BP Fusing Units

[ron67601]

Wow, sounds like your in hog heaven that thar Epson.

[Imprestik]

Thanks for your opinion. Not salty, sorry if I hurt your feelings.
We do the meandering adjustment at set up. Every time a fusing unit starts rubbing on the front frame and honking the meandering adjustment comes back OK. Sometimes they shred, sometime they lock up and take out the gear. Most have been original fusing units but I am starting to see the same problem with rebuilt fusing units also. I hope that makes it clearer for you.
P.S. Theses fusing units are TRASH.

Sounds like your causing the issue yourself then....

Why on earth are you doing meadering on a brand new device or when installing a brand new fuser?

Meadering has already been done in the factory, the only time the meadering should be done is when the fusing unit is rebuilt by a technician.

There are bulletins stating this.

If you are doing complete replacement fusing units and they fail within 60 days, you should be doing warranty claims on it provided you can place the fuser back into its original box.

In actual fact, if you do a cost analysis on rebuilding to replacing entire units, it worked out to be around $60 cheaper to rebuild vs replace. We are being told to replace now the entire unit cause it doesn't add up when you include labour rates as well

[driving lots of miles]

"Why on earth are you doing meadering on a brand new device or when installing a brand new fuser?"

The reason I do it is because the first BP machine we installed was two hours away and ate the belt after two days.
About half the new machines we get in are not correct.

[ihatefinishers13]

"Why on earth are you doing meadering on a brand new device or when installing a brand new fuser?"

The reason I do it is because the first BP machine we installed was two hours away and ate the belt after two days.
About half the new machines we get in are not correct.

Same here. We had 50 brand new that we received in, setup here, and installed recently, and EXACTLY HALF of them were out of spec from the factory. Supposedly there's a fuser, now ending in DS22, that is supposed to be better than previous versions... but our issues are with existing machines, and how they're not even coming anywhere near the total life expectancy, and at what point can we demand reimbursement, or a discount on new fusers/parts, or just an overall drop in price, or something. It's getting ridiculous and customers are starting to not like the BP series for this reason.

[chubblies]

Apparently there may be an issue with overtoning. When pdi’ing, only run 25-01, not 25-02 as it might overtone. That buildup then accumulates on the separation plate and eventually scrapes the roller and digs in.

[ihatefinishers13]

Apparently there may be an issue with overtoning. When pdi’ing, only run 25-01, not 25-02 as it might overtone. That buildup then accumulates on the separation plate and eventually scrapes the roller and digs in.

A little birdie told me at Sharp told me that they're going to suggest we bump up the fusing temp in 43-1 to +5 or +10 for this issue... But I *personally* don't believe that it's going to help with the meandering issue.

[Hansen88]

Apparently there may be an issue with overtoning. When pdi’ing, only run 25-01, not 25-02 as it might overtone. That buildup then accumulates on the separation plate and eventually scrapes the roller and digs in.

I am blanking on what pdi stands for but I think the only time you should ever run 25-2 is if you replace the developer with new.

[ihatefinishers13]

I am blanking on what pdi stands for but I think the only time you should ever run 25-2 is if you replace the developer with new.

Nah, you can run 25-2, and I've had it help a lot, especially in troubleshooting. When DV/Toner gets old, you'll get those white orbs in prints, boom, 25-2, fixed (most of the time). I'm guessing they advise against it because that's how they've always been trained to do it for decades. I've run that a bunch of times over the last decade and it's done nothing but improve quality, or lead us in the right direction. 25-1 does a decent job, but 25-2 really mixes it and usually fixes those white orbs, as well as other minor DV issues. Especially now with DV not actually having a maintenance counter, it helps bring life back into the DV. Now, I'm not saying doing it all the time, but when you think the DV powder is the problem, and you want to have it at least change what it looks like before replacing a $200 bag of color DV, run 25-2, and see what happens.

[chubblies]

Nah, you can run 25-2, and I've had it help a lot, especially in troubleshooting. When DV/Toner gets old, you'll get those white orbs in prints, boom, 25-2, fixed (most of the time). I'm guessing they advise against it because that's how they've always been trained to do it for decades. I've run that a bunch of times over the last decade and it's done nothing but improve quality, or lead us in the right direction. 25-1 does a decent job, but 25-2 really mixes it and usually fixes those white orbs, as well as other minor DV issues. Especially now with DV not actually having a maintenance counter, it helps bring life back into the DV. Now, I'm not saying doing it all the time, but when you think the DV powder is the problem, and you want to have it at least change what it looks like before replacing a $200 bag of color DV, run 25-2, and see what happens.

The only difference between 25-01 and 02 is that 01 just runs the motors, whereas 02 runs the motors and also takes the t/d reference for the toner replenishment to work towards.

[iHateSharpFusers]

Something to keep an eye out for, if you have problems with a belt unit failing to adjust in 6-8 constantly returning ERROR 10 or F+4, the FBMD sensor is failing and needs replaced.

[Hansen88]

The only difference between 25-01 and 02 is that 01 just runs the motors, whereas 02 runs the motors and also takes the t/d reference for the toner replenishment to work towards.

Right, so if you are overtoned or undertoned I think if you do 25-2 it will lock into that reference. I have taken a undertoned dev unit and manually add toner to it until it looks good, then do 25-2 to lock it in there. This has worked for me.

[chubblies]

Right, so if you are overtoned or undertoned I think if you do 25-2 it will lock into that reference. I have taken a undertoned dev unit and manually add toner to it until it looks good, then do 25-2 to lock it in there. This has worked for me.

yes, that will work as by manually adding toner and then running it, it will take the reference from the newly added toner and store it, then always add toner based on the initial reference value. 25-01 just rotates, no reference taken or anything.

[bilyahn]

A little birdie told me at Sharp told me that they're going to suggest we bump up the fusing temp in 43-1 to +5 or +10 for this issue... But I *personally* don't believe that it's going to help with the meandering issue.

I have done this on previous generations of this fuser and it shortens the lifetime even more!!!

[ihatefinishers13]

I have done this on previous generations of this fuser and it shortens the lifetime even more!!!

We never had the previous gen get to the recommended replacement interval anyway, we hardly changed that setting unless paper type needed it.

[miller01123@gmail.com]

Sounds like your causing the issue yourself then....

Why on earth are you doing meadering on a brand new device or when installing a brand new fuser?

Meadering has already been done in the factory, the only time the meadering should be done is when the fusing unit is rebuilt by a technician.

There are bulletins stating this.

If you are doing complete replacement fusing units and they fail within 60 days, you should be doing warranty claims on it provided you can place the fuser back into its original box.

In actual fact, if you do a cost analysis on rebuilding to replacing entire units, it worked out to be around $60 cheaper to rebuild vs replace. We are being told to replace now the entire unit cause it doesn't add up when you include labour rates as well

The problem is in the design.
They come from the factory out of adjustment. If there is a bulletin it's wrong. What is the bulletin #?
Let me know how warrantying a fuser after you open the box from TD Synnex goes for you. You obviously have never tried to warranty something from TD Synnex after it has been used. Impossible! Let me know how you did it. I'm very interested.
It costs $437.10 to buy a new one as opposed $232.50 to rebuild. By the way the new ones we have used fail also. So cutting my losses and rebuilding seems the better way to go..