Toner is flacking off.

[impimp329]

I have a Konica 8050 & I am running a digital 80# cougar sheet 11x17 with a solid bar in burgandy running fron top to bottom on the 11". The copy is flacking off on the end of the solid. I tried several settings of paper on the bypass tray & nothing is working. PLEASE HELP. I know there is a setting in either 3-5 mode or 2-5 that needs to heat the sheets longer so the toner is cooked on the sheet. I also tried running coated sheets & uncoated sheets Thanks in advance.

[Stirton.M]

use thick setting # 5 or # 6

[impimp329]

use thick setting # 5 or # 6

I tried all the settings & nothing worked. Any other ideas?

[RRodgers]

I tried all the settings & nothing worked. Any other ideas?

Replace the torque limiter on the fuser.

[impimp329]

Replace the torque limiter on the fuser.

RRodgers, how do I go about replacing the torque limiter?

[RRodgers]

RRodgers, how do I go about replacing the torque limiter?

Its held in with one e clip on the bottom of the fuser.

I should have ask first, does it make a clunking noise?

[impimp329]

Its held in with one e clip on the bottom of the fuser.

I should have ask first, does it make a clunking noise?

No noise at all

[RRodgers]

No noise at all

Try printing on 12 x 18 and cutting it down.

[impimp329]

Try printing on 12 x 18 and cutting it down.

Printing it on 12x18 ? how will that help?. The problem is with the toner not being fused onto the sheet. I believe that is a heating problem. Thanks anyway.

[impimp329]

http://s884.photobucket.com/albums/a...INE_Page_1.jpgI am also getting this dreaded line thru my copy I cleaned corona wires drums & everything else I could think of.

[RRodgers]

Are you talking about the line right under the word November? Or the light cyan toward the bottom? Either way, it's a problem with the Cyan Dev unit. Grab a business card and clean the doctor blade gap.

[impimp329]

Are you talking about the line right under the word November? Or the light cyan toward the bottom? Either way, it's a problem with the Cyan Dev unit. Grab a business card and clean the doctor blade gap.

RRodgers, can you point me to the right direction?. I was talking about both areas.

[Stirton.M]

Don't use photobucket...this site has its own image storage...you can upload here with less hassle.

As for the image with the line....do a half tone for each colour to narrow down which one is causing the problem.

Either there is dust on the slit glass or debris of some kind right beneath the dev unit of the affected colour. I usually just give a light pressure blow with a can of air..I stress, LIGHT blow, not a full on blast....

The torque converter may be failing or one of the one way gears in the fuser may be going south...if you are not getting proper fusing and you set it to the thick settings like I mentioned, this is the only other possibility. I would suggest a fuser rebuild that includes replacing the one way gears and so forth.

[Stirton.M]

Oh right, I did not see that lower line....

It could be fuzz discharging the drum surface near where the grid is. Likely best bet is to remove the belt and 4 drums and charge assemblies and give the process area a decent cleaning with a tac cloth.

And ya, if it is not that, might be crap in the doctor blade area.