primary transfer belt problems

[Dustin(WOP)]

I recently started to rebuild transfer units instead of replacing the whole unit. However whenever i rebuild one if I don't get the rollers out of the secondary rebuild transfer kit, and just put the new belt on and cleaning blade I run into problems with lines on my copies. If i replace both kits and use the rollers then rebuilding them works fine. just wondering if there is something I am doing wrong or if anyone else has run into this....IT IS BUGGING THE CRAP out of me....THANKS!!!
(this is true for the MX-2300, 2700, 3501, 4501, 5500, and 7001.)

[OMD-227]

Hey Dustin,

I have some advice for you.

The primary and secondary belt units rebuilds have nothing to with each other in regards to your lines. You say that you need to replace the transfer rollers in the secondary unit to stop lines/smudging on the primary unit??
Speaking from years of experience in refurbishing these MX belt units, this is what I do:

Primary Belt. Remove belt from unit. Thorough clean of all 4 transfer rollers with a strong cleaning fluid to remove all hard/crusty/sticky toner & paper dust buildup on them. They should be smooth and shiny (just like a new set would look). Clean the main drive roller (black one with drive gear) with same cleaning fluid and sometimes sandpaper to get all of the buildup off it as well. It should also be smooth with no stickiness or rough spots. Clean all other rollers & belt frame. The frame should have no floating debris of any sort inside it because when you put the belt back on, it will be lumpy under the belt (C/Q issues). When dry, put new belt onto belt unit frame (serial number side towards front). When belt unit is tightened with all screws, rotate the belt in its normal rotation direction. If you see the belt sticking to the main drive roller, remove the belt and re-clean that roller. It is not clean enough, and you will have smudging issues. The belt will stick to the main drive roller for a split second as it passes by the cleaning blade, and will cause that spot not be be cleaned. When rotating the belt, you should see the belt moving smoothly past the main drive roller. Remove old cleaning blade, vac all toner inside cleaning unit. Replace cleaning blade. Fully powder the belt with Titanium Hydroxide. When I say powder it, I mean scrub that powder bag into the belt surface. I personally use Stearic Acid powder, but Sharp recommend the Titanium Hydroxide. I found the Stearic to work better..... thats just my opinion though. The manual says to just gently powder the surface, but I have found that scrubing it in to the surface, gives a better seal against the cleaning blade. If you are not in the field, fit the cleaning unit cardboard piece (the one you remove from a new belt unit). This helps the cleaning blade work better later on when you fit the unit. Once fitted to your machine, immediately run 100 pages on sim64-05 non-stop. This will give the belt & the cleaning blade a good seal against each other and well as putting plenty of toner on the page to see if the blade is working OK. If some lines or smudging appears during this first 100 pages, simply take the cleaning unit off the belt unit, clean the leading edge of the blade with your finger/rag to remove the excess powder or foreign object causing the smudges/lines. Refit the cleaning unit to the belt. Run off another 100 pages. You will see that by now, the belt and blade have seated well against each other and should be cleaning properly.
My experience shows that if you do a rebuild with that little extra care during the procedure, you should and most likely will get double life out of the belt.
That is the exact procedure I have followed for many years and not a single belt has failed on me yet that I have rebuilt. I know the manual says to do some steps slightly different, but I have seen some problems in doing that.

Secondary Belt. Honestly..... never changed a belt kit yet. Not going to waste my time. The secondary unit will easily do 500K-600K life unless it gets damaged by the client. I dont replace it until it actually fails. I replace the whole unit, eg the U2 unit. I carry one of each model's secondary belt unit in my car. If I need it, I replace it.
I cannot see how you are getting lines caused by the secondary rollers.
In my opinion, you simply are not cleaning or powdering the primary belt good enough during your rebuild process.

[labish]

I agree with Wazza it's all what the book said. About the Titanium or Stearic powders I pass it the yellow toner works very well not only on Sharp. I did not find a magic solution for smart customers using a color copier for labels but iso is ok so far nothing is damaged. Rebuilding the unit is a normal job Sharp belt is going to work longer but pay attention at the color meter if is bigger than the black the belt have to be replaced. Today I had one on MX 3501 N with a total of 238 k copies but 168k on black and the difference on color. The belt was in a very good shape but the VIP said replace it so I did. If you rebuild the unit clean the bushings for the transfer rollers very well with iso or whatever cleaner you have the white one and the black one you know are conductive and is important. I had a problem with a belt on a MX 5500 and I fix it but I can tell what was the faulty part. Customer complains about blue printing on the edge of a 11X17 color print and checking the belt was a blue line a red one and a yellow on the belt at rear of the machine and a magenta line at the front. I found the cyan drum scratched and the yellow but was out off the print area. The scratches were about half a inch long anyway I replaced the CMY drums and the problem was fixed but I did not have the filling that I catch it. The belt had all 4 color lines all over so it was a charge somewhere.