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I don't work on Toshiba much, but found it interesting that the magenta and cyan developer seems to be spewing carrier out of it's housing, (rear gear area and left side chamber through the seam). I need to definitely replace carrier but was questioning to replace all four assemblies, or top DV covers as well.
Any feedback on this?
Is this a sign all 4 may be going bad?
Do you change all 4 units at this point?
Dev CLR only 30k each, with a drive count of 400k
Last edited by buzz; 05-10-2022 at 02:15 AM.
The developer auger shafts, seals, bearings, and gears do fail. Just doing a simple developer change is a very short term fix.
You can rebuild those developing units, that's what we did. You can also buy whole developing units, but they're quite expensive. Two of the units failing is not a predictor of failure of the other developing units. If there isn't any developer or toner in the gears on the back of the developing unit, wait until they fail.
When you empty those developing units, it's important to open the the air duct under the mag roller, remove the toner sensor, vacuum out the developer housing duct (and the rest of the developing unit), and knock the teaspoon or so of developer out of the toner sensor (never vacuum the toner sensor). The developer collected in the toner sensor will throw off your toner density readings. Should you decide to buy developing units or rebuild, the developer is not included. It must be ordered separately. If you want a parts list for the rebuild, let me know. =^..^=
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
Originally Posted by b[ATTACH=CONFIG
As always, thank you so much for the extensive feedback and tips, very much appreciated. I'll probably do a minimum rebuild with new carrier and see how it fares. Precision has each color at $1700 a pop. 😬 Yikes
Rebuild developing unit:
auger (6LK48904000)
auger (6LK48956000)
bearings ([4] F0-01959000)
seals ([4] 4401949290)
gear 29T/coupler (6LK48906000)
Gear 29 (6LK48905000)
Gear 42 (6LK48908000)
Mag Roller Gear (6LJ54058000)
D-FC505K (6LK49016300).
If you just replace the developer I'll give it 4 weeks before the issue returns. =^..^=
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
One other thing...it's kind of a sore spot with me. The "oil seals" 4401949290,
that part number dates all the way back to the 80's. (most parts now start with 6Lxxxxxxx)
Up until the newest machines, the SOP was to add Alvania #2 grease with the amount being
"two grains of rice" to keep the seals lubricated.
We notice a LOT of developer failures with developer leaking out of the back of the developer
units, but, only in the winter, when the humidity gets very low due to the cold weather, and
for some reason, people turn on their heaters to stay warm. In the spring/summer/fall it's not
too bad, because we live in an area where the humidity is pretty high. So, when we started
having issues, when I would rebuild them, I put the grease back into the seals. Guess what?
Our developer leakage problems STOPPED!
Amazing! The seals don't dry out, become brittle and allow the developer to leak past the OIL
seals.
It's up to you, but we put it back in, because it's the same part number going back around 40 years
and it always had grease added to them. Recently, they changed the description from oil seals, to V-ring
seals...gee, wonder why?
Capture.JPG
That's an old time tech trick, to extend the life of those rubber seals. =^..^=
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
What type of grease did you use Rusty? I'm assuming applied to the outer side facing the bearings/ bushings.
One other thing, I know bearings seem a good idea, however I'm finding a few of them locking up, something bushings never did!!
The bushing don't seize up, sure, but they do oval out, causing the seals to fail. Typically the bearings last considerably longer than the bushings. I'll take a bearing every day over a bushing. =^..^=
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
I never use grease on the bushings, if they are oilite bushings. What I do on those is place them on my finger, fill them with tri-flow, then
pinch them between my fingers until the oil starts to ooze through the pores of the bushing.
Then, I simply wipe them dry and put them back into the machine. (if they aren't worn out).
Alvania #2. It's kind of a brown/orange grease.
P/N: 41303711000
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