irC5180

[D_L_P]

I have one that the job is fine when they print from their computer. But from the glass the colors are washed out/faded.
I just replaced all 3 color drums and ran the full calibration. The black has less than 20k. Any ideas?

Explaining shortcomings of equipment to customers has never been a strong spot for me. I know Computer(RGB)->copier(CMYK), then back to scanner(RGB)->copier(CMYK) isn't going to produce the greatest results. And its business color.
However, he has played with all the colors and made a preset for this job, so all he has to do is bring up the memory 1 and run it from the glass and it actually looks fairly close. I asked why he doesn't run it from the computer since the colors are bright crisp and pretty darn good. He told me it takes too long for the job to print. So, I need to find out why the last time he ran the job it was fine and now they are washed out, or figure out how to get him to lower his expectations.

[KenB]

I have one that the job is fine when they print from their computer. But from the glass the colors are washed out/faded.
I just replaced all 3 color drums and ran the full calibration. The black has less than 20k. Any ideas?

Explaining shortcomings of equipment to customers has never been a strong spot for me. I know Computer(RGB)->copier(CMYK), then back to scanner(RGB)->copier(CMYK) isn't going to produce the greatest results. And its business color.
However, he has played with all the colors and made a preset for this job, so all he has to do is bring up the memory 1 and run it from the glass and it actually looks fairly close. I asked why he doesn't run it from the computer since the colors are bright crisp and pretty darn good. He told me it takes too long for the job to print. So, I need to find out why the last time he ran the job it was fine and now they are washed out, or figure out how to get him to lower his expectations.

How do you know that he hasn't tweaked the heck out of his printer settings?

He may be getting what would actually be a good copy from the glass.

Do you have another 5180 to try some of his originals with to compare?

[teckat]

[QUOTE=D_L_P;128750]I have one that the job is fine when they print from their computer. But from the glass the colors are washed out/faded.
I just replaced all 3 color drums and ran the full calibration. The black has less than 20k. Any ideas?

Explaining shortcomings of equipment to customers has never been a strong spot for me. I know Computer(RGB)->copier(CMYK), then back to scanner(RGB)->copier(CMYK) isn't going to produce the greatest results. And its business color.
However, he has played with all the colors and made a preset for this job, so all he has to do is bring up the memory 1 and run it from the glass and it actually looks fairly close. I asked why he doesn't run it from the computer since the colors are bright crisp and pretty darn good. He told me it takes too long for the job to print. So, I need to find out why the last time he ran the job it was fine and now they are washed out, or figure out how to get him to lower his expectations.[/QUOTE

what settings are stored/ color adjustments ?? how many times has he scanned the original print on the glass ??

Clean optics/glass both sides/do a CCD adjust
Run your Full calibration procedure from control panel/under add functions
also get a Kodak Grey Scale and use it to calibrate the Firey

[SCREWTAPE]

We have to keep in mind that scanning an original from the glass is going to lose clarity and saturation. Reasons being, Scanning from the glass only gives you 600 dpi resolution and when you scan a document with only 600 dpi resolution its going to come a bit grainy the dots per inch are not going to be as close.

When we print however, you get 1200 dpi resolution ,so of course its going to look better, the dot per inch are closer.

Now when you say light copies off the glass. I would have to see a image of that fault to determine. You really should bring back the machine to default state by initializing and work from there on.

Yea, you can do some shading correction with ccd adjustments. After, do an auto gradation . But it seems your problem is more of a reader issue. If printing is ok then focus on the reader.

[D_L_P]

Thanks guys, I found a setting that worked a miracle. Special features-> page down-> image adjustment-> one-touch color-> Vivid colors.
He had election thing with a lot of red, white, and blue. From the computer it was red, white and blue. But from the glass it was maroon, white and purplish and very, very faded looking. Lucky for me he showed me where he was tweaking the colors.
He had been going into Spec feat.-> p.d.-> I.A.-> color adjust and messing with each individual color to get it just right, then going into the memory mode and saving it as M1. He uses recall a lot and has M1, M2, M3, and M4 stored for other different jobs. Originally, he brought up M1 as usual and it was crappy. So now M1 is stored as Vivid colors and all is happy. Dodged a bullet there!

[teckat]

Thanks guys, I found a setting that worked a miracle. Special features-> page down-> image adjustment-> one-touch color-> Vivid colors.
He had election thing with a lot of red, white, and blue. From the computer it was red, white and blue. But from the glass it was maroon, white and purplish and very, very faded looking. Lucky for me he showed me where he was tweaking the colors.
He had been going into Spec feat.-> p.d.-> I.A.-> color adjust and messing with each individual color to get it just right, then going into the memory mode and saving it as M1. He uses recall a lot and has M1, M2, M3, and M4 stored for other different jobs. Originally, he brought up M1 as usual and it was crappy. So now M1 is stored as Vivid colors and all is happy. Dodged a bullet there!

Another End User success story !!!!!!!!!