Tips on canon models

[Canuck]

i heard the same thing (WD40 or triflow) from my panasonic training instructer. Would not let myself believe that LOL. ima give it a shot soon.
Any of you guys hear of sel-sol? it actually has an oily feel to it, but that is what i have always used. if anyone has used both pls say what works better.
i already have a tube of tranny fluid in my kit too, went right out and got some after reading this post the first time. thanks for the tips guys!

I have used sel-sol....works temporary. I f you want to soften rubber rolls use brake fluid...it has oils in it to soften the rubber. Thats why cars use it..keeps seals in master cylinder and wheel cylinders soft. Great on tires also...prevents sidewalls from cracking

[SCREWTAPE]

Here's a tip on a C5051

Do not attempt to pull off connectors when changing film unit, the heater will crack.
Its a quite expensive piece. Check the snap shots of what I'm talking about.

[teckat]

OUCH'

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Yea $357.00
And that's dealer cost.
Canon, you gotta love them.

[D_L_P]

Had another ir7105 with Saddle Finisher V1 having an intermittent E540 (Tray A lift motor). Turned out to be the switching regulating PCB for both of them (not mentioned as a possible cause in the manual).

Both were intermittent and seemed to throw the code often (but not always) when brought out of sleep mode or when 1st turned on. The 1st one we tried the sensor, motor, and main controller, but when we learned about the sleep mode thing it led us to the switching regulator. The second one we went right for the switching regulator and been working fine for couple weeks now.

[SCREWTAPE]

Had another ir7105 with Saddle Finisher V1 having an intermittent E540 (Tray A lift motor). Turned out to be the switching regulating PCB for both of them (not mentioned as a possible cause in the manual).

Both were intermittent and seemed to throw the code often (but not always) when brought out of sleep mode or when 1st turned on. The 1st one we tried the sensor, motor, and main controller, but when we learned about the sleep mode thing it led us to the switching regulator. The second one we went right for the switching regulator and been working fine for couple weeks now.

I had a slimilar issue except I was getting a E551 with the E540 and E542.
In my case I had to replace the fuse PCB and the regulator.

[Tricky]

I must say, I had a tech that told me once that WD40 was good to use on pick up rollers and feed roller plus vertical path rollers. He said it rejuvenated the rubber. I was skeptic with his tactic, but I tried it on a pair of some used feed rollers and vertical path rollers and it did what he said it would do. A little dab of WD40 on a rag and as rub it in it rejuvenates the rubber. You must rub it in to point where as you can feel the rubber getting sticky, it does not cause the rubber to be slippery and it doesn't stain paper either. It dries up as you rub it into the rubber and gives it that new rubber feel. Unlike alcohol, which dries up the rubber, in some circumstances WD40 on rubber such feed, pick up, and vertical path rollers has help me. To those who might be skeptic, try it first on some used parts such as, feed, pick up, and vertical path rollers. Trust me it works.

What about the rubber rollers inside transfer belt assemblies, I tend to use alcohol on these?

[teckat]

alcohol/ no no on rubber/ it dries out rubber

[smiley]

try citrus oil in rubber roller of the itb.

[mrfixit51]

Fuser pressure roller longevity...

Something we have been doing for about 6 years to increase the life of pressure rollers is to peen the shaft of the roller to create a tighter fit between the shaft and the inner race of the bearings. You all have seen the rollers that failed because the shaft spins inside the bearing, chewing up the shaft. Some people actually lubricate the shafts, which seems counter productive to the bearing in the first place.

My first attempt was to use thread locking compound, Loctite, to try to keep the shafts from spinning in the bearing. It worked better than bare shafts did, but I was still not happy. Next I decided to go "old school" on these rollers. Peening is an old metal workers trick. Take a set punch and hammer, and make three "dents" in the shaft equally spaced around the diameter of the shaft. You will now need to drive the bearing on the shaft as the effective "O.D." of the shaft has increased. It is best to use an old bearing or a socket wrench socket to use as a drift, so you don't damage the bearing. This effectively makes the bearing's inner race do the rotational duties, not the pressure roller shaft.

We do this on field rebuilds as well as when setting up a brand new copier. It takes longer during the setups, but pays dividends in time later on in increased life of the pressure roller.

[D_L_P]

Excellent idea! +rep

I'll be out in my garage tonight hammering all my LFR's. Customers always seem to give me the fish-eye when they hear me hammering something in the office!

[teckat]

If I carry a punch and hammer (Burglar Tools) through a metal detector in NYC/ I'll have to answer at least 20 questions at the gate/ It's bad enough with a backpack-tool case/ meter/loose wires/ & handcart/ to get through.

whoo wah'

[mrfixit51]

If I carry a punch and hammer (Burglar Tools) through a metal detector in NYC/ I'll have to answer at least 20 questions at the gate/ It's bad enough with a backpack-tool case/ meter/loose wires/ & handcart/ to get through.

whoo wah'

Your mileage may vary!

I used to service a state prison, many moons ago, and had to inventory every tool in, and out, of the facility. I quickly put together a minimalist service case just for that account.

[davidj7]

i usually take the lower roller to a workshop where they put on a metal cylinder over the shaft and the lower roller shaft is as good as new and costs me $1 per side.

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Registration issues on IRC3200,3220,4080,5180

Tips on how to resolve registration issues.

http://www.copytechnet.com/forums/canon/34309-canon-irc3220.html