Converting a Ricoh PU3040 punch unit

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Zak McKracken
    Junior Member
    • Jun 2022
    • 5

    #1

    Converting a Ricoh PU3040 punch unit

    I wanted to upgrade my used Ricoh MP C3003 with an SR3130 internal finisher, preferably with the optional punch unit, and I took quite a journey to get what I wanted. I ended up ordering lots of parts from eBay, and here's what I've learned. Hopefully, this information is useful to other people.

    The SR3130 finisher's punch unit option is the PU3040 and it comes in three variants:
    Punch Unit PU3040 NA, code D716-17
    Punch Unit PU3040 EU, code D716-27
    Punch Unit PU3040 SC, code D716-28
    The first one is for the North American market, capable of punching holes for the 2- and 3-hole binders commonly used in North American.
    The second one is for the European market, capable of punching holes for the 2- and 4-hole binders commonly used in Europe.
    And the thrid one is for the Scandinavian market, capable of punching holes weird 4-hole binders commonly used in northern Europe.

    All three variants are identical, except for one sub-assembly:
    D7167017 PUNCH UNIT:NA:ASS'Y
    D7167027 PUNCH UNIT:EU:ASS'Y
    D7167028 PUNCH UNIT:NE:ASS'Y

    When shopping for a PU3040, it is important to get the version appropriate for the binders used in your country. But it is equally important to know that the sub-assemblies above are often advertised as complete PU3040 punch units, while in fact they are not.

    Since these sub-assemblies are available as replacement parts, it is possible to convert one variant to another. The 2/3-hole selection on the NA variant is done by running the motor in one or the other direction. The same goes for the 2/4-hole selection on the EU variant. The SC variant can only punch 4-holes, so it runs the motor in only one direction.
    Even though there's no mechanical difference, the copier needs to 'know' what variant is installed, so the software can offer the proper options to the user. A PU3040 NA (code D716-17) with a D7167027 sub-assembly works perfectly, but the display panel will only allow 3- and 4-hole punch options, with depictions accordingly.
    For punch options in the printer driver, it gets even uglier: The (PostScript) printer driver offers all capabilities of the three variants together, but no holes will be punched if 4-holes is selection for a PU3040 NA, even if it has a D7167027 sub-assembly installed. The user had to know to select 3-holes in order to get 4-holes.

    Fortunately, this can be changed. Even though the sub-assembly is the only difference between the different variants, the copier can still distinguish the variations by means of the DIP switches on board D5875200 on the punch unit. This is NOT documented in the service manual, so here are the settings:
    D7167017, SW1: Off On Off Off
    D7167027, SW1: On Off Off Off
    D7167028, SW1: On On Off Off
    PU3040NA.jpgPU3040EU.jpgPU3040SC.jpg

    So, for example, a PU3040 NA can be converted to a PU3040 EU by replacing the D7167017 with a D7167027 and toggling two DIP switches

    Finally, when shopping online for a PU3040 (and/or a SR3130), make sure to find a full upgrade kit, as they contain all parts required to install them. Parts salvaged from torn-down machines are often incomplete, as it is not obvious which parts are necessary to upgrade a machine that never had it installed.

    For anybody interested: I still have a lot of spare parts. I find it a bit of waste to throw them away, so please let me know if anybody has some use for them. I think then can make a full PU3040 NA (or a PU3040 SC).
  • GIUBOSS
    Service Manager

    Site Contributor
    1,000+ Posts
    • Jul 2013
    • 1385

    #2
    Re: Converting a Ricoh PU3040 punch unit

    Originally posted by Zak McKracken
    I wanted to upgrade my used Ricoh MP C3003 with an SR3130 internal finisher, preferably with the optional punch unit, and I took quite a journey to get what I wanted. I ended up ordering lots of parts from eBay, and here's what I've learned. Hopefully, this information is useful to other people.

    The SR3130 finisher's punch unit option is the PU3040 and it comes in three variants:
    Punch Unit PU3040 NA, code D716-17
    Punch Unit PU3040 EU, code D716-27
    Punch Unit PU3040 SC, code D716-28
    The first one is for the North American market, capable of punching holes for the 2- and 3-hole binders commonly used in North American.
    The second one is for the European market, capable of punching holes for the 2- and 4-hole binders commonly used in Europe.
    And the thrid one is for the Scandinavian market, capable of punching holes weird 4-hole binders commonly used in northern Europe.

    All three variants are identical, except for one sub-assembly:
    D7167017 PUNCH UNIT:NA:ASS'Y
    D7167027 PUNCH UNIT:EU:ASS'Y
    D7167028 PUNCH UNIT:NE:ASS'Y

    When shopping for a PU3040, it is important to get the version appropriate for the binders used in your country. But it is equally important to know that the sub-assemblies above are often advertised as complete PU3040 punch units, while in fact they are not.

    Since these sub-assemblies are available as replacement parts, it is possible to convert one variant to another. The 2/3-hole selection on the NA variant is done by running the motor in one or the other direction. The same goes for the 2/4-hole selection on the EU variant. The SC variant can only punch 4-holes, so it runs the motor in only one direction.
    Even though there's no mechanical difference, the copier needs to 'know' what variant is installed, so the software can offer the proper options to the user. A PU3040 NA (code D716-17) with a D7167027 sub-assembly works perfectly, but the display panel will only allow 3- and 4-hole punch options, with depictions accordingly.
    For punch options in the printer driver, it gets even uglier: The (PostScript) printer driver offers all capabilities of the three variants together, but no holes will be punched if 4-holes is selection for a PU3040 NA, even if it has a D7167027 sub-assembly installed. The user had to know to select 3-holes in order to get 4-holes.

    Fortunately, this can be changed. Even though the sub-assembly is the only difference between the different variants, the copier can still distinguish the variations by means of the DIP switches on board D5875200 on the punch unit. This is NOT documented in the service manual, so here are the settings:
    D7167017, SW1: Off On Off Off
    D7167027, SW1: On Off Off Off
    D7167028, SW1: On On Off Off
    [ATTACH=CONFIG]53748[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]53747[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]53749[/ATTACH]

    So, for example, a PU3040 NA can be converted to a PU3040 EU by replacing the D7167017 with a D7167027 and toggling two DIP switches

    Finally, when shopping online for a PU3040 (and/or a SR3130), make sure to find a full upgrade kit, as they contain all parts required to install them. Parts salvaged from torn-down machines are often incomplete, as it is not obvious which parts are necessary to upgrade a machine that never had it installed.

    For anybody interested: I still have a lot of spare parts. I find it a bit of waste to throw them away, so please let me know if anybody has some use for them. I think then can make a full PU3040 NA (or a PU3040 SC).
    Thanks, information appreciated. It was also risky to test them in the absence of explanations in the service manual.

    Comment

    • blackcat4866
      Master Of The Obvious

      Site Contributor
      10,000+ Posts
      • Jul 2007
      • 22973

      #3
      Re: Converting a Ricoh PU3040 punch unit

      Congratulations on sorting that out. Following your line of thought I can see how you came to your conclusions.

      I've gone through the same situation with another used equipment dealer. Specifically, I bought a Konica Minolta Punch option, but only received the actual punch unit. The driver board, guide plates, mounts, wiring harness weren't there. I worked my way backwards through the installation guide and parts manual listing each of the parts missing (some of which did not have actual part numbers, but were seen in illustrations). Two weeks later I got a large crate. It was a whole finisher with the punch installed. I guess the dealer thought it would be easier to ship the complete unit, rather than identify each listed item.

      Like you, I ended up with a lot of odds & ends that I never used, but it only cost me time waiting to get it all together. =^..^=
      If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
      1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
      2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
      3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
      4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
      5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.

      blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=

      Comment

      Working...