"Rebuilding" a C203

[habik]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

Just give all the toners a good shake every now and then, whether in machine or new ones put in!


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[nmfaxman]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

I would order a set of feed rollers and or ADF rollers.

[subaro]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

But unable to find anything about the laser slit glasses. I suspect this is on the PH assembly? Would you mind describing exactly what to do with this? [ from the owner of the post on one of his replys ]

I think this question was not answered in detail. It is a good question as the results of doing it properly pays dividend.

Habik did make some pics on an earlier thread here, but the actual process is not really explained. when i use to work on the c350, i found just cleaning with the rod and cleaning paper provided was not enough. maybe km techs can provide their procedures. correct me if i am wrong in saying that the led need extra cleaning other that the tool and pad provided with the machine.
The floor is open. speak

[habik]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

But unable to find anything about the laser slit glasses. I suspect this is on the PH assembly? Would you mind describing exactly what to do with this? [ from the owner of the post on one of his replys ]

I think this question was not answered in detail. It is a good question as the results of doing it properly pays dividend.

Habik did make some pics on an earlier thread here, but the actual process is not really explained. when i use to work on the c350, i found just cleaning with the rod and cleaning paper provided was not enough. maybe km techs can provide their procedures. correct me if i am wrong in saying that the led need extra cleaning other that the tool and pad provided with the machine.
The floor is open. speak

You are correct of course, however the taken out of laser units is a painful procedure plus the cleaning tool does the job pretty decently. Always make sure the pad is clean of any dirt (blow it with duster) then do couple of swipes inside and pull out and blow the pad off again for next laser. All together 4x cleaning the pad.

I would not recommed pulling laser units out as it may knock the SOS mirror inside if they haven't been upgraded. ( the COLD weather issue) but... that was very long time ago and if no C455x codes are in history then he should be fine.

Just keep it simple, i'd say. IDC's are more important then super clean laser window.

[CompyTech]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

You are correct of course, however the taken out of laser units is a painful procedure plus the cleaning tool does the job pretty decently. Always make sure the pad is clean of any dirt (blow it with duster) then do couple of swipes inside and pull out and blow the pad off again for next laser. All together 4x cleaning the pad.

I would not recommed pulling laser units out as it may knock the SOS mirror inside if they haven't been upgraded. ( the COLD weather issue) but... that was very long time ago and if no C455x codes are in history then he should be fine.

Just keep it simple, i'd say. IDC's are more important then super clean laser window.

Agreed about IDC, that series has finicky sensors. A guy I used to work with, carried extra pads for the PH jig in his tool case. He would always use a little drop of alcohol on the pad to clean it. Usually this would ruin the foam on the pad so there for would need to be replaced. Usually a few swipes(dry) does the trick and alcohol is not needed. The C280 series has the cleaning jig built in, but it seems as KM went back to the design of separate cleaning jig for the new boxes.

[subaro]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

But unable to find anything about the laser slit glasses. I suspect this is on the PH assembly? Would you mind describing exactly what to do with this? [ from the owner of the post on one of his replys ]

Thanks habik for your response. Years ago when working on the kyocera fs-5016 series colour printers which used led print heads, use to encounter all kind of print quality issues, which we would replace dev,drum transfer belt ect . and quality issues would still be a problem. off course cleaning the print heads which were told to only use the cleaning rods that was on the machine.
Had one case that after swapping out parts only came to one conclusion and it was the printhead. It was not defective, but on closer examination with a 10x magnifier saw a buildup of i guess toner dust that formed a harden crust. I cleaned half of it and examined again and what a diffrence, cleaned the whole thing all four leds and really a big diffrence in the print quality.
AT the same time we had a few bizhubs, and i noticed the same thing. i cleaned he print heads without removing them from the machine. It was a using a product that did not scratch the surface of the led and with a little bit of patience colour reproduction was fantastic.
I am done with this thread now and hope more people can input their take on this.

Just add this. Alchohol is a good cleaner, but not for everything. Over the years through trials and error i have developed my own " secret formulars". that i use appropriately. Unfortunately, i do not share those secrets as yet.
definitely alchohol is not good for rubber rollers, there are lot better eco friendly procduts that do a much better job.

[Desert Rat]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

Great post everyone. Thank you. I learned a lot.

DR

[JrTech]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

I almost did not respond to this thread but I must put in my 2 cents on this as I am a strong advocate of OEM supplies. Let me explain with scenarios I have dealt with in my years in sales and service. I am 100% all for spending the extra $50, $100, $150 what ever it is to purchase the OEM supplies vs Generic or if I can purchase out of the trunk of a tech I am never opposed to that as well. My time as I am a contractor in the Washington DC area is worth a heck of alot more than saving a few bucks and having the FUD (Fear Uncertainty Doubt) factor wondering if it is gonna hold up. I just did a Ricoh MPC 2500 overhaul on a machine with 150k on the meter over a 4 year period and was called in after the end user tried to perform his own PM. I was called in for copy quality (CQ) and machine just stopped working and threw a code pertaining to the developers locking up. I opened the machine to see generic toner and asked the important question of when did you start having these issues. Come to find out that this is his 2nd round of generic supplies for the Cyan and Yellow as they were much cheaper. Long story short his $150 savings just cost him $2300 in parts as color drums are $500 each, black is $200, transfer belt and cleaner and oh his developer motors have damage. Machine was down for 4.5 weeks before I got to it so not only his parts but time he could not use machine as well. This is just one example of many I can write about but you get my point. It is NOT worth it. Just bite the bullet, pay a little more, call is done move onto the next one.
One thing to point out if you are not listening to what I am saying and are going for the generic supplies ask around to local dealer or techs to see what they have experienced with particular brands or you will waste lots of money trying to figure it out yourself. Look at fail rates.

If you are in need of a contractor in the Washington DC area please PM me and I will be happy to assist.

[Bubblesquah]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

Ok, it is all done. I forgot how nice this thing can actually print.

Here is another question - something that I've noticed over the years, did not just start happening. Pages of print are "twisted" relative to the actual paper by about 1mm on 2 edges of an 11x17 page. I.e. if I'm holding a page where I've printed a solid block of color:

- at the top, the distance between the edge of the paper and where the color starts is a consistent 8mm all the way across.
- at the bottom, the distance between the edge of the paper and where the color starts is 6mm at one corner and about 6.8mm at the opposite corner.

The sides are the same - one side is even all the way across, the other side is off by almost 1mm.

I never notice this unless I am cutting. Is there some way to adjust this?

[blackcat4866]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

Someone else will have to pipe up on this one, but to me it sounds like a fuser motor speed adjustment. The theory is that the leading edge hits the registration roller squarely, but since the fuser is a little slow in taking up the paper, it buckles the paper incrementally more toward the end of the 11 x 17 page. It can also throw off your image registration at the trailing edge of prints. Additionally you may see what Toshiba calls "dogleg". Essentially, at the moment the trail edge of the paper releases from the registration roller, the paper shifts, creating a distinct angle in the straight lines running in the feed direction, ~30mm from the trailing edge. =^..^=

[allan]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

A good exercise would be to redo your print and scan area adjustments, dont know if it would do you any good but your borders and sizes would be good. Look in you manual under adjustments and settings then service mode and machine.

I agree with BC that the is something going off between the registration and the fuser.

[Synaux]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

First, this is the same is pretty much the same engine as the c252, right?

Ok, it is all done. I forgot how nice this thing can actually print.

Here is another question - something that I've noticed over the years, did not just start happening. Pages of print are "twisted" relative to the actual paper by about 1mm on 2 edges of an 11x17 page. I.e. if I'm holding a page where I've printed a solid block of color:

- at the top, the distance between the edge of the paper and where the color starts is a consistent 8mm all the way across.
- at the bottom, the distance between the edge of the paper and where the color starts is 6mm at one corner and about 6.8mm at the opposite corner.

The sides are the same - one side is even all the way across, the other side is off by almost 1mm.

I never notice this unless I am cutting. Is there some way to adjust this?

8mm seems like a lot--should it not be closer to 4mm?
Lead edge shouldn't be over 7mm, check your Lead Edge Erase Adjustment setting.
I would ensure that the fuser is set correctly along with the conveyance section rollers.
In agreement with everyone else; I believe the setting you want to pay special attention to is the "Paper Feed Direction Adj" in Machine in Service Mode.

To be honest though, this is a consistent issue with Konica machines--.5-1mm deviance on 11x17/12x18's is to be expected. Furthermore, you would go mad fine tuning every setting per paper type and even every ream of paper--even on high quality papers, the cuts are rarely exactly the same case-to-case or even ream-to-ream.

But unable to find anything about the laser slit glasses. I suspect this is on the PH assembly? Would you mind describing exactly what to do with this? [ from the owner of the post on one of his replys ]

I think this question was not answered in detail. It is a good question as the results of doing it properly pays dividend.

Habik did make some pics on an earlier thread here, but the actual process is not really explained. when i use to work on the c350, i found just cleaning with the rod and cleaning paper provided was not enough. maybe km techs can provide their procedures. correct me if i am wrong in saying that the led need extra cleaning other that the tool and pad provided with the machine.
The floor is open. speak

With the IUs out you can actually half-ass blow off/vacuum the glass prior to using the pad (saves pads) then I use an old pad first with a drop or two of alcohol (if I deem in necessary) and use a screw driver on top of the pad to add a little pressure (if you somehow break/scratch the glass don't blame me). Switch jigs and clean with a new/near new pad to clean off any residue.

Edit: I typed all that and it doesn't look like that method works with these models--only on models that you can directly see the glass from taking the IU out.

There are of course caveats to taking out the PH, but sometimes it is necessary. I once had one of those pads screw up completely and it got adhesive all over the Magenta glass (c650). I was forced to take the PH out and clean it by hand--probably a good thing seeing how there was debris build up along the sizes of the glass.

[habik]

Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

First, this is the same is pretty much the same engine as the c252, right?



8mm seems like a lot--should it not be closer to 4mm?
Lead edge shouldn't be over 7mm, check your Lead Edge Erase Adjustment setting.
I would ensure that the fuser is set correctly along with the conveyance section rollers.
In agreement with everyone else; I believe the setting you want to pay special attention to is the "Paper Feed Direction Adj" in Machine in Service Mode.

To be honest though, this is a consistent issue with Konica machines--.5-1mm deviance on 11x17/12x18's is to be expected. Furthermore, you would go mad fine tuning every setting per paper type and even every ream of paper--even on high quality papers, the cuts are rarely exactly the same case-to-case or even ream-to-ream.




With the IUs out you can actually half-ass blow off/vacuum the glass prior to using the pad (saves pads) then I use an old pad first with a drop or two of alcohol (if I deem in necessary) and use a screw driver on top of the pad to add a little pressure (if you somehow break/scratch the glass don't blame me). Switch jigs and clean with a new/near new pad to clean off any residue.

Edit: I typed all that and it doesn't look like that method works with these models--only on models that you can directly see the glass from taking the IU out.

There are of course caveats to taking out the PH, but sometimes it is necessary. I once had one of those pads screw up completely and it got adhesive all over the Magenta glass (c650). I was forced to take the PH out and clean it by hand--probably a good thing seeing how there was debris build up along the sizes of the glass.

C650 PH Unit is a piece of piss to take out in comparison with C353 series. Plus you have to lift the opening on each of the print head and hold it steady then screwdriver on top ... If they really need quality I rather pull it out completely and give it proper clean. Then of course adjust the Color Registration to 0 0 0 after stabilisation reset -+1 but so far had it only once. Customer didn't want to spent money on Fiery but wanted to print like with one. Nuts.




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