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Nice! Let us know how those field trials go. =^..^=
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
I work out my best ideas on the long commute home. Driving occupies about 30% of my attention. The other 70% can roam freely.
Initially I had envisioned something pliers based, but could not figure a simple way to keep the two parts aligned. Maybe something like this?:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31931[/ATTACH]
Thought about doing something along the lines of pliers or clamp.
The problem is making it universal for various size feed roller plastic hubs and the diameter of the hole for the metal drive shaft. Then I would also have to carry around another bulky item in my tool case. Any more than 100yards carrying my tool case and vacuum to an office and my arm falls off.
I have a couple of other ideas floating around up there in the neural network. If I get time I'll knock up a drawing.
Inauguration to the "AI cancel-culture" fraternity 1997... •••••• •••[§]• |N | € | o | M | Δ | t | π | ¡ | x | •[§]••• ••••••
Thought about doing something along the lines of pliers or clamp.
The problem is making it universal for various size feed roller plastic hubs and the diameter of the hole for the metal drive shaft. Then I would also have to carry around another bulky item in my tool case. Any more than 100yards carrying my tool case and vacuum to an office and my arm falls off.
I have a couple of other ideas floating around up there in the neural network. If I get time I'll knock up a drawing.
How about the C-clamp design with a set of different sized bottom dies the attach to the clamp like a trailer hitch (square shaft and pin or set screw)? Or perhaps that bottom die might have the ability to expand within a certain range, like a heavy duty stainless hose clamp for example? Or even better yet, what if the bottom die was hinged, two parts that could open/close by a thumb screw. Like this:
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
How about the C-clamp design with a set of different sized bottom dies the attach to the clamp like a trailer hitch (square shaft and pin or set screw)? Or perhaps that bottom die might have the ability to expand within a certain range, like a heavy duty stainless hose clamp for example? Or even better yet, what if the bottom die was hinged, two parts that could open/close by a thumb screw. Like this:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31933[/ATTACH]
=^..^=
There is lots of good ideas there. I feel the G-clamp is over size an is a tad too slow when your in a hurry.
I believe your first initial push plunger is still the quickest method, we just have to work on the die mechanics.
Hint :
Think 4 point cone shape (eg drill chuck), when pushed into another cone shape cylinder it will close up with pressure.
We just need to place a spring around the chuck-cone to hold all jaws insitu when you push the feed tyre into it. I have a metal picture of 3 or 4 different chuck-jaw configurations in mind.
I feel this concept my or may not work fully. I don't know for sure until I prototype it.
We probably don't need a cone shape for the pressure base as a normal cylinder would give the same pressure given the chuck is already cone shaped.
Hang on while I knock up a RAG drawing........ ....... .......
...
Think 4 point cone shape (eg drill chuck), when pushed into another cone shape cylinder it will close up with pressure.
We just need to place a spring around the chuck-cone to hold all jaws insitu when you push the feed tyre into it. I have a metal picture of 3 or 4 different chuck-jaw configurations in mind.
I feel this concept my or may not work fully. I don't know for sure until I prototype it.
Hang on while I knock up a RAG drawing
See the RAG image below:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31934[/ATTACH]
The attached image is a RAG (rough-as-guts) outline on the overall concept.
Of coarse it's not to scale....
I think this design will wedge the hub tightly so I won't pass through, but I see where you're coming from.
I agree that the tube and plunger is simplest construction, but it takes some hand strength to operate it. It's also nearly the largest tool in my case. There has got to be a smaller device that uses some leverage to make it easier to operate.
Yes I noticed that the KM-3051ci hubs are larger than the opening in my press, and are nearly as large as the tire. I don't want to risk dremelling the hole that large, and perhaps having the rubber force through. Perhaps two relatively thin forks that can slit between the end of the rubber, and the large end of the hub. Like so:
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
I thought about two pieces of flat bar with slots that grip the rubber tyre, much the same as you have shown.
Concept 2.1
Here is another general concept that might work for a period of time, I don't know how long before the jaws break off. Most people should be able to construct this version as their own proof of concept.
It just two pieces of 25mm tube, one smaller length of tube fits over top as a slip ring clamp.
I thought about two pieces of flat bar with slots that grip the rubber tyre, much the same as you have shown.
Concept 2.1
Here is another general concept that might work for a period of time, I don't know how long before the jaws break off. Most people should be able to construct this version as their own proof of concept.
It just two pieces of 25mm tube, one smaller length of tube fits over top as a slip ring clamp.
See attached image.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31938[/ATTACH]
I still have some other ideas.
One idea is making individual custom diameter nipple/rebush dies that fit inside the main 25mm cylinder/tube.
This could work with PVC or spring steel (much more difficult to work), but probably not aluminum (or aluminium). Aluminum is considerably more brittle and will bend and then break after only a few cycles.
What if you took a spring wrapped clutch spring, and found a way to wrap it tighter, or unwrap it to change the diameter?
The separate specifically sized bottom dies seem like the most practical approach. Nice artwork, by the way. =^..^=
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
What if you took a spring wrapped clutch spring, and found a way to wrap it tighter, or unwrap it to change the diameter?
[snip] =^..^=
RE: Spring clutch(see image roller_press2_1.jpg).
The slip ring moves up and down to allow the cylinder jaws to adjust to the diameter of the feed roller.
Instead of a slip ring you could get away with using the old rubber tyre off the roller hub.
HP feed rollers have a double layer rubber tyre: separate the outer grey rubber roller and place that around the cylinder jaws like a rubber band.
Re: Artwork.
It does look alright now I've had a second look. I must be getting better at it.
In a hurry I slammed the latest 2.1 image together in around 10 minutes.
Re: Individual Dies
I believe I might go with the individual rebush dies , I'll see what happens.
Inauguration to the "AI cancel-culture" fraternity 1997... •••••• •••[§]• |N | € | o | M | Δ | t | π | ¡ | x | •[§]••• ••••••
What do you think of this? It's so simple, and requires only minimal modification. Just grind the slot a little larger in a pair of standard hose removal pliers, and voila! I'm ordering a pair of these pliers on my next order:
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
What do you think of this? It's so simple, and requires only minimal modification. Just grind the slot a little larger in a pair of standard hose removal pliers, and voila! I'm ordering a pair of these pliers on my next order:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31944[/ATTACH]
=^..^=
Nice.... You may be onto a winner.
I might play around with the same or similar idea.
I have some high end spring steel here that just might do the job.
The plier-tool would only work if the Feed roller has a flange on the plastic hub to lever off.
Some ADF retard rollers do not have a flange for the pliers to lever against.
I feel the force required to remove the old roller rubber might break the plastic hub flange.
The test bench so far requires the tire be remove with a good firm press using both hands.
It's worth a try though, by all means give it a go...
Thanks for sharing.....
Inauguration to the "AI cancel-culture" fraternity 1997... •••••• •••[§]• |N | € | o | M | Δ | t | π | ¡ | x | •[§]••• ••••••
I have been playing around with various ideas for variable size cylinder formers. Along the way I accidently discovered the whole system might probably be over-kill. I threw away the outer cylinder/tube and just used the plunger all by itself. With the use of two hands on each roller it's easy to moderate to remove any size hub away from the rubber roller without any extra effort. With the Roller Plunger tool sitting in the palm of my hand, and just using my pointer finger and thumbs of both hands, I'm able to remove the rubber tyre completely. I believe it doesn't get any more efficient than that. Plus the tool will fit easier into a tool case with out the need for extra hardware cylinder/tube or rebush fittings.
See the attached 5 images for a Rubber Roller removal demonstration using various manufacturer Roller and Hub sizes :
I may need to lathe a bit more off the actual Roller-Tool second shaft at the 10mm dia step down. I need to make it longer to handle Kyocera ADF 3mm shaft and Hubs.
Just passing the info along.
I still have a couple of other ideas in play.......
That's an excellent use for opposable thumbs. I'll post back if the Hose Removal Tool works well. =^..^=
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
For those who would like to have a play around with making their own Roller Press tool.
The following image shows a simple and cheap DIY method.
If you have an old spent Phillip's or blade screw driver laying around, then trim the old driver down
on both the handle and the shaft to a length of 75mm. Add a plastic( old hub) or metal sleeve 10mm x 40 mm over the shaft of the cut down driver. You should have a simple Roller Tool for quickly separating the plastic hub away from the rubber roller.
If you decide to make the Roller Press tool shown, then post an image of your creation to the forum. I'm interested to see what other people come up with.
Inauguration to the "AI cancel-culture" fraternity 1997... •••••• •••[§]• |N | € | o | M | Δ | t | π | ¡ | x | •[§]••• ••••••
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