8508A, pops building circuit breaker

**Rusty.Harris** · 04-16-2021

Went with another tech on this one. Said the machine has had a C471, thermal fuse popped.
Swapped it with a new fuser. The minute he powered it up, even before the display came on
the machine went dead. Circuit breaker popped. Machine is on a dedicated outlet. Reset
the breaker, left the ADU door open, powered up the machine until the close door popped up.
Minute he closed the ADU, it popped the breaker again. Pulled the fuser, left it out, powered
it up again. Came up to the "insert fuser" message obviously. opened the ADU, inserted a
fuser, closed the door, blew the circuit breaker again. Swapped the fuser with a known good
one from a machine down the hall, same issue.
Plugged in my Sure-test...AC line ok, voltage drop @ 20a was 2.7 volts. N-G was only .2 under
no load. Hooked up an ESP surge protector, monitored the voltage on my laptop, everything
looked good. Pulled the back cover & IH cover. From frame ground to the output of the IH board,
no continuity. From the input AC side of the IH board to frame ground, no continuity. From the
input to the output of the IH board, no continuity. It was almost like the building, had a GFI breaker
and there was a bit of leakage somewhere that was tripping the breaker.
I told him the only thing I could think of was the IH board.
He called me back an hour later said that fixed. I still don't know why it was popping the building
breaker, without any fuses on the machine side popping.

Thought I'd pass it along.

**blackcat4866** · 04-16-2021

Thanks for sharing.

This device might have helped you (sorry, I cannot locate a picture). It shows momentary voltage and current draw. Very few people take the results of my Fluke seriously, but when they see 32A draw on a 20A circuit ... yes, that's a serious thing. I started making these things when I started using the Fluke PQA. The Fluke has a C14 connector and a variety of adapters ... but a lot of MFPs (especially larger ones) have only one outlet available, so the Fluke needs to be in-line with the MFP.

It's basically a recycled surge suppressor with a C13 connector (to accept the C14 on the Fluke), and a combination volt/amp meter fitted into the box. I've made up variations 120V/15A, 120V/20A. 208V/20A, 208V/30A (the standard power combinations in the US).

One very memorable moment: I plugged in the 208V/30A box (installing a bizhub 3070L), and discovered that they'd wired the outlet for 440V! The meter is good up to 500VAC, and I'm really glad I didn't just plug it in and smoke the machine.

Photos later.

**SalesServiceGuy** · 04-16-2021

Get a Tripp Lite LC2400 20 AMP line conditioner. If the Tripp Lite starts beeping all of the time, it is conditioning dirty power. Occasional beeps OK. If beeping, demonstrate to customer and explain they must buy it. Approx $300.00 . Solves many funky power and copier issues.

Always have both a LC1800 (15 AMP) and a LC2400 (20 AMP) in stock.

**Rusty.Harris** · 04-16-2021

I'm kind of "old school"...I cut my teeth using old school textronics O-scopes. I've thought about the newer digital ones
but haven't felt the urge to get one yet.
I use to use the o-scope like a volt meter when I worked on television sets in the late 70's.

Originally Posted by blackcat4866

Thanks for sharing.

This device might have helped you (sorry, I cannot locate a picture). It shows momentary voltage and current draw. Very few people take the results of my Fluke seriously, but when they see 32A draw on a 20A circuit ... yes, that's a serious thing. I started making these things when I started using the Fluke PQA. The Fluke has a C14 connector and a variety of adapters ... but a lot of MFPs (especially larger ones) have only one outlet available, so the Fluke needs to be in-line with the MFP.

It's basically a recycled surge suppressor with a C13 connector (to accept the C14 on the Fluke), and a combination volt/amp meter fitted into the box. I've made up variations 120V/15A, 120V/20A. 208V/20A, 208V/30A (the standard power combinations in the US).

One very memorable moment: I plugged in the 208V/30A box (installing a bizhub 3070L), and discovered that they'd wired the outlet for 440V! The meter is good up to 500VAC, and I'm really glad I didn't just plug it in and smoke the machine.

Photos later.

**djbass** · 05-01-2021

I've had something similar where the IH coil was faulty due to breakdown of the insulation on the windings.

**blackcat4866** · 05-01-2021

On the same theme, I had an enduser last week telling me that the bizhub C458e was drawing too much power. It's rated for 12A, and never draws more than 10.84A. If something is blowing the breaker this ain't it.

20A in-line box.jpg

=^..^=

**Rusty.Harris** · 05-03-2021

Another tech called me Thursday, had the same issue popping the breaker. Told him to replace the IH
board. Fixed it! That's 2 in a month.

**tuanhungphoto** · 06-15-2021

Originally Posted by Rusty.Harris

Went with another tech on this one. Said the machine has had a C471, thermal fuse popped.
Swapped it with a new fuser. The minute he powered it up, even before the display came on
the machine went dead. Circuit breaker popped. Machine is on a dedicated outlet. Reset
the breaker, left the ADU door open, powered up the machine until the close door popped up.
Minute he closed the ADU, it popped the breaker again. Pulled the fuser, left it out, powered
it up again. Came up to the "insert fuser" message obviously. opened the ADU, inserted a
fuser, closed the door, blew the circuit breaker again. Swapped the fuser with a known good
one from a machine down the hall, same issue.
Plugged in my Sure-test...AC line ok, voltage drop @ 20a was 2.7 volts. N-G was only .2 under
no load. Hooked up an ESP surge protector, monitored the voltage on my laptop, everything
looked good. Pulled the back cover & IH cover. From frame ground to the output of the IH board,
no continuity. From the input AC side of the IH board to frame ground, no continuity. From the
input to the output of the IH board, no continuity. It was almost like the building, had a GFI breaker
and there was a bit of leakage somewhere that was tripping the breaker.
I told him the only thing I could think of was the IH board.
He called me back an hour later said that fixed. I still don't know why it was popping the building
breaker, without any fuses on the machine side popping.

Thought I'd pass it along.

for me this error handling is very simple. If you want it not to fail, turn off the thermal fuse in the drying bag.