Timing on the paper feed assembly (Konica 7145 copier)

[copytechman]

Pepper is correct there are some cases where a tds sensor (or other screws for that matter) on a dev unit are not magnetic, can be brass or something else... Not too often tho, the top 3 screws on the dev on a bh200/222 series aren't magnetic (a pain) and others are. As for the IP431, no I don't have software for it. I only have IP432's, IP422's, 423's and 424's around here (for those series of boxes anyway).. does the machine go into the print mode when you press the print button on the control panel? Does it say ready to print? Can you print out the test prints from the printer menus?

Regards!
A.

[eurosears]

Going back to the TDS sensor for a minute: Is there a way to test the TDS sensor performance without having the toner installed? I will be getting a new sensor soon and I will replace the old one (cracked), I just want to make sure I will not waste my developer if something goes wrong? I am not worried about the sensors performance really but I am more concerned with the fact that I did a factory reset of the copier recently and I wonder if nothing within the system (after the reset) will prevent normal operation of the L-detect procedure. I will be installing the 26NA88041 sensor instead of the older model 26NA88040 which I had before.

No, the printer menu doesn't work. I can't print anything using the serial, usb and network cable. But my computer does recognize the printer using the serial cable (and possibly USB, can't remember now) and I can open the network page using the copier's IP number on my computer.

[copytechman]

The network page is built into that machine even without an ip installed.. your sure you have an ip installed right? It goes into a recess on the left hand side rear of the machine.. There's no real way to test the tds sensor itself outside of the the l-detect or running the dev and putting a meter the sensor's output... Just checked... My service book doesn't list the IP431 as the proper controller for your 7145... only an IP432 should work.. At least according to my book. Your sure its an IP431?

A.

[eurosears]

You are right. I don't have the board. I thought that I had it because I have a network plug (its on the same side as the serial, parallel connection, left side of the copier when you look at its back).
I don't have an IP board in the slot on the right.
Once I install the IP-432 board into that slot should the PRINT and FAX options become available automatically on the copier or do I need to do anything extra (like update the firmware) to turn these options on?

Concerning the TDS sensor. RIght now, when I go into L-detect and do an L-detect procedure my sensor shows me Result 0006, L detection 043
If the sensor would operate correctly the L detection should be somewhere between 055 and 075, is that correct?
I have the error message "Adjust L detect" turned off on the copier, but it does come on even after doing the l detect procedure. That's, I presume, because the sensor is broken.
This is what I am planning to do once I receive the new sensor.
1. Remove the old sensor
2. Clean the developing unit out of the old developer
3. Install the new sensor using magnetized screws
4. Add the developer, equally, spread it, etc.
5. Insert the developing unit with the new developer and sensor into the copier
6. Run the copier and go into menu 36
7. Run the L detect procedure
8. Turn off and back on the copier and see what happens
I assume that the copier should automatically enter into the copy mode and no L detect warnings should come on

Is this correct?

[pepper38_cnd]

If you are getting a 0006 the sensor in the Drum carriage could be dirty or you could have a high voltage problem or your drum may not be turning. There are other things required before L Detect happens if they don't happen you get an almost instant 0006 and L Detect is aborted. I also recall you said this machine was transported laying down a lot of dev may have spilled out of the dev assembly polluting your paper feed section and possibly your HV Board giving you all kinds of problems, not to mention L Detect will abort if there is too little Dev in the Dev unit.

[eurosears]

(Well last time I cleaned the drum so that shouldn't be a problem. The copies are fine, no problem there either. I replaced the developer last time so the amount is fine.
Could this be a problem with the broken TDS sensor?)

UPDATE: I read substantially about this problem and it seems like most people have it when the sensor above the drum is dirty or the drum has problems spinning. In my case, I am 100% sure I didn't clean that sensor so I am going to do that today and update my post.

So, if I clean that sensor (and presumably that was the problem) what should the value of the result be if I run another L detect WITHOUT replacing the developer?

[copytechman]

No ip=no print, also fax is a separate option.. once installed the buttons should work.. I'd go ahead with the procedure you've decided to try.... it'll work.. or it won't...

Regards!
A.

Regarding the l-detect w/o dev.... dunno never tried it.... I'd wait till you've got it together properly b4 trying it....
Good Luck!

[eurosears]

So I took the drum unit out and removed the drum. Now I see that white sensor in the middle and I also noticed a lot of tonner or developer in a collection area at the bottom of the cutting blade.
Can I clean that out?
Also, it says that I need to coat the drum and blade with setting powder. Do I really need to do that? What kind of powder is it?

[copytechman]

You can but you need a proper toner vacuum for that and if u do you need to be uber careful of that sensor as well.. static sensitive too.. your supposed to use setting powder so when you reinstall the drum, that the blade doesn't basically stick to the drum and flip when the drum rotates (think of it as a kind of um drum lubricant).

Regards!
A.

[eurosears]

Also there was a larger spring that feel out when I was removing the metal cover that keeps the corona in place. It was somewhere on the left side, on the back of that cover, where the two screws secure the cover in place. I see the two other springs of similar size inserted in two holes on the left. Do you have any idea where it goes?

[copytechman]

I'm not sure which spring that your referring to. There is one spring that sits @ the front of the corona that the cleaner rod goes through (and the rod is secured via a small plastic clip to the corona cleaner itself). That spring wedges between the plastic post and small square (approx 1/2in) metal plate/assy that a twist of the spring can be turned into a little bit. Its right near where the 2 wire connector for the pcl lamp plugs into the front of the drum unit. (the cleaner rod goes right through the center of the spring). Kinda hard to describe.. its not crucial to the operation of the corona unit tho and have seen many without it... can you describe the spring shape and size a little better?

A.

[eurosears]

The spring is cilindrical throughout most of its length but its diameter starts decreasing towards one end.
Well, I cleaned the sensor on the drum and put everything together (leaving that one spring out). I ran the L detect, ran for like 2.5 minutes and gave me OK. So now the Result is OK and Detection is at 086 (before this value was 046). I turn on the 16-3 switch and don't get "please do L detect" message anymore. So this is fixed.

However, now my prints look bad. I have various areas on the printed pages with large black elongated spots or lines. If I ran 25 or 50 copies these black spots/lines mostly go away but the pages are still somewhat dirty and some lines do stay (even though they are not to wide anymore). However, when I do each copy at a time these lines areas remain. When I turn the copier off and on and go print again I have again a lot of dart spots/lines. What could that be? I cleaned only the sensor and the area just across the cleaning blade, but not the cleaning blade. I think it may have to do with the L detection, which I ran twice (so the copier adds more toner than is necessary)

I should mention, If I make a regular 8.5x11 the lines are parallel to the 8.5 dimension of the paper, from time to time I also see one line parallel to the 11" dimension. The position of these lines changes when I turn off and turn on the printer.

[fishleg]

The spring you are refering to I believe is the one that puts pressure onto the cleaning blade should be two either end of the metal piece you take out if you want to replace the cleaning blade.

2 screws take the corona off, Take drum out, then if you tip it on its side you should see another two screws either end of the drum just below where you took the corona off. It looks like one big strip of metal on the underside of that is where your mysterious spring sits and that puts pressure onto the blade so if one is missing you would get streaks as your blade is not touching the drum properly. I think they sit under a screw so you should be able to loosen it and put it back in.

That would be my guess thats the only spring on that unit that matches what you are talking about you've been very unlucky as out of the hundreds I have done I have never had it fall out once. You should of definately cleaned out your drum unit though you have been very lucky to have got away with an L-detect with a full drum usually errors out if you dont clean out the drum first plus all that old toner will mix with your new dev.

Good luck.

[eurosears]

Dear fishleg,

I don't think you are thinking about the same spring. I saw the spring fall out when I was removing the charging unit from the drum assembly. The spring feel out somewhere from the back left side of the charging unit, where the two small springs hold the charging control plate. I am not sure if the spring was on the drum unit or the charging unit. I should mention that I removed all four screws (2 on each side) from the charging unit prior to taking it off so the endings were slightly loose.

Relating to the bad copies, the charging control plate feel off the little springs and I had to reattach it.

Any ideas about the location of this spring and also about the quality problem with my prints?

[pepper38_cnd]

You do not have to remove any screws in order to remove the Charge Corona, just the cleaning shaft, the spring is at the end the cleaning shaft goes thru it. My recommendation is call a qualified tech!