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You have to compare the current voltage settings with the factory adjustment value under state confirmation.
Sometimes i find that these values have been tweaked a bit and that will lead to quality problems.
Never ever change the main charge manual adjustment.
If that is not between 108 and 112 it could have been adjusted already.
I always do the grid manual adjustment with the tester as per the voltage on the drum flange.
If you are using non original toner you can expect that machine to dump toner.
If you are getting less that 30K prints a month on a machine i would suggest changing the developer every 100K prints.
Make sure the contact on the toner recycle roller on the side is making good contact.
Also check the quench lamp under the T/S unit if that lens is dirty underneath put it off clean it and stick it back on there.
There is some dip switch setting to consider depending on the use of the machine.
Its a tricky one this box.
You have to compare the current voltage settings with the factory adjustment value under state confirmation.
Sometimes i find that these values have been tweaked a bit and that will lead to quality problems.
Never ever change the main charge manual adjustment.
If that is not between 108 and 112 it could have been adjusted already.
I always do the grid manual adjustment with the tester as per the voltage on the drum flange.
If you are using non original toner you can expect that machine to dump toner.
If you are getting less that 30K prints a month on a machine i would suggest changing the developer every 100K prints.
Make sure the contact on the toner recycle roller on the side is making good contact.
Also check the quench lamp under the T/S unit if that lens is dirty underneath put it off clean it and stick it back on there.
There is some dip switch setting to consider depending on the use of the machine.
Its a tricky one this box.
Add to this drum and developer grounds, developer mag angle and h-cut blade settings, and you can get them to run relativly clean ,provided customer isnt useing crap paper loaded with dust.
Add to this drum and developer grounds, developer mag angle and h-cut blade settings, and you can get them to run relativly clean ,provided customer isnt useing crap paper loaded with dust.
Jip, good advice.
I always test the dev bias. It should be blow 80ohms as per KM.
Sometimes i will use a piece of stainless wire from the bias connection to the shaft bypassing the bearing.
Then there is the magnet angle adjustment. The white plastic piece with the angle gauge.
Never touch it!!
Like I have posted here many times before, this was a POOR design of this machine to recycle the waste toner back into developer !!! The machine would of been so much better with a waste btl. The main problem is paper dust contaminating the developer, depending on the quality paper customer is using. I think there are soft switch settings to change the cleaning rollers to stay on and cut down on toner density.
The jamming issues with this series is for another topic.....
There is an easy way to get the cleaning roller to run continuously.
Just unplug the clutch.
It prevents the cleaning section from filling up with toner.
There is an easy way to get the cleaning roller to run continuously.
Just unplug the clutch.
It prevents the cleaning section from filling up with toner.
You have to compare the current voltage settings with the factory adjustment value under state confirmation.
Sometimes i find that these values have been tweaked a bit and that will lead to quality problems.
I took over these machine from a retired tech 4 years ago, I Did 250PM 4 times and 500PM 2 times all original.
I have done only the Auto Drum Pecu everytime i touch the Process Unit.
I'm not sure how to access the original/factory adjustment settings.
If possible, maybe you can shed some light on how to do this?
Never ever change the main charge manual adjustment.
If that is not between 108 and 112 it could have been adjusted already.
And if it has been changed?
I always do the grid manual adjustment with the tester as per the voltage on the drum flange.
I've been wanting to do this because it's on the manual but i have never did.
I want to do it during the next 500K PM, When Replacing New Drum and Main Charger.
I only have the cheap Cen-Tech Digital Multimeter from Harbor Freight.
And it says on the back "Do not test voltages over 750 VAC or 1000 VDC" to prevent serious electric shock.
Can you recommend a good Make and Model of Tester? maybe similar to what your using...
And in what positions you set it on when you check the voltage on the drum flange?
If you are using non original toner you can expect that machine to dump toner.
Previous tech did use Katun, but i've been using only TN-710 for 4 years now...
If you are getting less that 30K prints a month on a machine i would suggest changing the developer every 100K prints.
Do you mean 30K prints then dirty copies (copy quality)? or Machine is just making 30K prints a month?
One machine is making 15K per month and other machine makes around 25-30K a month.
The machine that does 15K copies craps less but make more dirty copies than the machine that does 25-30K that craps more but no dirty copies.
(Talking about the dropping on top of the Transfer/Separation Unit.
Make sure the contact on the toner recycle roller on the side is making good contact.
Which electricity lubricant you recommend that i can use for good contact?
Also check the quench lamp under the T/S unit if that lens is dirty underneath put it off clean it and stick it back on there.
I usually just blow canned air on it, while the machine is powered-off.
Any recommendation how to clean that lens?
Also what do you use to clean the Laser Unit glass and the Sensors on the TCSB?
Thanks again my friend...
There is some dip switch setting to consider depending on the use of the machine.
Its a tricky one this box.
look under service mode > State Confirmation >Adj Data Table.
It will show current setting and shipment value.
If the main charge value is not the same as the shipment value set it back.
You tester should be good enough if it can handle 1000V DC.
It should be set to voltage DC and auto range.
Fluke testers are the best but very expensive. Talk to your local electrical supplier about a good tester.
For cleaning the contacts electrical contact cleaner applied with a cloth should be fine.
I would remove the T/S unit from the machine before blowing it out.
For cleaning the plastic lens use a dry cloth.
For the Laser glass a soft cloth damp with alcohol will be ok.
For the image sensors a soft dry cloth or if its suborn dirt a little saliva work well.
The soft switch setting will change the why the machine does process control and can help for low volume use.
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