Sharp SF-2030 Keep or Toss?

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  • Mudman
    • May 2025
    #1

    Sharp SF-2030 Keep or Toss?

    Hi thanks for the opportunity to post, I'm the chair of a non-profit, charitable organization that rehabilitates injured and orphaned wildlife. We were donated an old photocopier, a Sharp SF-2030 with multiple paper trays. It worked ok for a while but now it's flashing H4 call for service message. Having read through some of the forum on this machine my guess it's probably not worth the trouble calling in a repair person. Before I haul the beast to the recycle depot I wonder if someone knows what an H4 error is and can advise me if it's a simple fix, something someone with basic mechanical and electronic skills can do, or not worth the trouble.

    Thank you in advance for your assistance.
    Cheers
    Murdo
    Tags: 030, 203, 2030, advance, assistance, before, dirty, electronic, error, flashing, interrupt, lef, mechanical, message, multiple, old, paper, photocopier, power supply, profit, purchase, read, recycle, repair, service, sharp, skills, sold, subcode, trays, trouble
    • lky1978
      Trusted Tech

      250+ Posts
      • Mar 2009
      • 475
      #2
      TRY TO INPUT THE RESET CODE， C ， INTERRUPT ， O ，INTERRUPT， 14 ，READy, then the copier will restart it self. if come out the h4 again, that mean heater lamp blow or thermostat open circuit.

        Comment

        • bilyahn
          Service Manager

          1,000+ Posts
          • Dec 2006
          • 1467
          #3
          This series is about 10 or 15 years old. We still have a couple of them that we do maintenance on but we try real hard to have them upgrade with a newer digital machine. You can still get parts for this model and lky1978 is correct that this is a fuser code. Try the reset code he mentioned and if it starts running again you can remove the fuser (located on the interior left side [2 screws]) be sure to open the left side exit door before trying to remove the fuser. Look at it and if the teflon is damaged or worn through then you will need to replace it. These were a very good series of machines. But to be honest you would be better off putting your money into a newer model.

          Good luck.

          Bil

            Comment

            • Mudman
              #4
              Hi thanks for the replies. I tried the reset code to no avail the H4 message returns. I took out the fuser unit and had a look. The felt like rollers were a bit dirty from toner I guess. The orange coloured roller had no obvious holes worn through but had some wrinkles near the door end and a ring of toner near the back end.

              What's the approximate cost of a replacement part. I'm in Canada, USD will be fine.

              Thanks
              Again for your assistance.
              Cheers
              Murdo

                Comment

                • bilyahn
                  Service Manager

                  1,000+ Posts
                  • Dec 2006
                  • 1467
                  #5
                  I don't think you can purchase the entire unit anymore. You can go to precisionroller.com and look.

                    Comment

                    • JustManuals
                      Field Supervisor

                      5,000+ Posts
                      • Jan 2006
                      • 9838
                      #6
                      To the original poster only. If you email me, I'll send you a free copy of the service manual. I'm always willing to help out a non-profit charitable organization.

                      Paul@justmanuals.com

                        Comment

                        • blackcat4866
                          Master Of The Obvious

                          Site Contributor
                          10,000+ Posts
                          • Jul 2007
                          • 22930
                          #7
                          You'll have trouble finding replacement parts for this beastie. In itself it wasn't a bad machine. I can help out with part numbers and advice, but won't be able to help with parts.

                          You should meter out the heat lamp and thermal fuse (preferably getting 0.5 ohms or less). A failed component will meter infinite on any scale.
                          Also meter the thermistor. A room temperature thermister should read in the 35M ohm range. The actual value is not as important as it not being an open circuit.
                          It's also possible (but unlikely) that the AC power supply driver circuit is blown (CPWBF1135FCE1 AC power supply).

                          Common part numbers for this fuser:
                          SF-330UH Upper fuser roller
                          NBRGY0599FCZZ Upper fuser roller bearings (each)
                          SF-880LH lower roller
                          RLMPU0571FCZZ heat lamp
                          RDTCT0082FCZZ thermistor
                          CROLN0935FC33 oil roller upper
                          CROLN0912FC31 oil roller lower

                          These fusers were not sold as assemblies but rebuilt as needed. I hope that helps a little. =^..^=
                          If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
                          1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
                          2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
                          3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
                          4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
                          5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.

                          blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=

                            Comment

                            • oldrn
                              Trusted Tech

                              100+ Posts
                              • Apr 2008
                              • 166
                              #8
                              Did you hit the print/copy button after entering the number 14 in the simulation? That is what was meant by READy in the instructions given (I think). If so, the machine should reset on it's own and try to power itself back up without human intervention.

                              Also, there is a test simulation 5, subcode 2 for testing the heater lamp without a meter. Using the same sequence that was given previously, entering a 5 instead of 14 will give the option to enter another subcode of 2. The trick is that you need to "cheat" the safety switch for the front door so you can see if the lamp comes on or not. With the front door open, that switch can be see just above the left magnet that holds the door shut. Use a plastic pen cap or similar to hold the switch lever in, enter the simulation, and watch for the lamp to turn on & off. It is supposed to cycle on & off 5 times. It will be bright enough to be seen without removing any covers.

                                Comment

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