Trouble Code "H4-04" on Sharp DX-C311

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  • RascalMJ
    Trusted Tech

    Site Contributor
    100+ Posts
    • Mar 2009
    • 174

    #16
    I have used 2 different fusers in the unit, but to be honest, I have not checked the "version" of either. I can find out tomorrow

    Comment

    • OMD-227

      #17
      Definitely put in a 32FU. All the mods are done with this unit. A quick visual inspection will show much larger roller bearings on the 32FU. Thats the good one!!

      Comment

      • jprecht
        Trusted Tech

        100+ Posts
        • Dec 2008
        • 104

        #18
        While I agree with all the previous answers, I have found over the last 25 yrs that sharp's are prone to this problem in wintertime, especially when they are located in basements or "on site work trailers". with their backs to the exterior wall. I'd suggest you try lowering the initial ready hot roller temp by jst a few degrees while ensuring you still have optimum "fusing" i've always used the "ol thumbnail scratch" to test this with. Do NOT change yr temps for "other media types". just your warm up 20# bond stylie. I have assumed that all your fusing components are in good working order making this suggestion. Good Luck with it!!! Kiss It!!!
        IT IS BETTER TO REMAIN QUIET AND BE THOUGHT A FOOL
        THAN TO SPEAK AND REMOVE ALL DOUBT

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        • RascalMJ
          Trusted Tech

          Site Contributor
          100+ Posts
          • Mar 2009
          • 174

          #19
          Originally posted by wazza
          Definitely put in a 32FU. All the mods are done with this unit. A quick visual inspection will show much larger roller bearings on the 32FU. Thats the good one!!
          Good tip.

          I did just do some work to the pressure release area on a fuser for a diff 311.... so, I know where you are coming from with some of the MANY chnages

          Originally posted by jprecht
          While I agree with all the previous answers, I have found over the last 25 yrs that sharp's are prone to this problem in wintertime, especially when they are located in basements or "on site work trailers". with their backs to the exterior wall. I'd suggest you try lowering the initial ready hot roller temp by jst a few degrees while ensuring you still have optimum "fusing" i've always used the "ol thumbnail scratch" to test this with. Do NOT change yr temps for "other media types". just your warm up 20# bond stylie. I have assumed that all your fusing components are in good working order making this suggestion. Good Luck with it!!! Kiss It!!!
          I thought about trying this, but changing those temps SCARE ME!!! haha

          There are SO many to pick from

          Comment

          • jprecht
            Trusted Tech

            100+ Posts
            • Dec 2008
            • 104

            #20
            I n I, you brought the fuser back to the shop and it gives the same "low temp" code.??? Obviously there is an "issue " with "that" unit. My apologies 4 previous post. is obvious you have an incompatibility issue with that"style" fuser and current firmware. I apologize 4 minimizing a possible solution, I have been a "field tech" 4 25 yrs but still find that starting with the basics, allows you 2 construct your pyramid on a SOLID BASE. I stand by my claim that Sharp copiers are "prone" to this ":low temp" code much more often than other boxes. We don't get THAT cold here in Austin, Tx., and I have seen this h-4 CODE ON ALMOST EVERYTHING SHARP HAS MADE IN THE LAST 15+ YR'S. on a regular "callback" basis.
            IT IS BETTER TO REMAIN QUIET AND BE THOUGHT A FOOL
            THAN TO SPEAK AND REMOVE ALL DOUBT

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            • jprecht
              Trusted Tech

              100+ Posts
              • Dec 2008
              • 104

              #21
              My Friend, YOU!!! Would NOT BE a TECH, if you didn't have a "go for it" gift.!!! Yes we often stumble or have to get the laptop out or even "THE BOOK(BIBLE) So Bloody WHAT???? This "job" requires "quick thinking" as well as cust. satisfaction. Make iT sO # 1.

              What i am trying to tell you i guess, is that, there are NO EASY ANSWERS sometimes. Take my advice, become a "DUCK"!!!
              That probably sounds a bit weird/funny, but I tell you this frm my MR COPYMAN FIX EVERYTHING@LITTLE or No Cost, experiences of 25 yrs in the biz. I'm NOT saying "duck" your problem calls/custs, But Let THEM UNLOAD on YOU and being a duck, you PAY ATTENTION to their DEMANDS, and "LIKE A DUCK" they roll off your shoulders as they should each nite cuz Lord knws there will be MORE 2mrrw!!! Hang Tuff!!! the "FUN" is always meeting new people(yum) and seeing how "other" folks make a living!!! You R THE HERO when you arrive. K
              Lord Help you if you leave the box worse than whn you arrived!!!!! Always!!!! keep your Head to the Sky!!!!

              jon
              IT IS BETTER TO REMAIN QUIET AND BE THOUGHT A FOOL
              THAN TO SPEAK AND REMOVE ALL DOUBT

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              • RascalMJ
                Trusted Tech

                Site Contributor
                100+ Posts
                • Mar 2009
                • 174

                #22
                Originally posted by wazza
                Definitely put in a 32FU. All the mods are done with this unit. A quick visual inspection will show much larger roller bearings on the 32FU. Thats the good one!!
                Are there any other indications to tell the difference?

                I pulled the fuser out and saw that it said "FRTFU8002519Y" , but it doesn't seem to tell me anything about what you were talking about.

                Comment

                • OMD-227

                  #23
                  Not really any markings on the new fuser type. The production change was made from August 2010, so check the serial number of your machine. If you look inside the fuser unit, the bearings are much bigger/wider on the new type. The original MXC31FU bearings are small & thin.

                  mxc bearings.JPG

                  All the other mods are already done inside the fuser unit.

                  Comment

                  • RascalMJ
                    Trusted Tech

                    Site Contributor
                    100+ Posts
                    • Mar 2009
                    • 174

                    #24
                    Originally posted by wazza
                    Not really any markings on the new fuser type. The production change was made from August 2010, so check the serial number of your machine. If you look inside the fuser unit, the bearings are much bigger/wider on the new type. The original MXC31FU bearings are small & thin.

                    [ATTACH=CONFIG]7802[/ATTACH]

                    All the other mods are already done inside the fuser unit.
                    thanks

                    Comment

                    • mojorolla
                      The Wolf

                      2,500+ Posts
                      • Jan 2010
                      • 2571

                      #25
                      These fusers are fairly simple but have a lot of issues. On the Sharp site, it has 8 pages of mods and retrofits, alot fuser related. Even the modded pressure release flags crack, had one today and one yesterday. I knock down the temp a bit as they seem to run hot. I agree that the 32FU is a better unit; no calls on the ones we have.
                      Failing to plan is planning to fail!!!

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                      • RascalMJ
                        Trusted Tech

                        Site Contributor
                        100+ Posts
                        • Mar 2009
                        • 174

                        #26
                        Originally posted by mojorolla
                        These fusers are fairly simple but have a lot of issues. On the Sharp site, it has 8 pages of mods and retrofits, alot fuser related. Even the modded pressure release flags crack, had one today and one yesterday. I knock down the temp a bit as they seem to run hot. I agree that the 32FU is a better unit; no calls on the ones we have.
                        Yeah, I have read through all I can take about the bulletins and such on the fuser! haha

                        Several bulletins on the H4-04 and firmware being the "fix". I have had the pressure release flag issue as well.

                        What temp do you actually knock down?

                        Comment

                        • CBMWilson
                          Technician

                          50+ Posts
                          • Sep 2010
                          • 53

                          #27
                          I think the default is about 190 F, when we drop the temp we usually don't drop it more than 5 degrees F or so.


                          We have several frontiers floating around here, tons of fuser problems. On most of our other machines we max out power save mode and turn off auto power shut off. On these, we try to keep as close to the default settings for power save and turn off auto power shut off only when the customer requests it (99% of the time). Our thinking is to let these things cool down every once in a while considering how hot they get in such a small box, not to mention the relatively poor ventilation.

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                          • Dark Helmet
                            Senior Tech

                            Site Contributor
                            500+ Posts
                            • May 2009
                            • 832

                            #28
                            Originally posted by CBMWilson
                            I think the default is about 190 F, when we drop the temp we usually don't drop it more than 5 degrees F or so.

                            Our thinking is to let these things cool down every once in a while considering how hot they get in such a small box, not to mention the relatively poor ventilation.
                            One of our other offices cranks the energy save timers and they complain about the flag breaking all the time. Ive had 1 break so far but my shut off is set for 60 min and 20 min pre heat which i think help alot.
                            Evil will always triumph because good is dumb.

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                            • RascalMJ
                              Trusted Tech

                              Site Contributor
                              100+ Posts
                              • Mar 2009
                              • 174

                              #29
                              Originally posted by Lawrence
                              One of our other offices cranks the energy save timers and they complain about the flag breaking all the time. Ive had 1 break so far but my shut off is set for 60 min and 20 min pre heat which i think help alot.
                              Can you and./or anyone else really break down any changes you are making specifically. I don't want to change the wrong thing.

                              Especially anything with the "pre-heat". That is when this machine seems to throw the code. The code itself talks of not getting to the right temp (it is low)...... and it usually shows up once the machine has been powered off.

                              I changed :

                              43 - 1

                              165 ---> 150 just to test what that would do overnight and it didn't throw the code this AM.... so I am hopeful this may have solved it. I will likely bump it up a touch cuz 15 is a lot, but we don't use it much and it is our office unit so I had some leeway on quality if it was too low

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                              • CBMWilson
                                Technician

                                50+ Posts
                                • Sep 2010
                                • 53

                                #30
                                If i have to change the temps, I'll generally change 43-1 A-I down by 5 degrees. Any more and I start worrying about tracking or poor fusing.

                                That particular code appears to refer to the TH_EX which is the external heat roller thermistor. It requires a higher temperature setting than the upper or lower heat rollers. You might also try to increase the time allowed to come to ready which appears to be 83 seconds (item L on 43-1).

                                Is there any thing external that could affect warm-up? Nearby ventilation, exterior window?

                                I'm working from the MX-C311 manual so hopefully the settings are the same for the DX version.
                                Last edited by CBMWilson; 01-07-2011, 10:39 PM. Reason: Started with the B401 manual; settings not the came for color machines

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