NVRAM

[Jimthecopierwrench]

Re: NVRAM

I seem to recall the C-350 still using the old style Dallas NVRAM/real time clock which was a (28 pin?) plastic DIP format, no? (Or did they end at the CF-2002 and I'm mistaken??) Which means that part of the question is moot as they will not physically fit the 351/450. On the other hand they were easy to read and write with many EPROM programmers.

Other NV boards were indeed physically compatible - it was really all about the connector. Electronically, they're pretty straightforward devices - SRAM, a real time clock, and a power management watchdog.

Physically compatible means that they were electronically identical - but not necessarily the contents.

The reciprocal function of the NVRAM backup is the key sequence Stop-07139-clear, only available upon specific mismatch conditions and D/E codes.

Upon this sequence, the MFP loads it's NVRAM copy TO the NVRAM. Counters should remain intact.

[Gino_21665]

Re: NVRAM recovery pdf

Hope this can help, if you need particular firmware, let me know. Emujo

Hi Emujo, im a noob regarding this forum however i have an issue with a KM I223 and last check is Firmware could you possibly send me the latest ver for the Ineo 223

Regards
Gino

[sbus]

Re: NVRAM

A coupla things about Bizhub NVRAM (specifically the C351/C450):

1. You can take the controller off another machine, put THIS machines NVRAM board on it, install it, and test; if it works, it is NOT the NVRAM that's bad. I just had a C450 that hung at the hourglass when powered on, a classic NVRAM symptom. But it was NOT the NVRAM; I took the controller off another C450, put the 'bad' NVRAM module on it, and stuck it in the machine that wouldn't come up - it came up fine. Turned out to be a bad MFPC board, NOT the NVRAM. Bought one on eBay for $99 and the machine works like a champ.

2. The NVRAM modules usually die because the backup battery on them goes bad. (1) you can buy the battery online for about $12. (2) The original battery is a Sanyo CR17335SE-FT. The "FT" is the three-pin version. It's a 3V 1800mAh lithium battery. (3) You can substitute any 3V lithium battery that can deliver 1800mAh or higher. If you use a battery that has wire leads you can just solder the wires onto the NVRAM board. (4) If you don't use the original 3-pin battery, you may have to figure out how to physically attach the battery so it wouldn't fall off. I've used RTV to glue a battery onto the board. (5) After you replace the battery, you then can use the NVRAM card (see bulletin 5783) to reinitialize the NVRAM, since when you remove the old battery (or if it was completely dead) the contents of the NVRAM are erased/scrambled. (6) BE CAREFUL WITH BATTERY POLARITY. If you wire the battery backwards you can damage the NVRAM chip.

3. The NVRAM chip itself almost NEVER goes bad - it's almost ALWAYS the battery - unless you install a battery backwards.

4. Shelf life of the battery (before it is installed) is typically 10 years; but I won't install a battery with a date code that's more than 2 years old. CHECK THE BATTERY DATE CODE. You can purchase fresh ones from mouser.com, digikey.com, alliedelectric.com, batteryspecialties.com, etc. Ebay is risky (unless it's a battery company) since many of the batteries sold on ebay are old stock - unused, but maybe 5 years old or older. ASK for the date code before you buy. If you aren't worried about using the original, you can get a 3V 1800mAH or 3V 200mAh lithium backup battery at Frys. The battery size (of the original) is 2/3AA; a BR2/3AA battery will work IF it's a 3V battery, and IF it's rated 1800mAh or higher. A lot of them are 1400mAh - they will work, but don't last nearly as long.