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Check to see that your getting the 24 vdc to the SPF controller. These machines are old enough that there is still color coding to the harnass. If yes, you can rule out the pigtail and power supply.
If no, then check the 24 vdc at the power supply. If the power supply is good then pinout the pigtail to the SPF for broken leads to the 24vdc lines(wiggle test).
If there is 24 vdc at the SPF controller, then it's either the SPF controller, the PCU, or the pigtail to the controller.
I usually use the cost rule: I do the free things first, then the cheap things, then the expensive things. So you can do the voltage checks & pinouts for free (labor only), then the pigtail fairly cheaply (if it's still available, or possibly repair a broken lead), then the SPF controller & PCU last.
Oh, you do have one more option. Pitch the SPF in the trash and stick a flat top on it. Let us know how it goes.
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
If we're talking about ID codes, I don't remember anything about them. If the ID codes are on and you made copies, you must have at least 1 valid ID#, correct?
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
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