"Rebuilding" a C203

[EarthKmTech]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

none of it is very hard at all, other than on the wallet.

pay special attention when inserting the new belt that it does not get gouged by the right side door, release the strap and cover the door in paper to be doubly sure - it's your dime. I've done it a thousand times and dont need to be careful but I have seen people destroy a perfect new belt at this critical time.

[MFPTech]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

it looks like you forgot the fuser in that list...

[Bubblesquah]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

it looks like you forgot the fuser in that list...

I didn't forget it - it still has half of it's life indication left.

I considered it, but wasn't sure if it made any sense to replace at this point or not. Are you suggesting to do it now?

[allan]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

You should get away with that. your pictures is very low res. so difficult to see the quality of the transfer belt. Replace it but keep the old one. they are tuff and outlasts a couple of iu changes.

Remember the green stuff on the drums are photosensitive to try to keep it out of light as much as possible. Direct sunlight could destroy it.

[Desert Rat]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

All of this thread is great information. The fuser reset fuse is buried in the harness in the back of the fuser. It is green in color.
The transfer belt also has a fuse. The fuse is hard wired into the harness. It is possible to just bend the ends of the new fuse and cram it into
the ends of the old one without cutting the harness. Works for me, as long as the fuser rollers are in good shape
It is an 80ma fast blow fuse. It is located behind a small plate on the front right corner. It has
two metal contacts. I think it only has one small screw holding it in. I am doing sorta the same thing with a BHC351, older yet.
But it gets little use and I bought it for $100 and that included delivery. It has worked well for about 1.5years. Now I need to replace
a drum and do some other stuff to it also. But for a $100 it has been a good little copier. When I need to replace the fuser assy.
I will just get another machine for less than the cost of the fuser.

Good luck

DR

[CompyTech]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

Looks like you've done good for yourself... That's not the most terrible machine to work on. Heck, I've got a small realtor that's still using a c252(gen below yours). We do the scheduled maintenance, PM parts etc. and hope n pray it doesn't break(or they buy a new machine).. If you replace those parts your machine should run good. I wouldn't worry too much about the fuser till it breaks. One thing I would do If you don't run it that often is to run a Stabilizer once a week to keep the toner running thru. On this series you can just open and close the front door to initiate Stabilizer.

Good Luck.

[habik]

"Rebuilding" a C203

Agree with the stabilisation! The toner can compact and cause all sorts of trouble, usually non OEM. Make sure you give each TONER cartridge a good shake before you put if IN machine!!
Can send you link what can it cause if the toner auger/ hopper gets blocked. Word of advice, should this happen and you'll hear solid loud ratchet noise- immediately switch the machine Off! (Gears skipping and it will start shaving otherwise) . NOW UNPLUG THE COPIER FROM MAINS!!!and the fun part: There is top tray (grey) where paper falls when printing. On left are 3 screws for black LH side panel and under 3 screws for the grey tray. Remove the tray and that gives you access to toner hoppers from top. Pull toners out fully and the Imaging Units only about an inch or two (the rear bottom seal of toner hopper will shut) Now get 2 feet of a inch hosepipe in the main hose of vacume cleaner and seal it with sellotape. The other side of the hosepipe cut under 45 degree angle for easier control of suction. Get a torch and shine from front on let say Bk hopper top opening. Put the vac on full and with left hand hold the hose with right hand open RH side door and start turning the Transfer belt main drive White Gear (it has a C-clip). Try both ways and as you do so keep looking at the Bk hopper and start sucking all the Bk toner by touching just with half of the hose, so you can see the amounts of toner. When it seem clear. The hopper/ auger is empty and probably unblocked.
Stage 2:
To clarify this lift the hose up and push in the IU K all the way. Now the hopper is open from bottom and if you try to suck again it will start pulling toner and dev from IU K.
If you see toner flying again into the vac hose you know that auger is clear as it is now pulling from IU so can move the torch to cyan and so on.
Just one thing!!! Be careful to do it only lightly on stage 2, as it may pull more dev and cause print quality issues!! Half a second or so Also be aware that since you are creating a particles storm inside the vacum cleaner tube you'll get static shocks from it. So if you are sensitive to this DO NOT DO IT!!! You have been warned!

Hope someone finds this helpful. So far this technique helped me twice. 3x I had to put machine in bits.

Also these machines Main drive motor is usually starting to fail around this time. Easy to replace, just lots of back covers screws. Other than that, nice machine.

Good luck, mate!


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[Bubblesquah]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

Also clean the laser slit glasses.

Working on cleaning this morning as parts should arrive today. Have the field service guide, so no problems so far.

But unable to find anything about the laser slit glasses. I suspect this is on the PH assembly? Would you mind describing exactly what to do with this? I could probably figure it out, but I don't want to make any mistakes with $2,000 worth of parts on the way..

Thanks!

[Bubblesquah]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

Get a torch and shine from front on let say Bk hopper top opening.

Propane or butane?

[MFPTech]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

Konica calls lasers as Print Heads, which is pretty stupid in my opinion, but you are right, laser units are the PH units.

[allan]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

Konica calls lasers as Print Heads, which is pretty stupid in my opinion, but you are right, laser units are the PH units.

Well Kyocera calls that a scanner.

Look in the compartment infront if you open the first drawer for the tool.

[habik]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

Working on cleaning this morning as parts should arrive today. Have the field service guide, so no problems so far.

But unable to find anything about the laser slit glasses. I suspect this is on the PH assembly? Would you mind describing exactly what to do with this? I could probably figure it out, but I don't want to make any mistakes with $2,000 worth of parts on the way..

Thanks!

Hope this lights up things a bit



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[habik]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

Propane or butane?

Liquid paraffin works a treat. Not bad for a foreigner.


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[allan]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

Well Kyocera calls that a scanner.

Look in the compartment infront if you open the first drawer for the tool.

Oops this ones in the door.

[Albonline]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

Fuser shows 1 block under half "empty" at this point. I was thinking about doing the fuser too, but assumed there was no benefit to doing it early. Looks like fusing units go for about $490.

But now you have me thinking again. My thinking has been that there really isn't anything else to break on this - but I'm not the expert, so I could be wrong. We are probably what you would consider very light users - the counter is just now hitting 130,000. I would expect another 55,000 to take us at least 3 years. Does any of that change you opinion on anything? I assume the ADF on the C203 will fit the C224e?

Are there any other benefits to the C224e like longer life/cheaper consumables?

Thanks, I appreciate your input!

toner rocks come into play on low volume, low color use units, c203 was a solid unit but is near end of parts availability would try to up to c220 series at least. the c224e is not a proven runner, family has had some pretty serious issues.