[Misc] Konica C500 will not restore standard data

[henry finley]

Very strange. I go to Recall Standard Data: Process adjustment data restore, and the Yes button does nothing. The NO button and the previous screen buttons work, but not the Yes button. Apparent result is that no adjustment is going to happen. Zilch.
The trouble I'm in the middle of is determining why my Magenta particularly, and Cyan to some degree; print blotchy. I did a developer change, yet the problem came back. I have to run 30-50 copies on 20lb bond, a full sheet solid of the offending color just to get the offending color to smooth out before I can start in on my job that requires that color. Or I end up with a blotchy job.
And another thing--I've read about seeing to it the corona wire is clean I don't see any wire. I pull out the long frame with the fine mesh on the front of it, but I don't see any blamed wire, unless it's microscopic in diameter.
I've gotten along pretty well on working on this thing, but some things like this make no sense. Thank you.

[henry finley]

Well I ask kindly if someone can at least tell me what dip switch cuts off the drum potential sensors (related to SC29-22). Thank you.

[RRodgers]

Before doing all that, go into keyop mode then down to number 21 (execute adjust operation) then highlight all 4 (toner refreash, belt refreash.... etc) and then hit ok, back all the way out and let the box do it's thing. (it will run for about 3 mins) and then see how your copies come out after that. (should be much better) if you do not see number 21 in the keyop list you need to go in and set the dip switches up so it will show them. (I don't remember the dip switch number I think it's 12-something)
GL

[henry finley]

Thank you. That would have been my first action, had I not just replaced all the developers 3 weeks ago. I've been trying to avoid that, based on that fact, and on the fact that I'll end up losing a whole bunch of wasted toner. Those toner refreshes get expensive, quick. Looking down in the waste-toner box is sickening. That might be what I end up doing, though. And I know it won't last long before it comes back. The machine is not located in what you'd call an "office environment". The machine gets the same weather I do--from whatever the open window brings me--hot, cold, or miserable. That's probably 2/3 of my problems.

[RRodgers]

I would agree, people (customers) rarely expect "enviorment" (sp?) as one of the problems with the machine and how it will affect a color copiers output. I try to explain this to ALL my customers, sometimes they get it... usually not. One thing you can try is to change some of the dip switch settings so the copier will "calibrate" mid run. Or check toner density more often (don't use the default of 1000 pages on a printer's copier) they will always comeplain. Maybe lower it down to 500 pages.
HTH

[henry finley]

Well, I'm afraid it's too late. I've destroyed my machine trying to learn too much too fast. By reading these threads, I hit on a suggestion to switch developer units and tape over the opening to avoid contamination. I did so, against my better judgement. Immediately I got a 50-01, I believe it was. Upon reading, I've caused a disastrous mess Burned out a fancy chip or some doodad in the electronics. The visible fuses are still good, so it's a big mess, for sure. I'm afraid I've lost my machine. I'm pretty good, electronicly and mechanically, but this is obviously a plain deadly disaster. Looks like I have a big boat anchor now. You agree? Thanks, friend. PS--service man isn't an option. I'm too far from the city. I'm in the boondocks.

[henry finley]

Well I think I finally tracked down my circuit board problem due to my ill-advised developer unit swap. It appears that ICP 22 is open, which is a fuse related to the 5 volt operation on the Printer Control Board. I have the choice of pulling the board and paying $450 to have it worked on, or jury-rigging some sort of glass fuse or something soldered across it. But what amperage, I wonder. Radio Shack doesn't have much anymore these days, and I shutter at the horror of soldering something too strong in there and leave the board wide open to being fried.
A repair like this is nothing to me as a good electronic hobbiest and radio man. But what fuse should I try? 450 dollars to save a thousand dollar machine, or take the risk of rigging a another kind of fuse in there. What a quandary.

[henry finley]

This copytechnet is good, but it needs WAY more action. I'm going to get busy looking at the schematics of my fuse problem, then look at the parts physically, and make my best guess as to what amperage fuse to solder in across ICP22. I'm not sure what Radio Shack even has in stock any more. I'm going to start maybe at 1/2 amp, and see if it blows it. Then to 1. If I have to go higher than that, I'm going to get worried. I just don't see more than 5 watts power in that whole circuit.
If I get a fuse in there and 50-01 doesn't come up at boot-up, then I'll know I'm getting somewhere. The question is, will I be frying the PCRB? Nobody's answering me, so I'll keep you guys posted. Don't write me in 3 years, anybody, when you see this thread. I'll have forgotten all about it.

[RRodgers]

I think you can buy those fuses, I'm pretty sure we have bought some. Look around online.

[henry finley]

Thanks--I'll try. But those IC's look the same, but I bet the amperages are from .1 to 1 million. No matter what I do, it's like all the other things I've learned self taught and become near-expert at. Automatic transmissions, radio/TV/ Ham, camera repair, on and on. I've ruined a lot of devices in my day, but in the end, I made them all right, and never lost a patient, if it took thousands of hours. I'm a self-taught Hasselblad man. Nothing can stop me now. Courage is the key. Damn my shaking, scared hands. I'm doing this.
This is one of the better technical boards on the net. Some quality people on here. Reminescent of the kinds of guys you find in Amateur Radio. Thanks, friend--HTF
Maybe one day, another desperate guy, scared to death to dive into his machine, will see my plight here, my refusal to be beaten, and put his mind to the problem. Never quit.
When that machine boots with no 50-01, I'll post and tell about it.

[henry finley]

I came back to address to the friends who've followed the 50-01 saga. I've had a success! Not finished, but have proven my idea--the machine is sitting over here all apart , but working. I needed to get some sort of a fuse across !CP22. So I got a clothespin and some straight pins. I attached the straight pins to the clothespin, and clipped it across ICP22, and dug-in the sharp points into the soft solder on the board. It took 2-3 hours on this idea, because everything is so tiny and close together on the PRCB. You CANNOT accidentally touch something else.
Then I clipped some alligator clip cords to the pins. Then I clipped an ordinary .75 amp Radio Shack glass fuse to the jumper cords. And the machine fired up with 50-01 gone.
I have no intention of replacing the ICP on the circuit board. Instead, I'm just going to solder in a fine 2-conductor wire and run it off-site and fasten it somewhere. Just going to keep on with the Radio Shack cheap glass fuse. These machines will ALL be in the scrap metal yard before too many years. So why try to treat it like a 1958 Hammarlund radio or some Heathkit collectors item? Thanks friends.

[henry finley]

Done. It works!

[Coptech]

Do a search on pico fuses and you should find the info to read the fuse ratings.

[Albert]

Re: Konica C500 will not restore standard data

Hi Henry, Seems that not many people having the SC50-01 error problem on this machines.
I recently make a mess on my machine and burned the ICP 22 fuser on the PRCB, I tested and is borned. I checked the Fuser and is a 1.0amp, Now i read all the information on your thread and you mentioned that you used a .75 amp Radio Shack glass fuser and some clothe pins.

why you didnt used a 1.0amp fuser?
Is your machine working good with the .75 amps?

I really need some help before i burne this machine. thank you

[henry finley]

Re: Konica C500 will not restore standard data

Hi Henry, Seems that not many people having the SC50-01 error problem on this machines.
I recently make a mess on my machine and burned the ICP 22 fuser on the PRCB, I tested and is borned. I checked the Fuser and is a 1.0amp, Now i read all the information on your thread and you mentioned that you used a .75 amp Radio Shack glass fuser and some clothe pins.

why you didnt used a 1.0amp fuser?
Is your machine working good with the .75 amps?

I really need some help before i burne this machine. thank you

I scrapped that machine and got another one; it was such a total bag of problems, I got sick of the whole damn thing. But to answer your question--yes, that particular fuse substitution DID work, insofar as that particular problem went. I can't remember how I arrived at the .75 value, other than to vaguely remember that all the others were .75, so I just took a chance, or was it that I knew the voltage, guessed at the amperage, and did a little ohm's law equation? Can't remember. But .75 or 1--I don't see the big deal on the difference, so I'd just use a 1, if that's all I had. The way these machine are, it doesn't matter what problem you fix, as soon enough there's going to be another one. I'll bet the space shuttle was more dependable than any color copier. They were just a bad idea.