Docucolor 240 not imaging magenta
Recenlty cleaned both ROS units because of missing stripes in the prints. After reaasembly CYK print fine but there is nothing printing from Magenta. Switched drums, also reseated the ribbon cables leading to the YM ROS. Still no magenta.
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Re: Docucolor 240 not imaging magenta
May be ROS, may be magenta developer assy.
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Re: Docucolor 240 not imaging magenta
Currently back inside the ROS and I'm wondering if I put one of the mirrors in wrong. Checking in reference to the CY ROS now to verify mirrors match. I know if one is turned 90 degrees out it won't print.Comment
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Wrong mirror install !!! Mirror under magenta glass with spring.Comment
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My name Peggy.
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Re: Docucolor 240 not imaging magenta
Ha Ha very funny Ianizer but I had alreay done it that way to no avail. It was necessary to open the tops and clean internally as the toner fog had made its way to the mirrors inside. After further inspection of the mirrors within eac ROS I concluded all were installed properly yet still no Magenta. Any further advice would be appreciated.
I am ready to engage captain.Comment
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Re: Docucolor 240 not imaging magenta
why dont you check if the magenta developer and drum are turningComment
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Re: Docucolor 240 not imaging magenta
Oh wow, you remove the mirrors and lenses to clean them? I've had to clean my ROSes (ROSi?) more often than I would like to think about, but I never remove the mirrors or lenses out of the ROS housing. Seems very very fragile. I just take the top cover off and use a Q-tip which I wrap in a moist eyeglass lens cleaning cloth to wipe along all the various mirrors and lenses. It has worked every single time, first time with no lint and no streaking.
On a side -- but related -- note: The big box suction/ozone filter on the side of the machine... Is that the "main" filter for preventing ROS contamination or is there some other trick to eliminating (or at least slowing down) the contamination?Comment
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Re: Docucolor 240 not imaging magenta
I thought removing the lensi from the ROSi a bit odd too, but just kind of went with it... The suction filter does collect a lot of toner... The best solution I've found for ROS contamination, really, is just fastidious service... A key being to replace developer chemical at a reasonbly frequent interval... The 1M recommended developer cycle is a bit unrealistic, at least in my environments. -IMy name Peggy.
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Re: Docucolor 240 not imaging magenta
I did notice the suction filter is ducted pretty much directly to the BLACK developer/drum area, but not so much the color stations or ROS area. But there is an article is Searchlite that mentions "to maximize ROS life, always change suction filter at HFSI interval." Have to admit I didn't use to bother, but I do now. The toner in it is almost always pure black...
Speaking of developer, though, I think that one might be even more key. I recently replaced my developer material for the first time, at 2 million prints (!!). Even at such a high print count, the print quality was still flawless, but the top of the developer assemblies and the drums would get very dusty really quickly. (After just a few thousand prints, even.) After replacing the developer (but using the same developer assemblies) that didn't really change. So I replaced the developer assemblies, again with new developer, and low-and-behold, everything stays pristinely clean inside. So even though the assemblies didn't seem to have any wear or damage, the mag roller (or something) must have been wearing out. The HFSI for the developer assemblies is 1.5mil, so I think I'll do it at 750k or 1mil to be safe from now on.Comment
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dc252 line
Curiouser & curiouser...
I have change a few housings (flimsy mylar seal on cover is, rediculouly, not spared); but found a developer change generally corrects a problem child...
Incedentally, my group just had our collective pee-pee whacked for not changing filters often enough and keeping our BCRs clean, in response to our incessant whining about the brevity of color drum life. I wonder if this is a common complaint...
I really think developer abrasion has something to do with it...
I'm interested, Caff, what is your experience with XRX? Might be a brain I'd like to pick...
-IMy name Peggy.
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Re: dc252 line
That was exactly the problem I was having. When the machines were new, the color drums would last their full cycle and (since I have the NVRAM set to not stop when expired) would go for an incredibly long time even after they expired. It had gotten to the point that my color drums never lasted their full cycle even. And those buggers are expensive!
I'm sure the filter helps, but again, it seems primarily focused on the black drum. Never had any trouble with the black drum, partially since it doesn't even have a charge roller.
The problem as I saw it was that as the developer assembly aged, it would create too much dust. This dust would get up onto the felt pad which rubs against the charge roller. After it builds up enough, it would actually "scour" the charge roller, creating streaked prints. No recovery once this has happened. (Side note, the 700 and 550/560 drums are identical to the 250/7665 drums except the felt pad that rubs against the charge roller is itself now a felt ROLLER. No more scouring.)
I've also found that just changing the developer material usually solves all problems, but it didn't this time. As I mentioned, even with nice fresh material in there (and I cleaned out the assembly really well and carefully when removing the old material) it would still create lots of dust in all colors right away. Once I changed the assemblies (and another new round of developer material, unfortunately) they stayed finger-lickin' clean.
On another semi-related note... If anyone is using "generic" toners you are asking for trouble. Xerox's EA toner is bizarrely "dust free" compared to other toners. Even other brand-name toners like Konica and Ricoh and Canon. (Not just the cheaply made generics.) This is because it HAS to be, since they use charge rollers rather than corotrons for the C, M and Y positions. Most other mid-production level machines use corotrons for all four colors, and since there is no physical contact with the OPC drum, they can deal with a tiny bit of dust. It will either transfer to the paper on the next print (but no where near enough to actually see on a print-by-print basis) or will get caught by the cleaning blade next time around, rather than picked up by an in-physical-contact charge roller like the 250/7665/700/550/560. With the right toner, Xerox's method is perfectly fine. But it is MUCH more particular about the properties of the toner than any of the other majors brands are. It is also what allows lower power usage since charge rollers are more efficient than corotrons in terms of the amount of juice they require to do their job. By only using the corotron on the K position, they reduce power consumption. (For example, though it hasn't been released in the US yet, in Japan there is a 70ppm color & 75ppm black version of the 50/55ppm 550 and 60/65ppm 560. The lower melting temperature toner helps a lot, but having only 1 corotron (K) is also partly why they can have a 70/75ppm machine on only a 110v circuit. If they had corotrons for all four color positions, they couldn't do it at 110v.)
Anyway, sorry, I babble. A lot.Comment
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Re: dc252 line
Oh, about the mylar seal... I've bumped into that one too. The trick is, when you are screwing the top cover in place, to NOT push the cover down tight as you tighten the screws in. The natural inclination is to hold the top cover on snugly against those foam seals as you tighten the screws, to seal up the assembly better, but this causes abrasion against the mylar seal and eventually rips it off, it wraps around your drum, usually causing the drum's cleaning blade to flip, etc etc. Bad day.
Once you snap the top cover of the developer assembly into place, and line up the hole to put the two screws in, just tighten the screws as-is, without pushing the top cover on any tighter with your other hand. It is still sealed against the foam plenty well, and I've never once had the mylar come off since doing it that way.
For what it's worth...
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Re: dc252 line
Great tip. I'll keep it in mind. An ounce of prevention... yada-yada-yada...Oh, about the mylar seal... I've bumped into that one too. The trick is, when you are screwing the top cover in place, to NOT push the cover down tight as you tighten the screws in. The natural inclination is to hold the top cover on snugly against those foam seals as you tighten the screws, to seal up the assembly better, but this causes abrasion against the mylar seal and eventually rips it off, it wraps around your drum, usually causing the drum's cleaning blade to flip, etc etc. Bad day.
Once you snap the top cover of the developer assembly into place, and line up the hole to put the two screws in, just tighten the screws as-is, without pushing the top cover on any tighter with your other hand. It is still sealed against the foam plenty well, and I've never once had the mylar come off since doing it that way.
For what it's worth...
Indeed, a pickable brain. You are my new best friend... (Stalking laws may vary from state to state [/disclaimer].)
But to careen recklessly back on-topic, if Magenta (the hot pink one) was imaging prior to tech-monkey intervention, and is not imaging now, Troubleshooting Law dictates the problem likely exists in the area of tech monkeyage.
-IMy name Peggy.
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