KonicaMinolta DI5510

[brent]

the last time I put in a oem drum and the cleaning blade along with oem developer. and it is really doing good this time. I don't know if there is a big difference with an oem to an aftermarket drum. but this made a huge difference. are you using aftermarket or oem?

brent

[mitchl]

the last time I put in a oem drum and the cleaning blade along with oem developer. and it is really doing good this time. I don't know if there is a big difference with an oem to an aftermarket drum. but this made a huge difference. are you using aftermarket or oem?

brent

The OEM drums work worlds better than any after market stuff. Reason being this machine creates and reads a patch off the drum for density reasons which in turn determines if toner needs to be added to the DV so if the density patch isnt right even though the TCR is proper the machine heads off in the wrong direction normally adding toner like its going out of style.............. Keep in mind it is vitally important to reset that drum counter to zero when its replaced, if it isnt reset the machine will maintain the old drums potential setting which should be quite a bit higher due to drum deterioration......... Yes these machines are a real pain in the ass if not tickled properly as we have learned over years. Again I'll ask my tech Pat to read the post and write up a little dissertation on this toner spewing monster.......... Another thing I just thought of even though it was on a BH 600 and a long shot, there is a soft switch on that machine that shuts off the automatic toner density system and adds toner every copy regardless if it needs it or not. We had that 600 driving us up the wall till we figured out that some brain surgeon that worked on it before us decided it would be a good idea to bypass the automatic system and turn on that soft switch.

[pjdbm]

non oem drum was replace with oem developer and all counters were cleared and adjustments were performed.

Developer was replaced a second time with all additional adjustments as suggested in the lengthy informative post here.

Problem still exist, I had the customer pull the toner bottle and run it like that, it will run good for 1k or 2k then the background appears even with the bottle out.

I think I have a bias problem here as mentioned.Maybe a new developer unit itself.


I will let you know one way or another

[brent]

you see that is why this site is so cool. we really can't just open a ticket with minolta and discuss oem and non oem parts. and actually konica minolta has been so busy that it is really hard to open a ticket and get a same day response. usually 2 or 3. who ever thought of this site ought to be commended because it is a great source of information. and quick tips to get our machines fixed. thanks


brent

[mitchl]

Go find the post i mentioned, it will show you how to rig a spring around the mag roller shaft and the bias pin so you dont lose continuity and a good portion of the bias.......... trust me it works and gives you 100% continuity across the mag roller. Here I found it fo ya!
http://www.copytechnet.com/forums/ko...html#post20323


Konica 7165/7155 Developer Dumping Solution
The Konica 7165/7155 models are known for developer dumping, grainy copies (using developer to create image) which causes premature fuser roller wear and light or washed out CQ which is worse on 2nd side. Solution:....... (This must be followed exactly as stated otherwise you will not realize a fix). 1 Verify PM, drum and developer counters are correct and reset after replacement (do not extend PM count or this will NOT work). 2. It's best to start with a fresh FULL PM, but if not, check clean and/or replace as neccessary the; charge wire, grid, charge cleaners, toner guide roller, and blade. 3.Check Drum-to-ground resistance. Spin drum in 47 mode 4-1-*-1-start. Measure from drum shaft screw to frame. Should be UNDER 80 ohms. If above, install lamp pressure plate (p/n 55FA53170). Attach to one of the 3 available near-by screws on the front of the drum carriage so that the plate touches and rides along the inner drum bearing race. re-measure. Should be less than 20 ohms now. 4. Make certain that Drum voltage is set correctly (see service manual) 5. Remove developer unit and set on level surface. Remove top cover. Set meter to lowest ohms scale. Hold one lead against set screw for doctor blade. Hold other lead against outer edge of mag roller where you can see the alluminum. Spin roller and read (may need help with this part or use wire leads with clips). Should read LESS than 20 ohms at all times during test. This is the most critical part and the MAIN cause of entire problem. If this is failing, nothing esle told here will work untill this is repaired. Options (a) replace developer bearing, remeasure and if new one is below 20 ohms, you're okay (careful, I have seen many new ones read bad) (b) Add modification to mag roller sleeve. (this is what my service dept. does and EVERY one of our 30 plus machines run clean with excellent CQ). We use p/n 26NA45140 (spring, reg) and connect both ends to the bias pin that protrudes from the back side of of the Dev unit (this is where it gets it's bias connection from the main body) and stretch it over the mag roller shaft giving the mag roller %100 continuity. This completly eliminates the mag roller bearing for bias transfer. NOTES; slightly stretch the spring before attaching. This will lessen the "lathe" effect on the mag roller. AND use an oil on the shaft (synthetic works great here) where the spring will be touching to eliminate any squeeks or squeels. Re-install and Run all drum peculiarity adjustment by the book. These procedures were created by our KMBS DSM and my team. We have %100 success with this procedure. There can be many variations to your solution, but remember all of the steps are critical to correcting this problem. Skip steps and you wont see improvement, guaranteed. No bias to mag roller = overtoning, misting, dumping, gritty copies and poor CQ. If anyone would like the procedure sheet, please request it at randolphj@martingroup.com. Happy fixing.


HAVE FUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[pepper38_cnd]

When was the drum bearing last replaced? and shine the piece that goes through the bearing to the shaft up real nice with scotchbrite or emery cloth.