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  • blackcat4866
    Master Of The Obvious

    Site Contributor
    10,000+ Posts
    • Jul 2007
    • 22996

    #16
    How about a description?

    You'll need:
    16" length of 1/2" hard copper
    1/2" copper cap
    1/2" to 3/4" copper reducer
    3/8" copper washer
    ~18" of 1/4.20 threaded rod
    three 1/4.20 nuts
    universal/cartridge coupler & pin
    5/16" x 1" coil spring
    1/4.20 threaded knob

    It's ~16" of 1/2" hard copper soldered to a 1/2 to 3/4 reducer. Drill a 1/4" hole in the center of a 1/2" cap and solder the cap onto the other end. Then the reducer is cut in half length-wise to create the cup at the end. A copper washer is soldered to the end, then slotted to a "U" to allow the cup to slip over the shaft, behind the gear.

    Take the threaded rod and drill it to accept the pin & coupler. It's a snap fit, and you may need to disassemble later so don't glue it. Disassemble and set aside the pin & coupler.

    Slide the threaded rod through the reducer end of the copper (the pin goes at the cup end), through the cup opening string thread on two of the nuts and the spring. By trial & error position the lock nuts as a stop for the spring, allow enough room to insert a replacement gear, and enough travel to release it when it's in position. When you have it close, insert the pin & coupler onto the shaft. It took several dissassembly/re-assemblies to get the lock nuts in just the right position.

    That was the fiddley part. When you're satisfied with the positioning of the lock nuts, thread on the third nut on the cap end of the threaded rod. Tighten this last nut until it leaves enough action to hold the gear and release it. Cut off the threaded rod at the cap end, leaving enough additional thread to accept the knob. Screw on the knob and snug the third lock nut against the knob.

    Obviously the soldering has to be complete, and cooled before you can insert the plastic coupler. If you decide to try it please post a photo.

    As you can tell, I'm not much of a photographer, but I'll take another shot at it. =^..^=
    If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
    1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
    2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
    3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
    4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
    5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.

    blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=

    Comment

    • vincent64
      Trusted Tech

      250+ Posts
      • Feb 2008
      • 382

      #17
      Originally posted by blackcat4866
      How about a description?

      You'll need:
      16" length of 1/2" hard copper
      1/2" copper cap
      1/2" to 3/4" copper reducer
      3/8" copper washer
      ~18" of 1/4.20 threaded rod
      three 1/4.20 nuts
      universal/cartridge coupler & pin
      5/16" x 1" coil spring
      1/4.20 threaded knob

      It's ~16" of 1/2" hard copper soldered to a 1/2 to 3/4 reducer. Drill a 1/4" hole in the center of a 1/2" cap and solder the cap onto the other end. Then the reducer is cut in half length-wise to create the cup at the end. A copper washer is soldered to the end, then slotted to a "U" to allow the cup to slip over the shaft, behind the gear.

      Take the threaded rod and drill it to accept the pin & coupler. It's a snap fit, and you may need to disassemble later so don't glue it. Disassemble and set aside the pin & coupler.

      Slide the threaded rod through the reducer end of the copper (the pin goes at the cup end), through the cup opening string thread on two of the nuts and the spring. By trial & error position the lock nuts as a stop for the spring, allow enough room to insert a replacement gear, and enough travel to release it when it's in position. When you have it close, insert the pin & coupler onto the shaft. It took several dissassembly/re-assemblies to get the lock nuts in just the right position.

      That was the fiddley part. When you're satisfied with the positioning of the lock nuts, thread on the third nut on the cap end of the threaded rod. Tighten this last nut until it leaves enough action to hold the gear and release it. Cut off the threaded rod at the cap end, leaving enough additional thread to accept the knob. Screw on the knob and snug the third lock nut against the knob.

      Obviously the soldering has to be complete, and cooled before you can insert the plastic coupler. If you decide to try it please post a photo.

      As you can tell, I'm not much of a photographer, but I'll take another shot at it. =^..^=
      Just what is the "universal/cartridge coupler & pin"
      the rest of the parts I can sorta figure out.

      Comment

      • blackcat4866
        Master Of The Obvious

        Site Contributor
        10,000+ Posts
        • Jul 2007
        • 22996

        #18
        On the back of an old toner cartridge you'll see a sort of black and white universal joint that drives the cartridge. It mates with the shape on the end of the gear. It's just a snap fit onto the mag roller shaft. Just pry up on it carefully to pop off the universal joint as a whole, and save the pin through the shaft. Note: the universal joint is identical on both ends. It can be flipped over and works exactly the same. Does that help? =^..^=
        If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
        1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
        2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
        3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
        4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
        5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.

        blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=

        Comment

        • vincent64
          Trusted Tech

          250+ Posts
          • Feb 2008
          • 382

          #19
          Originally posted by blackcat4866
          On the back of an old toner cartridge you'll see a sort of black and white universal joint that drives the cartridge. It mates with the shape on the end of the gear. It's just a snap fit onto the mag roller shaft. Just pry up on it carefully to pop off the universal joint as a whole, and save the pin through the shaft. Note: the universal joint is identical on both ends. It can be flipped over and works exactly the same. Does that help? =^..^=
          Yes it does, and I missed out on a chance to get one off a cart yesterday too , we got a few of them BC's left, and it will make it easier on them when I have to change them gears.

          Comment

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