BH-423/363, Good, Bad, or just not so Ugly...?

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  • blackcat4866
    Master Of The Obvious

    Site Contributor
    10,000+ Posts
    • Jul 2007
    • 22997
    #16
    Re: BH-423/363, Good, Bad, or just not so Ugly...?

    Originally posted by JR2ALTA
    The feed units come out THE FRONT...saints be praised.

    But yes, the thermostats primary function is still to scratch the UFR
    Speaking of ... has anyone tried using the Chinese aftermarket heat rollers? I've always thought that I could get another 250K from the fusers if the aftermarket rollers were any good. By the way, the bizhub 500 heat roller claws seem to fit. =^..^=
    If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
    1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
    2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
    3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
    4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
    5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.

    blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=

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      • JR2ALTA
        Service Manager

        Site Contributor
        1,000+ Posts
        • Feb 2010
        • 2030
        #17
        Re: BH-423/363, Good, Bad, or just not so Ugly...?

        I have not but I wouldn't discourage anyone from demanding just warranty returns for this incompetant crap

          Comment

          • Hansoon
            Field Supervisor

            Site Contributor
            2,500+ Posts
            • Sep 2007
            • 3373
            #18
            Re: BH-423/363, Good, Bad, or just not so Ugly...?

            I use Katun (I dislike that company for their ignorant after sales support but, anyway....) after market rollers intended for the Di-3510 and they function just as "well" as the original OEM on the BH-350 and later series. Much cheaper than throwing the whole fuser unit into the bin otherwise.

            Takes about twenty minutes for a trained technician to replace that UFR. Take care not to loose the carbon tip of the sliding ground terminal which rides at the front of the UFR. Before starting make a picture of the routing of the wires at the front of the unit to get them back in the proper place again later on.

            I push with a wooden match (soft wooden stick as not to damage the orange foil. Toothpicks are not soft enough) the little bulb of the thermistor sensor - which sits in the middle of the "cushion" of the thermistor assembly - as much as possible back, so it will not protrude too much casing those rings or scars.

            On the BH-350 series I have been able to replace at least 3 times the UFR before the plastic of the fusing unit disintegrates.

            BTW: Densi might have a good after market roller too I've heard.

            Hans
            Last edited by Hansoon; 10-19-2014, 08:17 AM.
            “Sent from my Intel 80286 using MS-DOS 2.0”

              Comment

              • Mr. Joshua
                Technician

                Site Contributor
                • Nov 2011
                • 31
                #19
                Re: BH-423/363, Good, Bad, or just not so Ugly...?

                I work on a lot of these.

                Belly finishers suck.

                Rebuild the fusers with knockoff UFR. If you can get away with raising the temp +5*C when they're young they last longer.

                Drums last much longer than life but replace them before they wear through and arc and you can often get 2:1 drum to developer life.

                Beware J99-01 on the 423 only. I often write-off 9901s as user BS when I only see them in the management list and never hear about them. On the 423 though there is an additional sensor to accommodate the extra speed and this can cause 99-01s as well.

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