Xerox color 1000i press error 10-310

[mntech]

Hello,
Fuser belt got damaged, and was replaced with a new(not by me), now getting a 10-310 (Fuser belt speed error).

When I cheat the door, the main drive roller under the belt spins, but the belt doesn't move. I also noticed the pressure roller doesn't engage, but I am not sure if it is supposed to or not.(I did check the pressure motor and sensor works with component control). Everything looks good and moves freely in the unit when apart.

Is the roller that drives the belt suppose to be somewhat tacky to grip the belt, or is pressure against the belt what make it turn?

Any idea, let me know

Thanks,
MNTECH

[fugglefeet]

Hello,
Fuser belt got damaged, and was replaced with a new(not by me), now getting a 10-310 (Fuser belt speed error).

When I cheat the door, the main drive roller under the belt spins, but the belt doesn't move. I also noticed the pressure roller doesn't engage, but I am not sure if it is supposed to or not.(I did check the pressure motor and sensor works with component control). Everything looks good and moves freely in the unit when apart.

Is the roller that drives the belt suppose to be somewhat tacky to grip the belt, or is pressure against the belt what make it turn?

Any idea, let me know

Thanks,
MNTECH

Hi,

If the fuser belt isn't moving and there is a 10-310 FC, what is the condition of the drive gear located on the back of the fuser belt assembly? Also what is the condition of the fuser drive motor and gearbox? Also check all bearings on the fuser belt assembly for binding. A recommendation is to clean the fuser belt speed sensor, fuser entrance transport, fuser exit transport and upper cooling belt assembly. Just had it yesterday with a machine giving 77-116 jams, cleaned these items and the jamming stopped.

Hope this helps.

fugglefeet

[mntech]

Thanks for the reply!

I haven't worked on this box before, so forgive me if I don't have the correct terms for the parts. We just recently acquired this machine.

Because I'm not familiar, I can't judge on how much binding is a problem. Most rollers in belt unit spin freely, but there seems to be some resistance on what looks like the secondary heat roller. The primary heat roller which is driven by the motor is spinning but the belt doesn't move at all.

I assumed even with some binding or gummed up bearings that the belt would move a little bit, but it doesn't at all.

I have a few questions about this fuser.

1. If I rotate the drive motor manually, should the belt spin?, or does another roller have to be engaged (pressure roller?)

2. My cleaning web is bone dry, should it have oil?

Thanks

[fugglefeet]

Thanks for the reply!

I haven't worked on this box before, so forgive me if I don't have the correct terms for the parts. We just recently acquired this machine.

Because I'm not familiar, I can't judge on how much binding is a problem. Most rollers in belt unit spin freely, but there seems to be some resistance on what looks like the secondary heat roller. The primary heat roller which is driven by the motor is spinning but the belt doesn't move at all.

I assumed even with some binding or gummed up bearings that the belt would move a little bit, but it doesn't at all.

I have a few questions about this fuser.

1. If I rotate the drive motor manually, should the belt spin?, or does another roller have to be engaged (pressure roller?)

2. My cleaning web is bone dry, should it have oil?

Thanks

Hi,

If you turn the main motor that drives the fuser belt assembly, the belt won't necessarily turn if the right half of the fuser unit is opened. On the right half of the fuser unit is the external heat roll that applies tension to the fuser belt. If the bearings on the external heat roll are seized up, this can prevent the fuser belt from turning on the fuser belt frame. The external heat roll also contacts the fuser web assembly. The fuser web assembly is a dry material that cleans the external heat roll and doesn't need oil. Be careful of the unit as a whole, as it gets extremely hot due to it containing 10 heater lamps located in the fuser belt and external heat roll assemblies.

Hope this helps.

fugglefeet

[mntech]

Thanks fugglefeet,

Still no luck. And another tech broke the harness for the belt unit thermistors, so waiting on that to come in.

I have it sitting on a bench right now, but when we had it in the machine, the machine would not run at all. During warm-up, the drive motor for the belt would turn on, and I would see the lower drive/heat roller spinning in the belt unit, but the belt would not move at all. Then about 5-10 seconds later when the machine detects no belt movement, it would fault. All gears are fine, no other rollers in the belt unit are seized up nor is the external heat roller. Everything seems to make good contact and is tensioned when the fuser unit is closed.

I noticed that the external heat roller is driven by a separate motor inside the machine and not by the fuser drive motor, does this external heat roller assist in the belts movement? I notice a sort of torque limitor on the external heat roller drive, but not sure if it goes bad. Basically if the unit is clam-shelled open, I can spin that coupling to turn the external heat roller, but if I grab onto the roller, there is resistance on the coupling but it wont spin (I'm guessing this is some sort of safety thing so gears or motors don't burn out if there is a sudden stop of the roller)

I would assume that if the fuser is sitting on a bench and the right side is closed, if I turn the motor manually, the belt should spin, but again, just the lower belt unit roller spins but nothing else. The only way I can get the belt to move is if I simultaneously turn the motor by hand, and stick my other hand in where the web goes and move the external heat roller by hand.

The only roller on bearings that I think should be spinning better is the upper heat roller in the belt unit, it is not locked up, but if I spin it, it wont keep moving by momentum. I would think this might just cause a slow down of the belt, rather then no movement at all.

Thanks,
MNTECH

[fugglefeet]

Thanks fugglefeet,

Still no luck. And another tech broke the harness for the belt unit thermistors, so waiting on that to come in.

I have it sitting on a bench right now, but when we had it in the machine, the machine would not run at all. During warm-up, the drive motor for the belt would turn on, and I would see the lower drive/heat roller spinning in the belt unit, but the belt would not move at all. Then about 5-10 seconds later when the machine detects no belt movement, it would fault. All gears are fine, no other rollers in the belt unit are seized up nor is the external heat roller. Everything seems to make good contact and is tensioned when the fuser unit is closed.

I noticed that the external heat roller is driven by a separate motor inside the machine and not by the fuser drive motor, does this external heat roller assist in the belts movement? I notice a sort of torque limitor on the external heat roller drive, but not sure if it goes bad. Basically if the unit is clam-shelled open, I can spin that coupling to turn the external heat roller, but if I grab onto the roller, there is resistance on the coupling but it wont spin (I'm guessing this is some sort of safety thing so gears or motors don't burn out if there is a sudden stop of the roller)

I would assume that if the fuser is sitting on a bench and the right side is closed, if I turn the motor manually, the belt should spin, but again, just the lower belt unit roller spins but nothing else. The only way I can get the belt to move is if I simultaneously turn the motor by hand, and stick my other hand in where the web goes and move the external heat roller by hand.

The only roller on bearings that I think should be spinning better is the upper heat roller in the belt unit, it is not locked up, but if I spin it, it wont keep moving by momentum. I would think this might just cause a slow down of the belt, rather then no movement at all.

Thanks,
MNTECH

Hi MNTECH,

If you suspect the upper heat roller bearings in the fuser belt unit should be spinning better, best is then to take them out and there are two options to remedy the sluggishness:-

1.) Replace them (Costly).
2.) Soak them in Automatic Transmission Fluid (Least Costly).

The last method is known to even free up heat seized bearings.

The other thing to check out for is the position of the external heat roller. This can impact the fuser belt. Normally the external heat roller is mounted to the frame with 4 screws to secure it in place. 2 screws near the ends of the external heat roller and 2 screws inside and hidden by the fuser web. If the 2 screws hidden behind the fuser web are missing, then the 2 screwholes at the ends of the external heat roller have been elongated to stop 10-316 and 10-317 fault codes. These codes are IB and OB belt travel limits, and can sometimes result in torn fuser belts. The fix for this is to replace the fuser belt walk sensor. The fuser belt walk sensor can be removed and cleaned. The unit uses 2 arms to lever the arm against the edge of the belt. Try cleaning both and apply a drop of PlastiSlip grease on both shafts to get it to move freely as possible.The cleaning is also the alternative to sensor assembly replacement, albeit not always successful. One last check is to see if the fuser belt is stuck to the pressure roller, causing it not to drive. This last item I doubt, since there is movement when the fuser drive motor and external heat roller are turned simultaneously to get the belt to move.

One last thing, apologies for not getting back sooner since I was preoccupied with getting network bridging to work on a PC I want to monitor my internet traffic with.

fugglefeet

[mntech]

We fixed it by putting in a different belt unit assembly that was pulled from another machine.

I'm thinking it was those bearings on the secondary heat roller, but didn't have time to play around with it. When I have more time, I'll try to narrow down exactly what the culprit was.

-MNTECH