
As far as scuffing the shaft with scotch brite, yes is it "soft" metal but not that soft. Wearing the shaft OD out of tolerance using scotchbrite is like trying to cut your leg off with a plastic butter knife. I use a piece of worn out emery. I only perform a few parallel passes - lightly. This method of scoring/etching would take decades to degrade the OD tolerance and we are talking about tens of thousands of an inch (machining lingo). Using mild abrasions is more to clear off oxidation and problematic debris.
Just my opinion.
Hey!
Goof-Off melts plastic and sends snoopy "looky-loo's away from the repair site.
Goo-gone is a great cleaner for feed tires and aligner rollers, etc.
M.E.K is a really great shot to the nose and standard for 1970-1976 cleaming solutions.
Methal Ethyl Ketone.
Buffed selenium drums with Brasso polish all day long...no gloves.
Hit the chrome shiny metal aligner rollers with scotch-brite for better feed and registration problems.
We all were once young and bullet proof.
I loved how Goof Off worked on non-porous surfaces, but made a mistake on an older Sharp copier to remove the past repair company's ID sticker. The cover surface began melting, I panicked, trying to keep damage to a small area. Luckily, my company's ID sticker covered up the damage - whew.
"You can't trust your eyes, if your mind is out of focus" --
Does anybody remember the Ikon Canons refurbished in Mexico? As part of the process the covers were powder coated a pretty beige.
On the first few service calls when the covers started getting dirty, we discovered that the powder coating would come off at about the same rate as the dirt.
=^..^=
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
I seem to recall canon machine saying refurbished in Mex or something like that. And think I remember how nice and new they looked but didn't last long.
Back in the day you could send covers away and get re-painted to exact OEM colors. It was a big business because those were the days you would actually "completely" rebuild a machine from frame up!
Also there were companies like NA Trading that sold OEM colored paints, lol (happen to still have a can of Ricoh Beige, has to be at least 20 years old and still sprays! see attached)
*Sorry for getting off topic...
Last edited by copyman; 03-29-2020 at 03:39 AM.
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