Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    Senior Tech 250+ Posts
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    390
    Rep Power
    20

    Toshiba estudio 305 SE main drive unit or parts needed

    Hello everyone, i hope you are all doing good under the situations.


    i have a this call where the drum isnt turning and the paper folds up under the drum. the registration roller is turning.


    i disassembled the main drive unit and it looked good.
    i forgot that i was looking at the drum drive not reg roller drive.


    i didnt notice anythng damaged, but after putting it back, relize that the flywheel isnt turning, so no drum drive. thought it was before. maybe i also caused a problem??



    anyhow, i see that the drive unit isnt listed as an assembly in the prts book.


    so now i am looking at the pully on the shaft, and i am not finding it.


    part number is 6LH53709000.


    i supose i need to go back and see what is actually not connecting. from the drawing, it looks like the pully pin is part of the shaft. and the drum is easy to turn, so i cant see it breaking the pulley slot?


    if anyone has delt with this uit,or may have the pulley for sale, let me know.


    thank you very much, and be safe.

    Jim

  2. #2
    Master Of The Obvious 10,000+ Posts
    Toshiba estudio 305 SE main drive unit or parts needed

    blackcat4866's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Lapeer, Michigan
    Posts
    18,249
    Rep Power
    313

    Re: Toshiba estudio 305 SE main drive unit or parts needed

    Three very common items are:

    The roll pin that attaches the timing pulley to the shaft with the fly wheel .. the pin shears off on both sides of the shaft. I made a very simple press to drive out the remaining stub. It's not so easy to get out. And I bought higher tensile strength roll pins so they don't break.

    Shear Pin.JPGPin Press3.JPGTool version 2-2.JPG

    The timing belt can fray to the point of shredding.

    The helical gear/shaft of the main motor will wear to the point of stripping that motor gear. Usually though you get a very loud buzzing noise accompanying it.

    If you see any of these things, very likely the shaft with the flywheel is gummed to the bronze bushings with that heavy black grease. Clean all that black grease off and use Triflow, or any light oil.

    Yes, you've got some investigating to do. =^..^=
    If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
    1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
    2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
    3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
    4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
    5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.

    blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=

  3. #3
    Senior Tech 250+ Posts
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    390
    Rep Power
    20

    Re: Toshiba estudio 305 SE main drive unit or parts needed

    Quote Originally Posted by blackcat4866 View Post
    Three very common items are:

    The roll pin that attaches the timing pulley to the shaft with the fly wheel .. the pin shears off on both sides of the shaft. I made a very simple press to drive out the remaining stub. It's not so easy to get out. And I bought higher tensile strength roll pins so they don't break.

    Shear Pin.JPGPin Press3.JPGTool version 2-2.JPG

    The timing belt can fray to the point of shredding.

    The helical gear/shaft of the main motor will wear to the point of stripping that motor gear. Usually though you get a very loud buzzing noise accompanying it.

    If you see any of these things, very likely the shaft with the flywheel is gummed to the bronze bushings with that heavy black grease. Clean all that black grease off and use Triflow, or any light oil.

    Yes, you've got some investigating to do. =^..^=

    Oh man Blackcat4866, thank you so much for that.

    I can't fathom a metal pin shearing of before it breaks the plastic.

    I used to drive the pins out with a? 1/16 or 3/32 round punch and a small mini ballpeen hammer on old stuff right at the costumers office.

    Sometimes we had to to replace a part.

    Anyway, I really appreciate your advice.
    I'll go back tomorrow and get the correct low down at the hoedown.


    I hope your have a very nice evening,
    Sincerely, Jim

  4. #4
    Senior Tech 250+ Posts
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    390
    Rep Power
    20

    Re: Toshiba estudio 305 SE main drive unit or parts needed

    Good morning blackcat4866, yesterday your pictures didnt come up on my phone.

    i am now seeing your amazing pin setting jig you made. very impressive.


    your a true professional technician, and i feel like i am just a machine butcher after seeing that.

    man, im impressed at your vision and product design. i am not sure if you start the pin into the shaft, and then start threading the bolt to press it in?


    i am wondering what i will use for the replacvement pin if this one is actually broken, and the large assortment of pins from the years and also new one i have on hand dont fit.


    anyway, not sure i can build one of theose and still be at the customers in an hour and a half?


    but i will definetely post a update to what i find.


    have a great day, Jim.

  5. #5
    Master Of The Obvious 10,000+ Posts
    Toshiba estudio 305 SE main drive unit or parts needed

    blackcat4866's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Lapeer, Michigan
    Posts
    18,249
    Rep Power
    313

    Re: Toshiba estudio 305 SE main drive unit or parts needed

    That tool changed a few times ... the one at the right is the final version.

    The left side has a 2.5mm depression to hold the pin while driving.
    The right side is a 2.5mm drill shank set in the drive bolt, to press out the pin.
    The new pin can be used to press out the old piece, I've done it both ways.
    The threaded block has a neat cutout to allow the pressed pin to slide out of the tool.

    The pin is 2.5mm x 14mm (Spirol part number: SLTP 2.5x14 BK ISO8752), purchased online from Rockford Commercial Warehouse, Machesney Park, IL 61115
    It's a relatively standard size. I've cut off the shank of a 2.5mm drill as a replacement pin, in a pinch. It doesn't have to be tight, just has to be there.
    =^..^=
    If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
    1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
    2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
    3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
    4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
    5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.

    blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=

  6. #6
    Senior Tech 250+ Posts
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    390
    Rep Power
    20

    Re: Toshiba estudio 305 SE main drive unit or parts needed

    Hey Brother, i got busy today and didn't get a chance to get back to you.


    so, as expected, i took the drive unit back out and looked close and your right.
    that thin roll pin was in 3 pieces, i only found two.


    i used to have some similar, but i used a solid pin from some other application that slides into the hole.
    i actually tried the ones i had, and even several different small nails or brads that i was going to use.


    the pin i used was a little loose, but it worked fine.


    i wonder if the single layer roll pin was designed to break if there was a bind in the drum unit, like a reversed blade?


    but then, instead of replacing the drum unit, you have to pull the drum drive shaft.


    anyway, since my main vendor showed a 10 day wait on the shaft, meaning, it may be obsolete.
    i also found the shaft on another site, but 45 dollars and more down time.

    so, i just did what we do, and got it back up.


    the strange thing i ran into when diagnosing this was , the drum flywheel was turning the one time i looked at it, and the drum did rotate some when i was trying to figure out what the cause of the jams was. i guess the broken pin was still grabbing a little and turning some, but not contentiously?


    and i guess that threw me off. even tough i then had the drive unit out, i didn't look close enough thinking i was looking for damaged gear.


    any way, thank you so much for the help and assistance.


    I wanted to ask, that last picture on the right of your pin press, that must have been a pain to machine that butterfly hole in that bold stock.


    did you do that on a drill press, starting with the two small holes, and then the large center??


    the whole concept is like the anarchists cook book for machine repair.


    have a great evening, and be safe.


    Jim

  7. #7
    Master Of The Obvious 10,000+ Posts
    Toshiba estudio 305 SE main drive unit or parts needed

    blackcat4866's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Lapeer, Michigan
    Posts
    18,249
    Rep Power
    313

    Re: Toshiba estudio 305 SE main drive unit or parts needed

    Quote Originally Posted by tonerjockey View Post
    ... the pin i used was a little loose, but it worked fine...
    Yeah, the 2.5mm drill shank is still in use ... somewhere. Same deal.

    Quote Originally Posted by tonerjockey View Post
    ... I wonder if the single layer roll pin was designed to break if there was a bind in the drum unit, like a reversed blade?

    but then, instead of replacing the drum unit, you have to pull the drum drive shaft...
    That would only make sense if Toshiba wanted to preserve the drum drive timing pulley. More likely, they underestimated torque on that shaft, or the black grease turning into glue.

    Quote Originally Posted by tonerjockey View Post
    ... so, i just did what we do, and got it back up...
    A tech after my own heart : practical first.

    Quote Originally Posted by tonerjockey View Post
    ... the strange thing i ran into when diagnosing this was, the drum flywheel was turning the one time i looked at it, and the drum did rotate some when i was trying to figure out what the cause of the jams was. i guess the broken pin was still grabbing a little and turning some, but not continuously?

    and i guess that threw me off. even tough i then had the drive unit out, i didn't look close enough thinking i was looking for damaged gear...
    Mainly you'll get E010 Z-fold jams at the drum. The quick diagnosis is to open the right door and rotate the drum with your thumb. If it turns, it's one of the three things we talked about. If it doesn't turn, you've ruled it out.

    Often there's enough tension on the belt, and friction on the shaft, to continue turning.

    Quote Originally Posted by tonerjockey View Post
    ... I wanted to ask, that last picture on the right of your pin press, that must have been a pain to machine that butterfly hole in that bold stock.

    did you do that on a drill press, starting with the two small holes, and then the large center?? ...
    I drilled the center hole on the drill press, slightly small, then used a rat-tail file to open up the hole, and make it square with the threaded sleeve. I used the pin press to remove stubs several times before realizing that I could also use it for inserting pins also. It was going to be problematic though, to separate the pin-press from the shaft with a pin through it.

    I drilled a 2mm hole on each side of the large hole, all the way through, then used diamond jewelers files to open out the slot, until a shaft with pin would pass all the way through.

    The other reason I made this tool was watching another tech with punch and hammer bend the shaft, then try to explain to me that it doesn't really matter if it's bent. (It really does matter)

    It's 1/2" 20 threaded rod and hex sleeve.
    Item # 51759, CLDP 2.5 X 14. HCK On SPIROL

    Congratulations. =^..^=
    If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
    1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
    2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
    3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
    4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
    5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.

    blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=

  8. #8
    Senior Tech 250+ Posts
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    390
    Rep Power
    20

    Re: Toshiba estudio 305 SE main drive unit or parts needed

    wow, that is some amazing craftsmanship blackcat4866.
    i am really impressed at your creative prowess and ingenuity.


    and like you said, this will allow the insertion and removal of the pin.

    i was thinking that a simpler option to your jig machines oval cutout, might be to cut a hook like shape off the side on the threaded nut stock, (if the steel is not from china), or angled, so it could be cut with a hacksaw. this way, you can set the shaft in the opening, and it will stay in the V groove, and then after, just retract the press bolt and pull the shaft up and out.


    but, you got a great tool. patentable i would think.


    and thank you for explaining the other quandaries that i also had on my rambling post.


    hope you are doing good, and have a safe evening, followed by plenty of work if you want it.


    Jim

  9. #9
    Master Of The Obvious 10,000+ Posts
    Toshiba estudio 305 SE main drive unit or parts needed

    blackcat4866's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Lapeer, Michigan
    Posts
    18,249
    Rep Power
    313

    Re: Toshiba estudio 305 SE main drive unit or parts needed

    Quote Originally Posted by tonerjockey View Post
    ... I was thinking that a simpler option to your jig machines oval cutout, might be to cut a hook like shape off the side on the threaded nut stock, (if the steel is not from china), or angled, so it could be cut with a hacksaw. this way, you can set the shaft in the opening, and it will stay in the V groove, and then after, just retract the press bolt and pull the shaft up and out...
    Both the hex nut and bolt are soft steel, making it easy to manufacture. Harder material would complicate the manufacture. With one side fully cutout the softer steel would require some case-hardening. I have had some success with making and hardening spring hooks, but I haven't tried hardening something that thick/large.

    Just my thoughts. Post a photo of your version. =^..^=
    If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
    1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
    2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
    3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
    4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
    5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.

    blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=

  10. #10
    Senior Tech 250+ Posts
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    390
    Rep Power
    20

    Re: Toshiba estudio 305 SE main drive unit or parts needed

    Good morning.
    and my limited experience in hardening steel, both with heat, and quench, to case hardening with carbon, i think that what ever steel you quality steel you start with limits the ultimate outcome.

    another words, if you start with a low grade, mild steel, trying to make it like a hardened steel, is futile. just what i experienced. i think its just adding to what ever was originally there some.


    but your right, your idea leaves no possibility of deflection from over use.


    have a great day, Jim

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Get the Android App
click or scan for the Copytechnet Mobile App

-= -= -= -= -=


IDrive Remote Backup

Lunarpages Internet Solutions

Advertise on Copytechnet

Your Link Here