is this what a torn teflon roller looks like>?

[Walter1982]

Hi guys

I am not expert on this. I try to maintain my printers as best I can until there's a problem beyond my ability to fix it.

I have a Ricoh SP5300DN that seems to have a tear in the top roller in the fuser.

I also have another SP5300DN that had a similar issue. I could never figure out what the problem was until today I took a look at that upper fuser, and it looks like a similar problem. It seemed something was burned into the upper teflon roller.

Sometimes the soft orange roller would get crud on it, I would get a soft wet microfiber and gently rub it and wipe it off. But this tear on the upper roller doesn't seem fixable. Do I have to replace the entire fuser? I have never taken one of these apart. I might be better off just buying a new fuser. Are they difficult to pop in on these units, would it be challenging for a first timer?

How did this happen? Is it just wear and tear? Counter is at 265,000.

[KuArK]

Hi there,

Unfortunately, you can only get the fuser as a whole. (At least only here in Aus)

I find they are quite a pain to get the new one in, but if you run the pressure gear releasing the pressure roller it goes in a heck of a lot easier as now, you're not fighting the pressure when putting it in. (A co-worker told me this, so I haven't done that myself)

Fusers for those are supposed to have a life expectancy of 500k. I've had some do that when they aren't doing thick paper settings properly causing build up on those stripper pawls. Damp/reused paper can also cause this, especially since those fusers get way hotter than others. A good PM is to try and clean the pawls off every now and then but other than that, it's just wear. Cleaning stripper pawls won't help with damp paper though.

Hope this helps and good luck!

[MIGUELMARCHENA]

THE KIOSERA FS4300 WILL WORK FOR YOU. And if you can get an IM550 or P801 with silicone nails, even better.
AliExpress sells the generic one... it's okay.
Make sure the customer turns it off or programs it to turn off once the workday is over, Saturday or Sunday, etc., because leaving them on without use is what damages these melters the most.

[Walter1982]

Does anyone know where I can find instructions on how to remove the fuser kit from this printer? I am having trouble finding a service manual online.

[slimslob]

Does anyone know where I can find instructions on how to remove the fuser kit from this printer? I am having trouble finding a service manual online.

FYI it is the printer version of the MP 501.

SERVICE MANUAL - files.xdigital.com.br

[KuArK]

Ty slimslob, beat me too it

I just found an online version of the model up from yours (IM550F) Ricoh IM 550F Field Service Manual (Page 340 of 1110) | ManualsLib
The fuser replacement process is exactly the same.

I'm not sure the policies on this site about sharing manuals straight from Ricoh so I'm not gonna do that, but if they are already online then linking them should be okay?
I'm sure I will get told if not.

[slimslob]

Ty slimslob, beat me too it

I just found an online version of the model up from yours (IM550F) Ricoh IM 550F Field Service Manual (Page 340 of 1110) | ManualsLib
The fuser replacement process is exactly the same.

I'm not sure the policies on this site about sharing manuals straight from Ricoh so I'm not gonna do that, but if they are already online then linking them should be okay?
I'm sure I will get told if not.

Due to the size of most Ricoh service manuals they are too large. I use gmail which allows you to send large files as links to the file stored on my Google drive. I would just have techs message me with their email address.

[Walter1982]

Thank you so much guys. I appreciate it!

Do you guys recommend getting fusers from China, such as these, that seem to be refurbished...

https://www.made-in-china.com/productdirectory.do?word=M2814070&file=&searchType =0&subaction=hunt&style=b&mode=and&code=0&comProv i nce=nolimit&order=0&isOpenCorrection=1&org=top

I also found a few OEM used ones on ebay.

And the brand new ones at discount copier center.com are around $250.

Since I have 2 of these printers (SP5300DN) I need 2 fusers.

I am also a high volume printer, usually printing from 10k to 15k pages each month.

The fusers are supposed to have a yield of 500,000 pages, but both of my printers had the same problem, where the "hot roller" seems to have a burn or tear. Both of my printers are under 250,000 prints. How does it fail so early? Is it the humidity (South Florida) Is my paper settings incorrect? Should I be powering off the printer at the end of the day, instead of letting it go to sleep?

[Walter1982]

THE KIOSERA FS4300 WILL WORK FOR YOU. And if you can get an IM550 or P801 with silicone nails, even better.
AliExpress sells the generic one... it's okay.
Make sure the customer turns it off or programs it to turn off once the workday is over, Saturday or Sunday, etc., because leaving them on without use is what damages these melters the most.

what are the silicon nails?

also, what you're suggesting is at the end of the workday, to completely power off the printer, using the Power button, instead of just letting it go to sleep?

[KuArK]

I couldn't tell you exactly why they failed early, but going off the pictures the black stuff looks like toner. Usually seen when not fusing correctly and typically caused by insufficient heat, damp paper, paper weight not set correctly or something along those lines which is what I based my suggestions on.

Check they are printing using the correct paper thickness. Might be printing on 90-120gsm paper or something but with plain paper settings selected.
Damp paper also causes toner to stick to the fuser, I'd say humidity would be a large factor, but I've never been to Florida and not sure how much the paper is curling once it comes out of the machine. I also am in a cold/wet area, so my humidity is probably a lot different than yours so take this with a grain of salt. Cold hailing day, then the next day is warm sunshine does wonders for paper and paper transfer... not.

I may have heard of the turning off the printer to save the fuser, but I haven't needed to do that. I don't see any harm in trying and if it helps why not?
I would not turn it off right after it's done a run, you will get a mad flat spot on your pressure roller.
I have one of these machines that gets its fuser replaced often, but it does get hammered with prints. I hate rebadged kyoceras.

I can't give advice with getting a fuser, never had to buy parts that way.

My theory is that it's just quite not fusing correctly for some reason, causing buildup/possible jamming which in turn making fuser wear faster than it should.

[Walter1982]

Thank you, I am not a trained technician, so I'm learning on the fly as best I can. I can't afford to buy new printers and need these to last as long as possible. Fusers generally should yield 500,000 prints but mine are dying half way thru and I need to figure out why. I've never adjusted paper thickness settings so that is something to look into. The paper does not come out curled at all, not even any ripples.