[Misc] IPF8000S to 8100 Build

[FL2D]

Hi all,

My question is probably a little strange and hopefully in the right place. I picked up a pair of IPF printers the other week as I wanted a 12 colour pigment ink printer.
Both machines had been sitting for an unkown period of time.

IPF 8100 12 colour, This machine had be stored in an garage unit and had be subject to dust and other worldly unkowns, powered up ok
IPF 8000s 8 colour, This machine had be stored in a well kept print shop and was very clean, powered up ok but printheads appear to be shot.

So I bring them both home and decide to turn the 8000s into an 8100!

First job was remove and strip the ink tanks on both machines, rebuilt them carefully using the best parts for the machine build, not to tricky and well worth the time. (8100)
Second job remove the tube assembly's and clean. Noted that the difference between the two is at the top manifold. So changed the mounting plate and line groups at that point, leaving the carriage and smaller line groups intacked, flushed ink out.
Third job was to change the Main PCB and the Maint Cart PCB from the 8100 to the 8000s
I know the are serveral settings in the service menu I need to run through to set the machine up after I finish changing componants,

I just wondered if there is anything else I need to Know/change from the 8000s to the 8100 to finish the job any input would be useful

Very gratefully, Darren

[FL2D]

Re: IPF8000S to 8100 Build

Hi All,

I hate to bother you all again. Could someone shed a little light on special service mode. I have to replace the main PCB on the 8100.

In the service manual it says

b) Replacing the main controller PCB
1) Turn off the power and disconnect the power plug.
2) Replace the main controller PCB.
3) Reconnect the power plug and turn on the power while pressing the [Paper Source] and [Information] keys. (Start the printer in PCB replacement mode.)
4) Release the key, but not before making sure that "Initializing" appears on the display. (The message lamp lights when printer enters PCB replacement mode.)
5) Wait until "REPLACE MODE" appears on the display.
6) Select CPU BOARD and press the [OK] key.
7) Turn off the power, but not before making sure that "Power off" appears on the display.
8) Turn on the power.
9) Check the firmware version. If the firmware is not the latest version, upgrade the firmware to the latest version.

I have tryed this with no luck it just starts in service mode. I have also read the following which is different to the above

1. PCB replacement mode
This mode is used when replacing the main PCB or MC relay PCB.
By executing this mode,
- Backup data of the settings and counter values stored in the MC relay PCB are moved to the new main PCB.
- The data such as the settings and counter values are copied to the MC relay PCB.
a) Entering the PCB replacement mode
Follow the same procedure as that for entering the service mode.
(With the "Paper Source" button and "Information" button pressed down, turn on the "Power" button.)
When the printer starts up, compare the serial number memorized in the main PCB's EEPROM with that memorized in the MC relay PCB's EEPROM. If
they do not match, or no serial number is memorized in either EEPROM, enter the PCB replacement mode.
While you are in the PCB replacement mode, the MESSAGE LED, roll media LED, and ONLINE LED are lit.
b) Procedure
Select "CPU BOARD" or "MC BOARD" using the [ ] and [ ] buttons, and then press the [OK] button to determine it.
- CPU BOARD
Select this after replacing the main PCB.
The data in the MC relay PCB is copied to the main PCB.
- MC BOARD
Select this before replacing the MC relay PCB.
The data in the main controller PCB is copied to the MC relay PCB.
c) Exiting the PCB replacement mode
Turning off the Power button of the printer allows you to exit the PCB replacement mode.

Following this method I still cannot find the PCB or MC replacement modes. I have called canon for a service engineer but they are not returning my calls as they say they will with pricing guides etc.
I would be grateful for your help and if someone is interested in helping I will return the favor if you know what I mean

[FL2D]

Re: IPF8000S to 8100 Build

UPDATE ...

Hopefully this may help others that attempt to build/rebuild an IPF8000 series printer or have to replace parts light M/B or MC PCB's or even work on the ink system.

The job itself is not a hard job to do but you will find that you have questions like the one I have asked.

Firstly special service mode for changing PCB's is not something you will find a good explanation on how it works in the service manual.

instead, upon changing the Main Board try this. Start the machine in service mode and you will automatically be shown the PCB replacement menu. select either the MC or MB serial number and the machine will automatically copy the info over for you. JOB DONE! You can then go back to the service menu and follow the setup procedures for the other machine componants, ie, optical axis, left turning, cr motor cog to name but a few

If you are concidering extensive work on an 8000 series it is well worth your time to strip the ink system completely. This I would strongly recommend if the machine has been sitting for any lenght of time.
Pay close attention to the ink tank needles, making sure that there is no dryed ink on them (causing your ink tanks to leak) and or slug in the bottoms of the capture reservoirs that sit below the ink tanks, the reservoirs use rubber gaskets and seals that clean easily and can be re used without issue. Each needle contains two small o'ring seals, make sure they go back in the right place.

It takes about 4 hours to remove strip, rebuild and reinstall one bank of tanks.
TAKE CARE WHEN REMOVING THE ASSEMBLY'S TO KEEP THEM UPRIGHT UNTIL YOU HAVE ALL THE INK REMOVED! I would also recommend removing the ink tanks if you are moving the machine any distance after it has been in service, it could save you massive head aches and cleanup.

be very careful when you start the machine after rebuilding it that it doesn't go into LONG replenishing cycles. 1 it will use tons of ink, and 2, it means there is a problem with the printer.

Causes for this may include:
Blown printhead,
Printhead not heating properly, (Printheads can also overhead to the point the you cannot tought them)
electric signal fault at the printhead
Some of the above will not give you a fault code, the machine will just sit there and eat ink

As an experiment I have fitted last chance filters (because Canon couldn't be bothered) in the ink tubes, there is plenty of room to do this in the cavity's at each end of the machine. They are 5um or micron filters supplied by PORVAIR and so far they are working well. This does not effect the priming of the machine in any way and may hopefully make any new printhead investments last longer.

If there are any error with my post I'm sure someone will point it out, It never fails!
I hope this helps a member and stops them from having any major problems.
This work is not for the faint hearted, only attempt this if you are competent with a screwdriver and lots of small componants

[blackcat4866]

Re: IPF8000S to 8100 Build

Congratulations on your success! =^..^=

[FL2D]

Re: IPF8000S to 8100 Build

Congratulations on your success! =^..^=

Thanks for that blackcat, i'm very grateful.
I've just been doing some printing tonight and all seems to be in order.

[martyk79]

Re: IPF8000S to 8100 Build

I know this is an old thread but hoping FL2D is still around.

I'm working through a similar build at the moment and just wanted to check, did you install the 8000s main pcb in the 8100 printer? If so, how did you go with flashing the correct firmware to the main board after the swap?

Cheers.