85XX fuser rebuilds

[Rusty.Harris]

I wrote up a guide for some of my techs that do their own 85xx fuser rebuilds. MOST of the rebuilds I alone do in our shop because when this first started in the winter after the 8508
was released, I wanted one common way to rebuild them, so we could figure out what was causing the issue. We started lowering the 8508 fuser temperature to that of the 5508
which fixed A LOT of the issues, so we knew it was an over heat issue. Most of our schools never run the capacity that would cause an issue with the lower fuser temperatures.
I shared this guide with one of the guys I know with TABS and he said it looked pretty good. So I thought I would share it. Hope it helps.

[djbass]

I find myself replacing the belt holder unit every rebuild (which on average is around 400-600K after they fixed the heat issue). The shield mount is usually cactus by then and it has too much play on one side causing creasing in prints.

[Rusty.Harris]

I find myself replacing the belt holder unit every rebuild (which on average is around 400-600K after they fixed the heat issue). The shield mount is usually cactus by then and it has too much play on one side causing creasing in prints.

Yep, your mileage may vary. I'm averaging 2-3 times between replacement. I asked one of the ATSG guys why they can't just offer the outer shell as a replacement
part and he said well, umm...ahhhh.
I think we know the reason $$$$$ Those belt holders aren't cheap!

[blackcat4866]

Thanks Rusty. It looks good.

We probably already talked about this, but I think it's pertinent to this conversation:
I had a couple machines that were repeatedly blowing PEPI thermostats, even with complete rebuilds. This is what I did:
"C472, C471" error, eS8508A. (08-2002 = 11). Thermostat is blown. Heat belt is de-laminated in a strip toward the center of the belt. Replace heat belt or fuser rebuild kit FR-KIT-FC556-FU (6LK42666000). Replace heat belt holder (thermostat not sold separately: 6LK43645000) or crimp on PEPI branded Kyocera thermostat. Test fuser unit exhausting fan F2 in 03-462 & 461. No filters are impeding that air path. Extend fan operation by lowering the start/stop temperature 08-2386 4>2. Lower temperatures at center thermistor by 5°: Normal 08-2010-0 14>13, Low 08-2010-2 14>13, Deceleration 08-2010-10 12>11.

[djbass]

None of these changes should be necessary if you're using the latest mod parts and firmware, I have not had C471 or related errors in at least a couple of years.

6LL62236000 x 6 (springs on the pad holder)
6LL62238100 x 1 (thicker front stud)
6LL62237100 x 1 (thicker rear stud)

Alternatively, you can also order the field mod belt holder that includes the two new studs 6LK44136000.

[Rusty.Harris]

Thanks Rusty. It looks good.

We probably already talked about this, but I think it's pertinent to this conversation:
I had a couple machines that were repeatedly blowing PEPI thermostats, even with complete rebuilds. This is what I did:
"C472, C471" error, eS8508A. (08-2002 = 11). Thermostat is blown. Heat belt is de-laminated in a strip toward the center of the belt. Replace heat belt or fuser rebuild kit FR-KIT-FC556-FU (6LK42666000). Replace heat belt holder (thermostat not sold separately: 6LK43645000) or crimp on PEPI branded Kyocera thermostat. Test fuser unit exhausting fan F2 in 03-462 & 461. No filters are impeding that air path. Extend fan operation by lowering the start/stop temperature 08-2386 4>2. Lower temperatures at center thermistor by 5°: Normal 08-2010-0 14>13, Low 08-2010-2 14>13, Deceleration 08-2010-10 12>11.

Yep, before they had the fix, that's how we fixed a lot of our problems was to LOWER the fuser temperature to that of the 55xx series. Heck, most of the machines we have are in schools and they never run the volume of the 85xx. Honestly, they should have 45xx series, but always want the bigger machines.
Even after the fuser updates, I left the policy on the cloud to keep the temperatures at the lower temperature levels. Not had one issue with them either.

[Rusty.Harris]

Oh, back during the covid nonsense, when parts were "scarce", a little trick I did was to take a blown thermofuse from the machine, slap it against the bench to reset the fuse.
The metal tab inside would pop back and make the fuse work. Hey, if you have no other way, you do what you can.

[Larhal]

Oh, back during the covid nonsense, when parts were "scarce", a little trick I did was to take a blown thermofuse from the machine, slap it against the bench to reset the fuse.
The metal tab inside would pop back and make the fuse work. Hey, if you have no other way, you do what you can.

Use to do that with the old Ricoh fusers

[djbass]

I would pull the lid up and reset it manually, slapping it didn't always work. If I'm not mistaken fuser temps were already lowered as part of the firmware update.