[Electrical] IPF 9100 Multisensor error

[xsaver]

I have canon ipf 9100.
when turned on after some start up check ( not all ) on LCD appear multi sensor error and shut it down.
i know multi sensor is fine and my main PCB have problem.
any body can help me winch part of main PCB must replace to fix it.
thanks all.

[V-P]

Re: IPF 9100 Multisensor error

Even if you knew which "part" is responsible - I don't think you would be able to fix it.

On some rare occasions we have been able to remove some transistors from one (broken) mainboard to another one.

But having only one board - where do you get the switching parts ?

[xsaver]

Re: IPF 9100 Multisensor error

Even if you knew which "part" is responsible - I don't think you would be able to fix it.

On some rare occasions we have been able to remove some transistors from one (broken) mainboard to another one.

But having only one board - where do you get the switching parts ?

at my city some electrical shop have some component apart of this i have 2 old head and carriage PCB.
I checked many not all switching transistor that was fine.
can any resistor cause malfunctioning or just check transistor ?
thnaks

[V-P]

Re: IPF 9100 Multisensor error

Can't tell you where to look exactly, because I don't know, but there are a lot of fuses that you have to check. For some of them if reading is 5 Ω or more, main controller PCB needsto be replaced.

Anyway I would just go get a new board...

[V-P]

Re: IPF 9100 Multisensor error

Probably you did this, but:

Did you turn it on in Service Mode / try to print a nozzle

or while the printer off /remove both heads / turn on is service mode and see what happens

???

[xsaver]

Re: IPF 9100 Multisensor error

in service mode, machine fully started up but can`t print and not detect multisensor or cover door or paper for nozzle check!
i found a dead fuse in carriage Bord. (FU101).
i think this pass 3.3 volt for multisensor, but why that burned ?
any way, i replace this fuse and say that what will be happen .I2Z3Okn.jpg

[V-P]

Re: IPF 9100 Multisensor error

I would say in 90% of cases it is the heads.

You need to replace both print heads... and than continue with troubleshooting

[teckat]

Re: IPF 9100 Multisensor error

in service mode, machine fully started up but can`t print and not detect multisensor or cover door or paper for nozzle check!
i found a dead fuse in carriage Bord. (FU101).
i think this pass 3.3 volt for multisensor, but why that burned ?
any way, i replace this fuse and say that what will be happen .[ATTACH=CONFIG]30809[/ATTACH]

There are may reasons why a fuse blows & many types of them protect various operations
Without a component circuit diagram ( which Canon does not provide anymore ) u are frozen in time/

yes u can replace same type component> but will not be able to find the cause of action on fuse
also that fuse could be in line with other item

[V-P]

Re: IPF 9100 Multisensor error

There are may reasons why a fuse blows & many types of them protect various operations
Without a component circuit diagram ( which Canon does not provide anymore ) u are frozen in time/

yes u can replace same type component> but will not be able to find the cause of action on fuse
also that fuse could be in line with other item

Canon always updates its lfp firmware in order to prevent this burn-outs. That is why it is important to always update to latest version.

[xsaver]

Re: IPF 9100 Multisensor error

I replace that fuse,now multisensor sensor work but,the printer can`t detect any head print!
what is your idea !?

[teckat]

Re: IPF 9100 Multisensor error

I replace that fuse,now multisensor sensor work but,the printer can`t detect any head print!
what is your idea !?

Did u protect bus line on board from any heat used to solder in fuse_?

[mramlawi]

Re: IPF 9100 Multisensor error

Hi this happen with me around 3 times as our mate said change 2 heads and the carraige board and it will work normally this happen with me in ipf8300 i dont know the reason ,i think canon in the ipf"s is not successful,hp running cost better ,in my counrty is very expensive the inks ,head,and the carrage unit .

[xsaver]

Re: IPF 9100 Multisensor error

Did u protect bus line on board from any heat used to solder in fuse_?

I use normal soldering iron to replace. not use any type of hot air or heater.

[xsaver]

Re: IPF 9100 Multisensor error

Hi this happen with me around 3 times as our mate said change 2 heads and the carraige board and it will work normally this happen with me in ipf8300 i dont know the reason ,i think canon in the ipf"s is not successful,hp running cost better ,in my counrty is very expensive the inks ,head,and the carrage unit .

your carriage PCB like me have dead fuse ?

[teckat]

Re: IPF 9100 Multisensor error

I use normal soldering iron to replace. not use any type of hot air or heater.

u still need to prevent the heat from traveling

1.-You should choose a soldering iron with a 3-pronged grounding plug.
(ground will help prevent stray voltage from collecting at the soldering tip and potentially damaging sensitive components)

2-Best to use a more powerful iron (40W) so that you don't need to spend a lot of time heating the joint, which can damage components.

3-Only use rosin core solder. (acid core solder will destroy the traces on the printed circuit board and erode the component leads. It can also form a conductive layer leading to shorts )

4-On Printed circuit board work, a solder with a diameter of 0.75MM to 1.0MM is desirable.

================================================== =====
Soldering A Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Soldering a PCB is probably the most common soldering task an electronics hobbyist will perform. The basic techniques are fairly easy to grasp but it is a skill that will take a little practice to master. The best way to practice is to buy a simple electronics kit or assemble a simple circuit (such as an LED chaser) on a perf-board. Don't buy that expensive kit or dive into a huge project after only soldering a few joints.
Soldering components onto a PCB involves preparing the surface, placing the components, and then soldering the joint.
Step 1: Surface Preparation:A clean surface is very important if you want a strong, low resistance solder joint. All surfaces to be soldered should be cleaned well. 3M Scotch Brite pads purchased from the home improvement, industrial supply store or automotive body shop are a good choice as they will quickly remove surface tarnish but will not abrade the PCB material. Note that you will want industrial pads and not the kitchen cleaning pads impregnated with cleaner/soap. If you have particularly tough deposits on your board, then a fine grade of steel wool is acceptable but be very cautious on boards with tight tolerances as the fine steel shavings can lodge between pads and in holes. Once you have cleaned the board down to shiny copper you can use a solvent such as acetone to clean any bits of the cleaning pad that may remain and to remove chemical contamination from the surface of the board. Methyl hydrate is another good solvent and a bit less stinky then acetone. Be aware that both these solvents can remove ink, so if your board is silk screened, test the chemicals first before hosing down the entire board.
A few blasts with compressed air will dry out the board and remove any junk that may have built up in the holes.
It also never hurts to give the component leads a quick wipe down as well, to remove glue or tarnish that may have built up over time.
Step 2: Component PlacementAfter the component and board have been cleaned, you are ready to place the components onto the board. Unless your circuit is simple and only contains a few components, you will probably not be placing all the components onto the board and soldering them at once. Most likely you will be soldering a few components at a time before turning the board over and placing more. In general it is best to start with the smallest and flattest components (resistors, ICs, signal diodes, etc.) and then work up to the larger components (capacitors, power transistors, transformers) after the small parts are done. This keeps the board relatively flat, making it more stable during soldering. It is also best to save sensitive components (MOSFETs, non-socketed ICs) until the end to lessen the chance of damaging them during assembly of the rest of the circuit. Bend the leads as necessary and insert the component through the proper holes on the board. To hold the part in place while you are soldering, you may want to bend the leads on the bottom of the board at a 45 degree angle. This works well for parts with long leads such as resistors. Components with short leads such as IC sockets can be held in place with a little masking tape or you can bend the leads down to clamp onto the PC board pads.


Step 3: Apply HeatApply a very small amount of solder to the tip of the iron. This helps conduct the heat to the component and board, but it is not the solder that will make up the joint. To heat the joint you will lay the tip of the iron so that it rests against both the component lead and the board. It is critical that you heat the lead and the board, otherwise the solder will simply pool and refuse to stick to the unheated item. The small amount of solder you applied to the tip before heating the joint will help make contact between the board and the lead. It normally takes a second or two to get the joint hot enough to solder, but larger components and thicker pads/traces will absorb more heat and can increase this time. If you see the area under the pad starting to bubble, stop heating and remove the soldering iron because you are overheating the pad and it is in danger of lifting. Let it cool, then carefully heat it again for much less time.

Step 4: Apply Solder To The Joint

Once the component lead and solder pad has heated up, you are ready to apply solder. Touch the tip of the strand of solder to the component lead and solder pad, but not the tip of the iron. If everything is hot enough, the solder should flow freely around the lead and pad. You will see the flux melt liquify as well, bubble around the joint (this is part of its cleaning action), flow out and release smoke. Continue to add solder to the joint until the pad is completely coated and the solder forms a small mound with slightly concave sides. If it starts to ball up, you have used too much solder or the pad on the board is not hot enough.

Once the surface of the pad is completely coated, you can stop adding solder and remove the soldering iron (in that order). Don't move the joint for a few seconds as the solder needs time to cool and resolidify. If you do move the joint, you will get what's called a "cold joint". This is recognized by it's characteristic dull and grainy appearance. Many cold joints can be fixed by reheating and applying a small amount of solder, then being allowed to cool without being disturbed.

Step 5: Inspect The Joint and CleanupOnce the joint is made you should inspect it. Check for cold joints (described a little above and at length below), shorts with adjacent pads or poor flow. If the joint checks out, move on to the next. To trim the lead, use a small set of side cutters and cut at the top of the solder joint.

Tips and Tricks

Soldering is something that needs to be practiced. These tips should help you become successful so you can stop practicing and get down to some serious building.

1. Use heatsinks. Heatsinks are a must for the leads of sensitive components such as ICs and transistors. If you don't have a clip on heatsink, then a pair of pliers is a good substitute.
2. Keep the iron tip clean. A clean iron tip means better heat conduction and a better joint. Use a wet sponge to clean the tip between joints. Keep the tip well tinned.
3. Double check joints. When assembling complicated circuits, it is good practice to check joints after soldering them. Use a magnifying glass to visually inspect the joint and a meter to check resistance.
4. Solder small parts first. Solder resistors, jumper leads, diodes and any other small parts before you solder larger parts like capacitors and transistors. This makes assembly much easier.
5. Install sensitive components last. Install CMOS ICs, MOSFETs and other static sensitive components last to avoid damaging them during assembly of other parts.