Sharp MX-4111N Ghost Printing

[Bval]

Check to see if the Transport Auger is rotating. Check gears , drives and the waste toner discharge port to see if they are clear/ opening. Something there is not taking the waste toner away thus building up and passing by leaving it smeared on the belt.

I have verified everything rotates well, pulled that entire side off blew it out with some canned air and made sure the discharge port opens and closes freely with no obstructions. Put it all back together and in the machine but haven't tried a test print yet. The waste tank was pretty full when I got it, I dumped it bit did not replace it, wouldn't think that would cause this bad of an issue but I do know they are supposed to be replaced not just emptied.

I think my issue may have been my stupidity, not giving it enough time to dry after cleaning. When I wiped the transfer belt cleaning blade off there was a hardened line of toner across the entire blade with high and low spots. Took about 30 minutes of light cleaning with alcohol to finally break it all off and be back to a nice clean rubber blade. I'll test print here shortly. Also found a couple full transfer belt units for a decent price on ebay if needed.

[Bval]

That did not change anything still streaking on blank page prints and popping up the C4-20 code after a print.

[ron67601]

C4-20 also means drum blade is flipped. You might have multiple drum blades that are flipped. I would ask the question how long this machine has set without being used. The environment destroys components that need periodic replacement. You better dismantle the machine and check everything. Good Luck

[Bval]

C4-20 also means drum blade is flipped. You might have multiple drum blades that are flipped. I would ask the question how long this machine has set without being used. The environment destroys components that need periodic replacement. You better dismantle the machine and check everything. Good Luck

I had seen that on other posts regarding the code but I've pulled all drums and checked out the cleaning blades and see no issue though I'm not exactly positive what a flipped blade would look like. Not certain on how long it was sitting, a day after I got it the original problem was fixed and it was in use. The previous owner used it daily until the code he had caused him to sell but not sure how long it was posted before I picked it up.

I noticed some lettering from a previous print stuck on the belt that will not come off with cleaning just now as well, so if I can figure out the code I'll probably still need the transfer belt unit but will wait on figuring out the code before spending the money. If I can get it to print again even streaky was adequate for the short term.

[Bval]

C4-20 code is gone, I didn't fully clip in the back cover on the black drum after checking the blade apparently. It will now print again but still streaking on plain paper and ghosting on text prints. Back to either transfer belt or fuser it seems.

Is there any way to rule one out before I start throwing money at it?

[bilyahn]

Do what we call an emergency stop (start making multiple copies then open side door in the middle of the process) you should be able to see if there is a latent image on the belt or if it is clean and you can start eliminating components from there.

Good luck

Bil

[Bval]

Do what we call an emergency stop (start making multiple copies then open side door in the middle of the process) you should be able to see if there is a latent image on the belt or if it is clean and you can start eliminating components from there.

Good luck

Bil

There is latent images on the transfer belt, so guess that would mean grab the transfer belt unit first and hope that's the only thing

[Bval]

Finally got new transfer belt in and still have the same issue so I guess that means fuser issue.

[Munter]

This could be the fusing web has dried out and/or not advancing adequately, or it has stalled completely. If you're going to strip the web assy I'd recommend taking lots of photos, before you start, and from many angles if you've never done this before. Make special note of where the web end sensor arm lies in relation to the web. Teaching grandma to suck eggs time ... Always remember that the thick part of the new web goes where the thin part of the old web was.

[Bval]

I'll keep that in mind once I order the kit, appreciate the information