MP 2510 full fuser rebuild

[rthonpm]

Thanks to a retiring tech, I was able to pick up a little stash of off custody parts sitting in his garage. One of the main things I was able to get was a lower fuser frame for an MP 2510. I'm rebuilding the frame to replace a damaged fuser I had as a ready spare, and had already disassembled. Since my one good spare is in a customer machine I don't have a complete unit to use as an example and I'm having an issue with two things:

1. I'm having a bear of a time re-running the connector wiring for the two lines that go to the thermostats. Does anyone have a good picture of the wiring path for this area?

2. On the right hand side of the lower frame, there's a tensioner spring that works with the pressure level release. Is there a good illustration anywhere of the correct location for it, and the parts above it? The parts catalogue is no help at all, and I haven't been able to find much doing a search of the site.

Probably two or three pictures from one of my good colleagues here would be all I need to get this guy ready to go.

Thanks in advance!

[sandmanmac]

Re: MP 2510 full fuser rebuild

I'm with you. I've only aver dis-assembled and re-assembled these side-by-side. I'd be screwed otherwise.
There is a surprising number of parts, clips, levers etc. to deal with.
Hopefully these help:
MP2510 fuser.jpgMP2510 fuser_2.jpgMP2510 fuser_3.jpgMP2510 fuser_4.jpg

[TonerMunkeh]

Re: MP 2510 full fuser rebuild

The "dog's face" tension spring is by far the worst thing to reassemble on a Russian fuser if you didn't pay attention to how it came out. Make sure you get the little flappy black door actuator from the bottom of the old one too.

[Zeldaman]

[rthonpm]

Re: MP 2510 full fuser rebuild

I've been using the bearings from the 35/45 series on these fusers for years now to make up for the broken lip that the heat tube rides on. If you fit the bearing so that the extra ring is outside of the metal frame around it, the bearing will stay in place no matter what happens to the plastic underneath.

In this case, I was replacing the lower frame because of damage to the overall fuser from an accident I had a few months back. It was in my trunk at the time and even in its box it didn't like the impact of the truck that hit me.

[rthonpm]

Re: MP 2510 full fuser rebuild

I just wanted to update everyone on this issue. Firstly, thank you to everyone who offered suggestions. I had the opportunity to test the fuser in a machine, only to find out that thanks to worn coverings on the wires from the connector that I attached them incorrectly. After powering up a test machine for the first time, I got no power at all. Comparing the fuser to a known good one, I quickly found the error: the ground connection was swapped with one of the hots, which took out the ceramic fuse on the power supply board.

Being a packrat I had one of those with me, and I was able to get the machine going again after correctly attaching the connector wires. What a way to learn the hard way! At least now, I have enough pictures and information available to completely rebuild one of these again.