aficio 1060 fuser errors

[euro scott]

i,ve got a customer with a 1060 with 1.2 million on the meter. he called me out for sc545(high fuser temp). i reset the code and refired the machine. then i got sc542(low fuser temp). the fuser does not even begin to get warm. i inspected the thermistors and thermal fuses, and they all look ok. the lamps also test good. which one should i replace first? has anyone been down this road before? thanx

[Vulkor]

Thermostats most likely. Ever checked for continuity across a thermostat? That will tell you which one is bad.

[KopyKat]

i inspected the thermistors and thermal fuses, and they all look ok.

You can't tell the functionality of the thermistors and thermostats (thermal fuses) by looking at them. Ohm out the thermostats...my bet is one is shot. Another way to tell if a thermostat is blown is if you can lightly press on the black surface which faces the roller and it flexes...it's blown.

If it were me I would back armed with the thermistors and thermostats. If it blew a thermostat, chances are your contact thermistor is flackey. Check the condition of your hot roller especially in the area of the contact thermistor. Also inspect the fuser connector for foreign material (paper scraps usually).

One more thing if you go into SP 1106 (fusing temp display) and get a "0" reading from either thermistor...replace it. If that doesn't work you have a connector issue.

[euro scott]

thanx for the quick responses. i will check things out alittle closer

[Vulkor]

You can't tell the functionality of the thermistors and thermostats (thermal fuses) by looking at them. Ohm out the thermostats...my bet is one is shot. Another way to tell if a thermostat is blown is if you can lightly press on the black surface which faces the roller and it flexes...it's blown.

If it were me I would back armed with the thermistors and thermostats. If it blew a thermostat, chances are your contact thermistor is flackey. Check the condition of your hot roller especially in the area of the contact thermistor. Also inspect the fuser connector for foreign material (paper scraps usually).

So detailed! I kinda said that :P If only I weren't so quick to reply. Since Thermostats and Thermistors are so cheap we keep a gross of them and always take both out on Fuser SC calls.

I did not however know the trick about pressing on the fuser facing side.

[KopyKat]

So detailed! I kinda said that :P If only I weren't so quick to reply. Since Thermostats and Thermistors are so cheap we keep a gross of them and always take both out on Fuser SC calls.

I did not however know the trick about pressing on the fuser facing side.

Thermistors and Thermostats. Don't leave home without them.

Yeah, check that trick next time you have a blown thermostat. Learned that years ago from a seasoned tech. Glad to pass it on.

[Fearless V K]

Actually the thermostat surface is convex normally, when they pop the surface will be concave. You can pop them back out by supergluing your finger to it! You may lose a bit of skin though. The ones with the square shaped black pads on them you can get a pick underneath to pop it back out.

If you do reset them, you should replace them asap since they seem to pop easier once they already have.

[KopyKat]

Actually the thermostat surface is convex normally, when they pop the surface will be concave. You can pop them back out by supergluing your finger to it! You may lose a bit of skin though. The ones with the square shaped black pads on them you can get a pick underneath to pop it back out.

If you do reset them, you should replace them asap since they seem to pop easier once they already have.

I've never tried the super glue trick. But then again I'm kinda attached to the skin on my fingers.
Nice trick to know in a pinch however. Thanks!

[tcs04]

Actually the thermostat surface is convex normally, when they pop the surface will be concave. You can pop them back out by supergluing your finger to it! You may lose a bit of skin though. The ones with the square shaped black pads on them you can get a pick underneath to pop it back out.

If you do reset them, you should replace them asap since they seem to pop easier once they already have.

OUCH!......... Just place the thermostat black side down on a desk, hold the sides between thumb and middle finger and then, with your index finger on the back (contact) side, lift and smack down sharply on the desk! this will work after a few trys but I would only consider it a temporary fix!

Also, have you fitted the modified centre (non contact) thermistor? The early ones used to fail due to solder joint failure.

[schooltech]

Yeah, a quick slap on the table will get one going, but I ONLY do this as a temp. measure until it gets replaced. I think that once it's popped, it is weakened forever.

My guess is that it's the 0027 thermostat (the rear one) that has blown.

What I would probably do is to bring the fuser temp down a few degrees as well after you replace the thermostat.

While you are at it, be prepared at some point to change out the center non-contact thermistor (it will usually throw a SC541 code.) Also, a SC541 can be from a dirty drum potential sensor.

The only time I would purposely use super glue on my skin is to seal up a large cut or something and I had no band-aids. Damn, I never thought of that before!!!

[imaginemoko]

i just slam it on the ground then check the continuity, yeah a temporary solution just incase you have no spare of thermostat, as they mention cleaning the thismistor check also the coating of hot roller where the thirmistor is attach to if fade out replace it...