I am currently trying to rebuild a 620 fuser for the first time. I broke the longest lamp trying to disassemble it. That one was probably my fault. Ordered what I thought was the longest lamp, ended up with the shortest. (Follow the picture, not the description) Ordered the right lamp. Then, trying to put this POS back together, I twisted the end off the small lamp, with what i felt was EXTREMELY little toque to the end. I thought, "How fortunate, I happen to have a spare one of those..." So, I replaced that one, and being UNGODLY CAREFUL, broke the end off the medium lamp trying to get the damn thing to line up back in the heat roller. I'm sacred to touch this MF again! Is there a trick I am missing?
620 Fuser issues.
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Re: 620 Fuser issues.
I'll qualify this by saying that I don't have any Harrier2s. But on the Harrier1s I've rebuilt dozens of fusers with no problem. You just don't know your strength. Have you started weights lifting lately? =^..^=If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^= -
Re: 620 Fuser issues.
Blackcat;
I'm guessing you are referring to what I would call a CS 6030. Unfortunately, they changed the style of the lamps for the 620/820. These lamps come with an "L" shaped connector on one end, with little solder to compensate for torque. With only two in the field, our solution, at this time, is to just buy the fuser whole when we need a replacement.Comment
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Re: 620 Fuser issues.
I think I know what you're talking about. Last time I had to pull one apart, I held the end of that L connector with my forceps while removing the screws to prevent it from twisting. Then just make sure not to tighten them down too hard.I must have a prodigious quantity of mind; it takes me as much as a week sometimes to make it up - Mark TwainComment
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Re: 620 Fuser issues.
The connectors on these lamps have a release lock that must be depressed before pulling it out, I've replaced a couple of them in the field and have been pretty good on not breaking it (other than the very first, but I did have a spare used FK I got the lamp out of. We normally don't rebuild them though, since Kyocera likes to keep their PM and MK kits in warranty for only 60 days, so we just order the whole thing, alot faster and alot easier.Comment
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Re: 620 Fuser issues.
Blackcat;
I'm guessing you are referring to what I would call a CS 6030. Unfortunately, they changed the style of the lamps for the 620/820. These lamps come with an "L" shaped connector on one end, with little solder to compensate for torque. With only two in the field, our solution, at this time, is to just buy the fuser whole when we need a replacement.If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=Comment
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