how much is too much in adjusting fuser temp on a MPC3503

[fshead]

greetings all.
I ve been out of the loop for a almost a year due to some health issues which now are taken care of.
I finally rebuilt 3 mpc2503,mpc3503 and mpc4503 fuser units with aftermarket fuser sleeve,greese and cotton felt inside sleeve..
I have an account in a humid basement that seems to need more heat to fuse as paper picks up moisture..
Normal paper temp settings seem to be 118 so i felt 125 degrees is safe but if making it a bit higher and getting shorter life of sleeve i am ok with..
Still dont know if the parts i bought are as good as i am told.
MY vendor i have bought many other items that worked out and i did drill the fact i want Japanese compatable sleeve,greese and inside cotton felt.
Also do you need that metal heat shield inside fuser sleeve..its a pain lining the ends up..And if it just to saw some electricity ,how much can it save?
thanks

[slimslob]

You're going after the problem from the wrong direction. You need to be getting rid of the moisture in the paper before it gets to the fusing unit. You need to try to get the anti-condensation heater(s) for paper trays. THey are in the parts catalog in the Heater section.

[Oze]

Slim is right.
You'd be better off schooling the users on correct paper handling BEFORE adjusting fuser temps.
Especially on an '03 model.
If you go too high with the fuser temps and the paper is still damp the excess heat will curl the paper and your next few calls will be for jamming.
An A3 plastic tub with a lid....toss in some silicon bags and make sure the users are rotating the damp paper out.
Make them take some responsibility for their rotten environment.

[emiliorsg]

I think the same as my colleagues. If you have humidity problems, it is best to use heaters or another method to eliminate it. Increasing the temperature of the fuser I have never liked in color machines, it will reduce the life of the fuser sleeve. Another test you can do is to set the paper cassette to thick 1 and see if that doesn't give you the error and how the paper comes out curled.

[blackcat4866]

Agreed. I prefer to run MFP's same or slightly cooler than factory specs. In most cases, adjusting fuser temperature causes more problems than it solves, and will definitely not improve a humidity issue.

A room dehumidifier may help control the humidity. =^..^=

[fshead]

thanks for all the replies.
This account is sales people who refuse any insight or info.mr know it ALLS...
Maybe that is why they are in sales..
I cant get them to call me when the machine needs toner till it stops and becomes a crisis.
Nor will they load fresh paper or try to keep the unused paper in its wrapper till needed..
If it wasnt for their other locations i would bail out.
But after going thru this machine it seems to randomly not fuse properly,new sleeve and felt and pressure roller
with very low meter.
I will swap out a 2nd fuser but i dont know if the machine does not provide the needed heat settings..
I remember in the past you could make the machine cycle before it runs a print job.
is that a setting available on the 03s?

[Gift]

Sometimes it helps to ad +5 - 10 degrees celsius or for 80g paper just choose "middle thick".

I tried to refurb a sleeve unit once and tossed everything in the bin during the reassembling process.

[fshead]

Sometimes it helps to ad +5 - 10 degrees celsius or for 80g paper just choose "middle thick".

I tried to refurb a sleeve unit once and tossed everything in the bin during the reassembling process.

What I was trying to understand is aT NORMAL TEMP 118 which to me is very low on copier fusing norm.
I ended up swapping out entire fuser with a 2nd rebuilt unit and that too i boosted the warm up temps 10 to 15 degrees.
Paper does not come out hot but does seem to fuse ok ...so far...
AS for changing out fuser sleeve and the cotton felt with 24 small screws YES it can be a PITA..................
I took the task like having to go for root canal where i just said i am spending the rest of this day getting this done..
First time i put it all back and the lamp shutter was not aligned front to back..Did not see it till all put together so tear down again..
After slowing down it aLL CAME TOGETHER BUT STILL A SHITTY DESIGN WHEN I grew up changing fuser sleeves on old HP printers that took maybe 30 mins total..
I cant justify paying over $200 for a ricoh sleeve assembly..

[slimslob]

What I was trying to understand is aT NORMAL TEMP 118 which to me is very low on copier fusing norm.
I ended up swapping out entire fuser with a 2nd rebuilt unit and that too i boosted the warm up temps 10 to 15 degrees.
Paper does not come out hot but does seem to fuse ok ...so far...
AS for changing out fuser sleeve and the cotton felt with 24 small screws YES it can be a PITA..................
I took the task like having to go for root canal where i just said i am spending the rest of this day getting this done..
First time i put it all back and the lamp shutter was not aligned front to back..Did not see it till all put together so tear down again..
After slowing down it aLL CAME TOGETHER BUT STILL A SHITTY DESIGN WHEN I grew up changing fuser sleeves on old HP printers that took maybe 30 mins total..
I cant justify paying over $200 for a ricoh sleeve assembly..

The 118 temperature is for B/W on the 20 to 35 ppm models. And the proper temperature for the paper type is critical. Too cold and it won't fuse, too hot and the toner will adhere to the fusing sleeve.

[luca72]

greetings all.
I ve been out of the loop for a almost a year due to some health issues which now are taken care of.
I finally rebuilt 3 mpc2503,mpc3503 and mpc4503 fuser units with aftermarket fuser sleeve,greese and cotton felt inside sleeve..
I have an account in a humid basement that seems to need more heat to fuse as paper picks up moisture..
Normal paper temp settings seem to be 118 so i felt 125 degrees is safe but if making it a bit higher and getting shorter life of sleeve i am ok with..
Still dont know if the parts i bought are as good as i am told.
MY vendor i have bought many other items that worked out and i did drill the fact i want Japanese compatable sleeve,greese and inside cotton felt.
Also do you need that metal heat shield inside fuser sleeve..its a pain lining the ends up..And if it just to saw some electricity ,how much can it save?
thanks

hi Fshead, I'm glad you recovered
I often rebuild that type of fuser, normally, if everything is ok, it is not necessary to increase or decrease the fuser temperature from sp, at most change the paper thickness, and/or the type of job in the driver (from speed to quality)
I would advise you on here models to change the thermistor and the pressure roller, which I have noticed that in that contact area it tends to get scratched, and reads the temperature badly.