KM C1060 - Drum Life

[OverKnight]

Anyone have any input on extending the drum life on a C1060 that primarily runs heavy weight, 11x17 label stock? Drums only last about a year and half, with maybe twice that based on color. Magenta and Cyan are the first to exhibit quality issues, although these two colors are the most utilized.

As they wear, toner starts spilling or the drum wears around and into the non-image areas. As you can see in the picture, the drum itself runs well, but outside the non-image area(s) seems to wear quite a bit. I removed the drum to see the wear level is on all internal parts and this would confirm why there is an issue with the sides.

YellowDrum.jpg

Could there be something that needs to be replaced and causing this premature wear to occur or it's just the nature of the products being made? Personally, I don't think it's going to get better based upon the product being made. Runs are short and are always the same weight and dimensions.

Thanks!

[Afanasy]

Re: KM C1060 - Drum Life

Hi, so if you check the condition of the lubricant bar and brush roller at least once every half of the life of the unit and change them when worn, then it is possible to extend the life of the drum.

[OverKnight]

Re: KM C1060 - Drum Life

Hi, so if you check the condition of the lubricant bar and brush roller at least once every half of the life of the unit and change them when worn, then it is possible to extend the life of the drum.

Afanasy, while it's not normal practice to breakdown a drum, I have seen the aftermarket parts for the brush roller and lubricant bar. Taking the drum apart is no fun either. LOL

Have you any experience with this practice?

[blackcat4866]

Re: KM C1060 - Drum Life

I have been into these drum units. In a pinch when I was out of C1060 drums, I could sub in C1060L drums. You do have to take care not to remove certain adjustment screws ... sorry I can't be more specific. I can't remember if they've got red paint or not.

[OverKnight]

Re: KM C1060 - Drum Life

I have been into these drum units. In a pinch when I was out of C1060 drums, I could sub in C1060L drums. You do have to take care not to remove certain adjustment screws ... sorry I can't be more specific. I can't remember if they've got red paint or not.

Yeah, I know of the prohibited part of the drum that is a factory set alignment. It's the two top black shims that bear on the developer unit. I don't want to take the top shims apart, but it looks like it would be necessary in order to replace anything more than drum.

The bottom black shims hold the distance between the coronas. These bottom ones are easily self-aligned and are necessary to remove the drum bearings.

Popping the drum out, I just remove the front side bearing, move out of the other bearing and then lift the drum out. Once you get a peek inside, things don't look good and it's likely drum wear has been created thereby affecting quality anyway. This is something of a last resort to evacuate any build up inside and inspect, but only prolonging the inevitable. It will run cleaner for a while, but any depression on the brush roller and no lubrication is going to continue to worsen the situation.

[wjurls]

Re: KM C1060 - Drum Life

You can replace the drum cylinder itself without disturbing the alignment. To replace the blade and lubricating bar requires the precision aligned spacer brackets to come off. Best to paint mark the brackets so you can properly locate them upon re-assembly.

[Afanasy]

Re: KM C1060 - Drum Life

Afanasy, while it's not normal practice to breakdown a drum, I have seen the aftermarket parts for the brush roller and lubricant bar. Taking the drum apart is no fun either. LOL

Have you any experience with this practice?

Yes, I have such experience, many times I changed the cleaning blade, brush and lubricant. There is no need to remove the plastic eccentric completely; it should be left on one screw. It is not the bearing that needs to be removed, but the side ends by removing 4 screws. In addition, you need to remove the blade springs, its screws and the cleaning unit gearbox. This procedure takes a lot of time, but it can really help.