install a line monitor and see what the supply power is doing.
You have made an assumption that I try to avoid.
I always listen to what the enduser has to say, and ask additional questions, but I only give that information credence if I can independently confirm it. It's not they're trying to deceive you (Ok, sometimes they do try to deceive you), but often endusers are not very good observers.
Yes it would be a good time to pull out the power quality analyzer, but I doubt that you'll find anything exciting. In my humble opinion, there is most likely some sort of internal short frying your power supplies. =^..^=
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
I'm a tad confused ?... (de'ja' vu)
I always thought the domestic USA power grid was 110v.
Does the USA "domestic" power grid have dual 110 and 220 voltage single phase systems ?
Do you guys have two different voltage power points wired into your homes or offices ?
How does a 110v photocopier get plugged into a 220v power point ?
Here in OZ we have only one domestic source of 240v single phase into all homes and offices.
All medium to heavy industry voltage source steps up from there with 415v 3 phase.
You can not plug anything by accident into 415v because the plug an socket is the size of a can of Coke, with a 4 pin male an female key-way socket.
Interesting how that happened.....
Inauguration to the "AI cancel-culture" fraternity 1997...
•••••• •••[§]• |N | € | o | M | Δ | t | π | ¡ | x | •[§]••• ••••••
Yes we do have 2 incomeing 110 line to our homes.Here in the states we have both 110 and 220 volt lines. 110 is for basic things (copiers-tvs-etc.) 220 volt is used for heavier needs (air conditioners ,bigger copiers, dryers etc.) 220 is just a 2 pole breaker with 2 110 volt lines leading to the outlet. There are many different amps. That is a very basic description but that is what we use.
I was going to suggest that you check the outlet with a VOM to look for that, but I thought it was too remote a possibility.
I had a client install a dedicated outlet for a Sharp SF-741 (I'm dating myself here), and call me because the fans were running loud. Everything else worked. I found 208VAC at the outlet. They called the electrician and put him on the phone with me; he said "Oh, oh, I know what I did wrong!" like it was a quiz or something.
After he straightens out the wiring, they plug the machine in, and everything is back to normal.
They don't build them like that anymore.
I am surprised that someone that doesn't know what they are doing, didn't fry themselves when making the connections (must have at least turned the breaker off?).
"You can't trust your eyes, if your mind is out of focus" --
I do believe it. On new setups I always check the outlet. I found a 220V 20A wired in a most interesting way:
120V hot1 to neutral
120V hot2 to neutral
0V hot1 to hot2
Both hot leads were off the same leg of the breaker box. Sorry, that's not 220VAC.
Good luck. =^..^=
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
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