[PICS] What needs replacing here?

[Phil B.]

fuck the chip and all who use them.
replace the damn worn consumables and fix the damn thing!

normally i dont get that rude and direct but im tired of seeing "I put a band-aid on a broken arm but it still hurts"
im starting to think maybe Phil has it right all along

Thanks Brother!

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[allan]

fuck the chip and all who use them.
replace the damn worn consumables and fix the damn thing!

normally i dont get that rude and direct but im tired of seeing "I put a band-aid on a broken arm but it still hurts"
im starting to think maybe Phil has it right all along

Hehe let it rip.
Hey i do use chips by the way and fuck me for doing it.
My non contract customers has no problem with me using them to get all the value out of the parts.
Phil has the 6th sense for bullshitters the gift comes with a price.

Hey OP. Buddy do you want to fix it yourself?
If you don't like taking stuff apart there is a good chance that you will find a way to screw it up.
Have you considered hiring a tech?

[Phil B.]

Hehe let it rip.
Hey i do use chips by the way and fuck me for doing it.
My non contract customers has no problem with me using them to get all the value out of the parts.
Phil has the 6th sense for bullshitters the gift comes with a price.

Hey OP. Buddy do you want to fix it yourself?
If you don't like taking stuff apart there is a good chance that you will find a way to screw it up.
Have you considered hiring a tech?

Allan,
Thanks I guess?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[Synthohol]

I never did it myself, I was told it had 80% consumables on the drum units when purchased and received it with 0% and assumed they replaced the drum. I agree with your quote,

the person who screwed you over is whom i was addressing i guess. not you if you got stuck with a piece of bruised fruit but with that said in the long run its always better to pop in a new OEM drum and know you should get 80k+ out of it and know its not contributing to the CQ issue.

[blackcat4866]

Before you spend a lot of money try this:
Wand the primary charge wires and laser slit glasses, then print off these images and post the results.

130K is not really a lot on the developing units. As long as you're using OEM toner they should be still serviceable.

Dirty laser slit glasses could cause a lot of your voids.
The lines seen best in orange are probably caused by the magenta drum unit.
The images you show indicate to me that you'd be best to start out with the black and magenta drums, and a gradation and stabilization.
Once you've done that much you (read: We) can diagnose it further, without spending a lot of money.
=^..^=

[allan]

Before you spend a lot of money try this:
Wand the primary charge wires and laser slit glasses, then print off these images and post the results.

130K is not really a lot on the developing units. As long as you're using OEM toner they should be still serviceable.

Dirty laser slit glasses could cause a lot of your voids.
The lines seen best in orange are probably caused by the magenta drum unit.
The images you show indicate to me that you'd be best to start out with the black and magenta drums, and a gradation and stabilization.
Once you've done that much you (read: We) can diagnose it further, without spending a lot of money.
=^..^=

So true we are skipping the most basic of maintenance.
Good advice.

Print some half-tones and post that.

[schmeckles22]

Hehe let it rip.
Hey i do use chips by the way and fuck me for doing it.
My non contract customers has no problem with me using them to get all the value out of the parts.
Phil has the 6th sense for bullshitters the gift comes with a price.

Hey OP. Buddy do you want to fix it yourself?
If you don't like taking stuff apart there is a good chance that you will find a way to screw it up.
Have you considered hiring a tech?

Tech is next to impossible with my city on full lockdown, all businesses closed again I have bought 4x black drums and CMY chips to screw onto them.

Before you spend a lot of money try this:
Wand the primary charge wires and laser slit glasses, then print off these images and post the results.

130K is not really a lot on the developing units. As long as you're using OEM toner they should be still serviceable.

Dirty laser slit glasses could cause a lot of your voids.
The lines seen best in orange are probably caused by the magenta drum unit.
The images you show indicate to me that you'd be best to start out with the black and magenta drums, and a gradation and stabilization.
Once you've done that much you (read: We) can diagnose it further, without spending a lot of money.
=^..^=

Thank you, I have done the test you've provided, the forum won't allow me to upload so I have hosted it on GDrive
SCAN20071400400.pdf - Google Drive
The quality is not great but you can see the lines. It's hard to see from the scans but with the black graduation I can see yellow, magenta and cyan lines mixed in with the pixels? Slightly visible on the page 7 with the black.
Please note that these were printed on round label paper so excuse the circles

OEM toner is being used with this printer.

[blackcat4866]

I was wondering about the circle pattern.

Yes all the drums are bad. I never saw the point in re-chipping old drums. Start there, and the gradation and stabilization. Use good quality 96 brightness paper on you calibrations. It will make a huge difference in the results of the calibrations. =^..^=

[schmeckles22]

I was wondering about the circle pattern.

Yes all the drums are bad. I never saw the point in re-chipping old drums. Start there, and the gradation and stabilization. Use good quality 96 brightness paper on you calibrations. It will make a huge difference in the results of the calibrations. =^..^=

Perfect! Purchased 4 black drums and the chips to put on them.
Appreciate the help and will keep the thread updated - Now to have a rant at the seller tomorrow and start the PayPal claim.

[Synthohol]

hey, are you printing on medallion label sheets?
i see lots of circles.