Konica minolta bizhub C454e keeps jamming in the DF unit (Error 66-05)

[femaster]

Hi everyone, I have 2 Konica minolta that keep jamming pages that I want to scan/print. It happens after a random number of pages, the page gets stuck half-way out the DF unit and it says error 66-05. It also shows position 25 that is directly under the DF unit. I have already tried to clean every roller, but it keeps happening. Manual says: "The original reading sensor (PS4) is not turned OFF after a lapse of a given time after the original registration sensor (PS3) is turned OFF (blocked)." I'm not sure that this could be the cause of thejamming..Is it worth to replace a sensor? What should I do?

If you have a C454e, then wherever you got your jam code info from is wrong. J66-05: "The document reading sensor (PS6) is not turned OFF after a lapse of a given time after the registration
sensor (PS3) is blocked."

Lift up the ADF. On the Left side of the ADF, you will see a black plastic strip with a metal plate attached to it on the left side of the white "roller". There is a notch in the center (front to back) of this plastic strip (See Attachment). Inside that hole is the PS6 sensor, and across from it, attached to the black plastic, is a felt pad that you can not see. On this model of ADF, Konica Minolta decided it was a good idea to eliminate the ability to flip this open for cleaning, and decided that screwing it to the ADF was a better idea; they were WRONG. Take a can of compress "air" and blow out the inside area of this notch, and there is 98% chance that your jamming will stop.

[srvctec]

If you have a C454e, then wherever you got your jam code info from is wrong. J66-05: "The document reading sensor (PS6) is not turned OFF after a lapse of a given time after the registration
sensor (PS3) is blocked."

Lift up the ADF. On the Left side of the ADF, you will see a black plastic strip with a metal plate attached to it on the left side of the white "roller". There is a notch in the center (front to back) of this plastic strip (See Attachment). Inside that hole is the PS6 sensor, and across from it, attached to the black plastic, is a felt pad that you can not see. On this model of ADF, Konica Minolta decided it was a good idea to eliminate the ability to flip this open for cleaning, and decided that screwing it to the ADF was a better idea; they were WRONG. Take a can of compress "air" and blow out the inside area of this notch, and there is 98% chance that your jamming will stop.

The problem with just shooting air in there is that the pad is never directly cleaned because of the limited access. I've just resorted to always removing the 3 screws on the metal plate (watch out for the grounding spring and how it goes back in place looped around the protrusion on the plate) and the 2 screws on the black plastic guide which will then give enough clearance to actually get the air stream onto the felt pad. I do this disassembly every single time I see the jam code is a 66-05 because I've gone behind other lazy techs that will NOT disassemble something to properly clean it and the code always comes back in short order. Sure, it takes a few extra minutes to disassemble but definitely solves the problem until the pad/sensor get dirty again in a few weeks/months.

[femaster]

The problem with just shooting air in there is that the pad is never directly cleaned because of the limited access. I've just resorted to always removing the 3 screws on the metal plate (watch out for the grounding spring and how it goes back in place looped around the protrusion on the plate) and the 2 screws on the black plastic guide which will then give enough clearance to actually get the air stream onto the felt pad. I do this disassembly every single time I see the jam code is a 66-05 because I've gone behind other lazy techs that will NOT disassemble something to properly clean it and the code always comes back in short order. Sure, it takes a few extra minutes to disassemble but definitely solves the problem until the pad/sensor get dirty again in a few weeks/months.

I do this myself as well. That disassembly can be a bit tricky with that spring attached to the metal plate if you've never done it before. Since this sounds like an end user with the problem, I felt it better to just have them blow it out. I'd hate for them to attempt to pull it apart and have that spring jump off the plate, as it can be a bastard to get back on.

[srvctec]

I do this myself as well. That disassembly can be a bit tricky with that spring attached to the metal plate if you've never done it before. Since this sounds like an end user with the problem, I felt it better to just have them blow it out. I'd hate for them to attempt to pull it apart and have that spring jump off the plate, as it can be a bastard to get back on.

Well crap, I didn't take into consideration that the OP is most likely an end user.

To the OP, if you're an end user, don't take it apart!

[Bix]

It is anxious to know that you could lose the spring. One day I'll try to take it apart too, but so far I have implemented another technique. I always clean by removing the inner cover. If we are talking about the same sensor, after removing the cover the sensor is disassembled with 2-3 screws (it is located on the left while on the right there is the output sensor).
is it the same sensor?

[srvctec]

It is anxious to know that you could lose the spring. One day I'll try to take it apart too, but so far I have implemented another technique. I always clean by removing the inner cover. If we are talking about the same sensor, after removing the cover the sensor is disassembled with 2-3 screws (it is located on the left while on the right there is the output sensor).
is it the same sensor?

You can't lose the spring because it's attached to the ADF. It's sometimes difficult to grab it with needle-nose pliers or hemostats and place it back over the protrusion on the plate if you remove the plate completely. I've done this so many times, it's no big deal to just grab the spring and hook it back over the protrusion before screwing the plate back down.

Yes, it's the same sensor and the other way to it is from above but you have to remove 10 screws for the cover/guide (part #A3CEPP4408 in the parts manual) just to gain access to it which is why I usually go at it from underneath. If I'm really cleaning the ADF, I'll go from above and then clean all the rollers and sensors under that 10 screw cover/guide while I'm at it since I already have it off.

[blackcat4866]

The first time I took it out from the top. It is a lot of screws. I also noticed that particular guide can get significant paper cuts that can snag up your originals. But you do get a great view if the velvet pad below.
=^..^=

[femaster]

...but you have to remove 10 screws for the cover/guide (part #A3CEPP4408 in the parts manual) just to gain access to it...

Isn't that just a crazy number of screws considering what that plastic cover consists of!? Always thought that was a bit of overkill there. Especially on the DF-624, that plastic guide has 11 screws. Why!?

[srvctec]

Isn't that just a crazy number of screws considering what that plastic cover consists of!? Always thought that was a bit of overkill there. Especially on the DF-624, that plastic guide has 11 screws. Why!?

I'm pretty sure KM owns stock in screw manufacturers because in my almost 32 years of working on their stuff, that's one thing you can always count on- plenty of screws even when it seems totally unnecessary.

[Bix]

I'm pretty sure KM owns stock in screw manufacturers because in my almost 32 years of working on their stuff, that's one thing you can always count on- plenty of screws even when it seems totally unnecessary.

KM has always told me more screws = more solidity = less noise.
But with iSeries it's not the same thing anymore. They understood that perhaps those screws are not really needed.