Konica Minolta bizhub C360 - Paper Jam 11-01

[ferro10]

I have uploaded a video of the actual two paper pick ups I am talking about
Please see this and comment !
https://youtu.be/2u3UIhsaHBU

You see something sliping ? I don't.

pick up rollers are to be changed.
Clean the metal shaft surely the unidirectional clutches slip.

[HOSTAKI]

the unidirectional clutches slip.

That would be the number 11 on the parts diagram
Parts Catalog > Konica-Minolta > bizhub C280 > page 16

[ferro10]

That would be the number 11 on the parts diagram
Parts Catalog > Konica-Minolta > bizhub C280 > page 16

yes

[copyman]

The following is my personal POV and experience and in no way is intended to cause controversy with conflicting views from other members

Scuffing the shafts where the bearing ride is done the same direction as the shift from end to end.
Use a 3m scotch Brite or emery cloth just enough to get rid of the mirror finish.
I have never in 23 years heard of using oil on them as the last thing I want is lubrication where I need good grip by the needle bearings.
I don't understand why a lubricant is needed for grip. I scuff the shafts, soak the one-ways in IPA and clean with a rag and a blast with a can of air to dry.
Unless the shaft is worn enough that there is a noticeable 'divots where the bearings ride the method I use has worked literally thousands of times.
Scuffing the burnished shaft in the same direction the rollers turn also does not make sense to me as that will cause the needles to only ride the high spots of the surface instead of better lateral contact.

All you can do is listen to all the advices offered and make up your mind which way to go.
Trial and error will help you form a routine to handle procedures like this.

Short 'for instance'...

I recently watched another tech starting to remove a fuser to replace a t-belt on a 4 series. I laughed out loud. He said it's the only way the belt will come out. I then showed him the 1 stupid screw on the upper guide plate on the t-belt. Removed guide and now the belt comes in and out without obstruction or extra work removing the fuser.

Now it's the only way he does it.
But he had to perform it both ways and made his decision to try it the less laborious way and it all worked out
Good luck and happy trials

This has been discussed several times on this forum and I agree with you 100% and have done the same thing for many years with scuffing the shaft from end to end direction, cleaning one ways with alcohol & blowing out with canned air. Think I recently posted this was told to me at Kon/Min school many years ago. I posted it after some discussion about scuffing "around" the shaft. Also NO lube!
If you are still getting "misfeeds" with new PF rollers, take out the PF unit and clean one ways & scuff shafts properly, it works!

[Oystercopy]

Just my 2 cents, but..

Almost never have had to replace worn shafts, except back in the 80s on Panasonic feeders.

On the newer machines, like KM, the shafts are a stronger steel, and don't wear down to the point they require replacement.
However, using scotch brite (or other abrasive) to wear down the shiny part of the shaft is the only thing I would ever consider doing any more. In fact, the KM machines are built so well that
I almost NEVER have an issue with one way bearings on these boxes whatsoever.

But if you're going to take the time to service them, just getting the gloss worn down on the shafts is all you really need to do. And I don't put lube on them, to be sure. I believe this would complicate the
needle bearing's ability to grip and release the shaft the way they should. But referencing the old Panasonics again, on those boxes you could physically SEE the area under the bearing actually WORN DOWN to
the point where shaft replacement was required. Now, on those bearings, we did pack them with grease, because the theory was that the wear factor on the shafts would be too great, so we needed something to
"push" the needles more towards the shaft, so that they would have better gripping capability, and that seemed to work, especially if you didn't have new shafts and bearings in your car stock at the time.

Hope this helps someone!
OC

[copyman]

Just my 2 cents, but..

Almost never have had to replace worn shafts, except back in the 80s on Panasonic feeders.

On the newer machines, like KM, the shafts are a stronger steel, and don't wear down to the point they require replacement.
However, using scotch brite (or other abrasive) to wear down the shiny part of the shaft is the only thing I would ever consider doing any more. In fact, the KM machines are built so well that
I almost NEVER have an issue with one way bearings on these boxes whatsoever.

But if you're going to take the time to service them, just getting the gloss worn down on the shafts is all you really need to do. And I don't put lube on them, to be sure. I believe this would complicate the
needle bearing's ability to grip and release the shaft the way they should. But referencing the old Panasonics again, on those boxes you could physically SEE the area under the bearing actually WORN DOWN to
the point where shaft replacement was required. Now, on those bearings, we did pack them with grease, because the theory was that the wear factor on the shafts would be too great, so we needed something to
"push" the needles more towards the shaft, so that they would have better gripping capability, and that seemed to work, especially if you didn't have new shafts and bearings in your car stock at the time.

Hope this helps someone!
OC

Agree about the newer Kon/Min one ways not needing as much attention like some models in the past. Can't tell you how many times I've cleaned the one ways on the BizHub C203 series, definitely 100's of times back in the day when these were in service! Seems like every call I was cleaning the one ways, or for a long time was replacing the one ways. And it sucked on that model to get the PF units out, i.e. taking off manual feed tray etc etc. Much easier on the newer models.

Then a friend from Kon/Min told me he has "never" replaced the one ways so from that day on I've only replaced a few, cleaning & scuffing has always worked.