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Sorry Debs, but you ain't using those in my workshop! They were invented by Lucas the Prince of Darkness and are guaranteed to corrode and cause voltage fluctuations. Solder joint and heat shrink only please.
At least 50% of IT is a solution looking for a problem.
Unless you have a specific need for connecting and disconnecting at ease, then I am with Lagonda all the way with soldering the joints and using heat shrink.
Please don't ask me for firmware or service manuals as refusal often offends.
Sorry Debs, but you ain't using those in my workshop! They were invented by Lucas the Prince of Darkness and are guaranteed to corrode and cause voltage fluctuations. Solder joint and heat shrink only please.
I didn't say I use them (I use duct tape ) Mrwho just wanted an alternative
There are 10 types of people in this world, those who understand binary maths and those who don't
Some people strip with wire strippers, solder, and cover with electrical tape.
I strip with my teeth (kids lost the wire cutters when they were using them on playdough), wrap together (they used the soldering gun for a wood burner), and cover with scotch tape (I just flat-out gave up on keeping electrical tape.)
Sorry Debs, but you ain't using those in my workshop! They were invented by Lucas the Prince of Darkness and are guaranteed to corrode and cause voltage fluctuations. Solder joint and heat shrink only please.
A great deal of people may well disagree with me here but....a properly executed crimp joint will be mechanically and electrically more reliable than a soldered joint. The key to an acceptable crimp joint is that it must be "gas tight" -- the metal of the wire and the crimp lug are pressed so intimately together that if it were the lid of food can, it would be an hermetic seal. To get the best joint, the crimp lug should be matched closely to the wire gauge: The stripped wire should just slip into the lug with minimal side-to-side play. The crimping tool is important as well, as the most inexpensive tools found in automotive supply stores tend to crush the crimp lug and not properly compress it around the wire. Unfortunately, industrial crimping tools can be quite expensive, costing hundreds of dollars apiece, and one may need several different tools for different sizes and styles of lugs and terminals.
Avoid cheap knock-off crimp lugs from China and other moderately disreputable places, especially if they are to be used in automotive or aviation applications. The brand-name lugs and terminals from western European and North American suppliers will cost more, but are worth it in the long run by avoiding joint failures later. Also the wire must not be twisted - this can result in a 60% weaker joint.
In fact - a badly soldered joint is often worse than a crimp - even a good joint that has not been 100% cleaned of flux residue is a joint waiting to fail.
P.S I would call the other connectors Chocolate Blocks.......
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