Olivetti d-color mf2613en back door switch

[pointysticks]

Hello, new here, seeking help with donated copier.

Disclosure - i'm not a printer/copier tech, but techy in general and with some electronics background (CNC/CO2 lasers, diy RC/racing drones etc.)

Got donated previously working Olivetti d-color MF2613 which throws "close back door 1" error upon power on. Checked out for obvious jams, dirt in switches, missing tabs, etc - everything checks out. Tried poking the plastic switch plate with a screwdriver - no click (there should be one if mechanical micro, or might be just an optical/IR interrupter) and no change in status screen.

Are there any other things i should try before i dear into it for switch replacement ? Cant even see the switch, its covered in plastic otherwise...

I'd like to get it running again, as i have plenty of toner for it and dont mind going elbows deep into it.

[GIUBOSS]

try to open all the ports, also check the cartridges if properly locked ...

[pointysticks]

From what i understand this olivetti has other branding on it. What are the same printers but rebadged ?

[pointysticks]

Is Olivetti mf2613 and Kyocera FS-2626 identical in construction ? They look identical.

I checked and re-inserted all the carts, all the doors, anything that will open. No change in "back cover open" situation.
Found service manual for mf2613plus, looks identical to mine (minor details). Started taking covers off to try to get to the back cover switch. Is the switch even accessible if i take off the shielded pcb thats covering it ?



Looked at some kyocera forums that mentions something some tooth skipping in there that prevents switch to be completely closed. It was suggested to just short the switch to make problem go away. Provided i can get to it without destroying the rest of the printer in the process...

Grasping in the dark, but its fun, as the printer is free if i can get it to run....

[pointysticks]

I think i found a problem. Interlock switch under high voltage PCB. It looks like it is just not pressed mechanically. The arm that extends to the back plate/tab moves, but the micro switch is not being triggered. Its a mechanical microswitch. According to schematics its 24V interlock switch that goes into main power supply.

Two photos illustrate the problem: pic1 not pressed, pic 2 pressed (pressing tab point at the back with a screwdriver).




Checked switch itself, its clicky and switches ok, continuity checks out when pressed down.

I was assuming it had to be some sort of logic switch (optical interruptor or some such low voltage thing) not straight up 24V directly from power supply. Wires from the switch go straight to power supply box underneath.



Should i just jump it ? Can it be that absence of 24V is detected as back cover open ?

[pointysticks]

Copier confirmed alive. Lolipop sticks (waste door) and spring clamps (interlock switch) is how you fix office equipment. I guess interlock switch either has to live on the outside or just jump the bloody thing... Wires out anyway.

The switch actuator is flopping about inside, something is definitely broken in there, but for absence of (and refusal to pay for) proper parts i'm not digging any deeper to figure this out to its "proper" conclusion. Hope this (near)monologue of a thread helps somebody else in the future...

Now to figure out how to put all the panels back on in civilised manner (taking them off was anything but...)...