I have a MX 5500 color machine that has magenta lines running leadeadge to trail eadge. I have replaced the magenta drum and rebuilt the primary transfer belt unit. Any other ideas?Thank you
magenta lines MX5500N
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Did you replace the entire drum frame with a new one or rebuild it? If rebuilt did you do Drum, Charger and blade or just drum?
Did these lines show up before or after you rebuild the transfer unit?Evil will always triumph because good is dumb. -
OMD-227
If the magenta color lines are a true 'magenta' then the problem is strictly related to the drum unit or dev unit. This has nothing to do with the belt unit.
As Lawrence has said already, a drum replacement is not enough. It must be either the drum & maint kit (blade & grid unit) or a complete drum unit (you can use the same drum unit as the MX2300/2700/3500/4500 series... just swap the green cleaning arm over).
You'll probably find all CMY counts will be the same, so if magenta is starting to have issues now, change all color drums at the same time.Comment
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ricohken
I replaced the drum unit ( used unit) , the lines were there before replacing the drum. also replaced the cyan drum unitComment
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OMD-227
OK, why replace a drum unit with one already used (and probably in the same condition as the one you removed)?
The lines are usually caused by the MC grid contamination. The used one would have this contamination as well (see above post on this).Comment
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May not be the best way, but when I troublshoot PCQ for a color drum on these models, step one is to take one of the other drums (say Cyan) and switch them. If Magenta is fine but now getting a Cyan line - you know it is the drum. If I still have a Magenta line, check the magenta developer unit to see if the cleaning blade has a clump or something (visual check, also could turn it backwards a bit).
I say the above because I Ass_U_Me your real step one was to clean the magenta main charger and slit glass.Comment
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OMD-227
Well, its not the best way, mainly due to individual calibration levels for each color channel being different, therefore giving either more or less lines with a different drum unit in that place. Can be slightly confusing if all of a sudden there are alot more lines with another drum unit but that particular drum was fine just a second ago in its original spot. I learnt that mistake many years ago. But, if it works for you, go for it.
I have to agree with the other guys mainly. If the drum count or rotation count is high or near-due for replacement, there's no point in cleaning the grid or swapping drum units around, because it might fix it for a day or two, then return just as bad, with a pissed off customer. Replace the drum unit or rebuild it. It has fully paid for itself anyway long ago by that stage.Comment
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ricohken
I replace the charger / grid , lines are gone now I need to replace the secondary transfer belt it has been damaged . THANK YOU FOR THE HELP!!!!Comment
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OMD-227
Its always a good idea to change the drum at the same time as the grid unit. These must be done at the same time.
If you noticed wear marks on the edges of the drum, but only replaced the grid unit, you will get future overtoning caused by drum overcharging, eventually through to things as bad as dev pull or an F2-6x code associated with contant toner pull (dev unit cannot stabilize) as the drum is constantly charged and/or arching when worn down to the aluminium substrate.
I think you should have got the message by now mate. There has been alot of advice here, all saying to replace the whole drum unit or fully rebuild the drum unit. I also advise to perform the full color maintenance at the same time to keep all the counters in sync (CMY drum units & devs). That way you dont get recalls on other color faults sooner than expected. Thats the case on any MX color machine.Comment
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