Question No. 1

[subaro]

Starting a series of questions on common problems and solutions that we face every day. So here is the first.

Years ago got a call that label was stuck in a Kyocera FS-8026. Who remembers those. Its a colour heavy duty printer. Anyway, walked into the office and the secretary explained that she was printing labels and some did not came out. She was a bit petrified and i assured her not to worry, i'll take care of it.
Spent one hour or two and removed stuck label from three drums and machine worked fine.
Called her and showed her the results and she was estatic and could not finish thanking me. I educated her about using the proper labels and that this just happens sometimes for what ever reason.

So my question is. What is the best method of removing labels stuck on drum, fuser ect. ? Imagine it is a 600 dollars drum.

I know many will say replace the parts and bill the customer. easily said than done. Not if you want renewals.

What i am looking for here is detailed method of removing the lablels rather than the politics of who is at fault ect.

I will post my method after a few replies to others and if one has exactly what i do, then i will say so.

[allan]

Re: Question No. 1

You tug on a corner. it comes of.
Quick fix wipe with solvent.

You tug on it and the stick stuff says behind.
Use a cloth point soaked with solvent. Try to lift and grab it while pulling very slowly on the sticker at small angle over the sticker itself. Apply solvent at the edge where the stick is peeling.
Or soak with solvent and then rubbing it off with a microfiber cloth.

If Paper layer says behind and the top half comes off after pulling on it.
Try again and pull of the remaining stuff.
or wash of with cloth.

It depends to what the sticker get stuck to i guess.
The call is chargeable so its done carefully.

Use alcohol. then clean the machine.

[Hansoon]

Re: Question No. 1

Warm up the label carefully without applying too much heat to the drum. It can be peeled off easily.

Hans

[subaro]

Re: Question No. 1

Warm up the label carefully without applying too much heat to the drum. It can be peeled off easily.

Hans

Could you describe the method you use to warm up the drum. want to try that. And how do you get rid of the glue residue completely. As you know, even a speck of anything on the drum will show up on the print output.

[blackcat4866]

Re: Question No. 1

Huh? I've never tried those things.

I sponge on Paraffin Lamp Oil with a soft cloth to loosen the adhesive and it slides right off. It works on Selenium Tellurium drums, ASi drums, Organic drums, Primary Transfer Belts, Secondary Transfer Belts, Registration rollers, paper guides. Just anything non-porous. For example you can't use it on a secondary transfer roller. It requires very little scrubbing (which is especially good on Selenium Tellurium drums), but leaves an oily residue, which must be rinsed off with alcohol. It's a good idea to run 50 pages through to let the cleaning blade squeegee off any remaining residue, then color calibrate.

Back in the day I used Dispersant, until that got hard to get. =^..^=

[Hansoon]

Re: Question No. 1

Could you describe the method you use to warm up the drum.

I use a hairdryer for that.

Back in the day I used Dispersant, until that got hard to get

Platen Clean from Katun is a similar stuff and works the same.

Hans

[subaro]

Re: Question No. 1

Huh? I've never tried those things. [blackcat]. What do you mean blackcat. are you reffering to warming up the drum.

I use the hair dryer to warm remove labels from the covers of the machine, and it is fantastic in fact the best i have seen to remove labels fast. but on the drum i never attempted that, as to the high heat it would be subjected too and possible damage.


Hansoon, you actually answered one question i would have posted later on. hair dryer to remove labels outside the machine. thanks for replies .

[Hansoon]

Re: Question No. 1

Hansoon, you actually answered one question i would have posted later on. hair dryer to remove labels outside the machine. thanks for replies .

OK, what's my prize and where to collect?



Hans

[allan]

Re: Question No. 1

I agree with BC those drums are not as sensitive. I have polished a lot of drums. I have used paraffin on machines before and it cleans really well . Thanks for the tip i will get some again and use it on a drum. Its a lot cheaper than the alternative.

Metal polish like Brasso works well for severe cases, very good to clean CD's and DVD's.



I use this stuff from time to time.
download (2).jpg
Clear nail polish. The color does not matter the clear stuff just applies better.
I sure u guys know what its good for?

[subaro]

Re: Question No. 1

I agree with BC those drums are not as sensitive. I have polished a lot of drums. I have used paraffin on machines before and it cleans really well . Thanks for the tip i will get some again and use it on a drum. Its a lot cheaper than the alternative.

Metal polish like Brasso works well for severe cases, very good to clean CD's and DVD's.



I use this stuff from time to time.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]28942[/ATTACH]
Clear nail polish. The color does not matter the clear stuff just applies better.
I sure u guys know what its good for?

I know some who use brasso. But nail polish to do what , clean the drum. I know in electronics, some use it as a sealant for exposed circuit board traces, and things like that. How does it applies to remove label and its residue. Or are you refering to nail polish remover, which is a mild form of acetone, if i am not mistaken.

Hansoon wants the prize, maybe you can beat him to it. He did not pass go as yet, therefore cannot collect. still guys out there with fantastic ideas.

[allan]

Re: Question No. 1

Well if you manage to scratch or chip the drum... (OK sorry so not realty relevant here) or you find a chipped or scratched drum, you coat it with a tiny bit of this stuff. Charge does not affect it and toner does not adhere to it, so instead of making black mark the area would be void. It does leave blank spots, but on the side of the drum or with a really small chip you would not even notice it.

[subaro]

Re: Question No. 1

This is the method i use. similar to allan and blackcat. I use a chemical that techs should recognize or be familiar with. It's called SEL SOL. This stuff is amazing, in fact the best i know for roller cleaning and general copier cleaning ect. It will remove caked toner from fuser plates like butter and will not harm plastic at all, no melting and no smell [ odorless ]ect. I however don't like it as a chemical and what it can do. It can penetrate even hard epoxy and soften it. Therefore want to avoid getting on skin which on frequent use eventually does. Also when cleaning rollers, the ones that is fitted tight on the shafts [feed ect], if apply too much and let it run on the roller, if penetrates between the roller and shaft and eventually the roller spins on the shaft and therefore paper jams.

So what i do, is take a piece of transparency or mylar and dip the edges on the sel sol and work the label from one edge and letting the sel sol between the label and drum.
the sel sol works fast in removing the label. Then with a soft cloth with very little sel sol clean the drum of the glue and finish of with alcohol. The thing wit sel sol ,when the alcohol touches it, it evaporates instantly.
In fact, if you have glue on anything and you apply sel sol and then apply alcohol, it immediately forms into a gel that you can just wipe off with a rag and finish of with alcohol. As with any chemical i advise downloading the msds sheet and checking its hazard ratings. also sel sol is not flammable.

Hopes this may help others, as this is what my intention is here.

Cleaning Solvent Sel-Sol - Aftermarket - OEM# 8560014 - Parts Now

[Iowatech]

Re: Question No. 1

I haven't tried to clean OPCs very often.
The last time I think I tried that was on an AF350 where the foam that cleaned the charge roller had turned into goo and gotten on the drum. The drum was in pretty good shape otherwise, so I cleaned the goo off with alcohol and then ran a bunch of sky shots (I don't remember exactly how many, but it was at least twenty and possibly as many as fifty). That appeared to work pretty well.