MP 6000 SC672

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  • KeviM
    replied
    Re: MP 6000 SC672

    By the sounds of it you have a dry joint, which is a strong possibility considering that the machine is over 15 years old. Certain things you can try or should be aware of :

    1) That connector you showed in picture 3 is very important. Make sure it's in properly and where it connects on the board isn't damaged. I've had cases where the pins on the board got damaged and it's hard to see because of where the connector is located.
    2) try removing all the connectors and reinstalling 1 by 1.
    3) Try to swap that entire controller box if you can. If the machine starts working then you know where the problem is. It will isolate your problem.
    4)if you don't have another controller box then... Take the unit out, take a soldiering iron and soldiering wire and go over every point on all the boards in the control box. I got to tell you that this is risky and time consuming. It only works about 10% of the time and there's a risk you could damage the board. Please be careful and try this at your own risk.

    All the best friend and please be careful some of this is risky.

    Leave a comment:


  • GIUBOSS
    replied
    Re: MP 6000 SC672

    Originally posted by orestesp
    I don't know what to tell you guys... it's completely dead again.

    I am honestly out of ideas.
    did you update all firmware as suggested by copier tech?

    Leave a comment:


  • davel
    replied
    Re: MP 6000 SC672

    Time to update to a newer model.

    Leave a comment:


  • orestesp
    replied
    Re: MP 6000 SC672

    I don't know what to tell you guys... it's completely dead again.

    I am honestly out of ideas.

    Leave a comment:


  • slimslob
    replied
    Re: MP 6000 SC672

    Originally posted by orestesp
    The machine worked normally without flickering with the drawer that has the IPU and controller board open. After I tried putting everything back together, the flickering started.

    I just removed the IPU and cleaned all the contacts and cables that connect to the IPU, controller board and the daughterboard that the IPU and the controller board connect to, but no change.

    I will try tomorrow to clean the contacts and cables on the BCU and the rest of the boards on the back of the machine, see what happens. My previous MOSFET theory doesn't make much sense, I think something is loose and not making good contact...
    By drawer I am assuming that you mean the control box on the back. If it quit working when you swung it back in, I would check the connectors where the harness(es) from it to to the PSU connect for bad solder joints. That would cause symptoms to change when the control box is moved. Could also be bad solder joints on the PSU.

    Leave a comment:


  • slimslob
    replied
    Re: MP 6000 SC672

    Originally posted by orestesp
    Well I thought it was using common laptop RAM sticks, but when I checked the notches, they were all wrong.

    Normal SO-DIMM DDR or DDR2 doesn't fit in the slots on the board and given its age, it's impossible that it is DDR3. From their appearance and clock, I am pretty sure that it's using SO-DIMM DDR sticks with a custom notch just so you can't use off-the-shelf RAM sticks, forcing you to buy the RICOH part.
    They usually are off the shelf DIMM strips. They should even have the original manufacturer's label on them. If they do, search what is on the label. Clock speed, memory size and whether 1 or 2 sided are critical.

    Leave a comment:


  • slimslob
    replied
    Re: MP 6000 SC672

    Originally posted by orestesp
    Hello,

    I do not know if the newer models use a typical USB 2.0 cable, but on my machine the operation panel is only connected with some sort of a 14 pin (if I remember correctly) JST connector. Moreover, I have absolutely no idea where this cable ends up on the back side of the machine. No cables connect directly to the control board. The control board is only connected to the rest of the system through some sort of daughter board with a custom black connector. I also fail to find any cable that might be connected on the daughter board and could be the one connected to the operation panel.

    I can check if there is a fuse on the operation panel but I doubt there is a fuse on the control board, since I checked the service/parts manual and although it doesn't have the schematics for the board, one of them does have a complete list of all the components that are present on the board and there seems to be only one fuse, FU1, a 2A fuse.
    The USB data to the op panel was not introduced to the martini series until the MP XX03 models. With the 6000 the panel connected with 4 harnesses of 10 to 13 pins each, two for each end of the panel. Sorry didn't notice luca72 covered that.
    Last edited by slimslob; 12-28-2021, 07:17 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • orestesp
    replied
    Re: MP 6000 SC672

    Originally posted by luca72
    i think, are you going close, the power supply you have to try another one, or check the outputs (see P2P), last month, I got a mp4002, which was giving RDF jam, after having replaced practically everything (in the laboratory) at the end it was the PSU ... just to give an example of weird PSU jokes

    it could be that the some "display" electronic part is not powered, or not enough(?)

    however statistically I see here, that you change a little more IPU than PSU, but this only at the level of numbers ... since there is also that in the connection path
    Originally posted by GIUBOSS
    try to spray the contact cleaner on the connectors and on the cable contacts on the bicu and controller boards
    Originally posted by luca72
    yes, actually, if he says that it worked for a moment, just insist on the connections.
    The machine worked normally without flickering with the drawer that has the IPU and controller board open. After I tried putting everything back together, the flickering started.

    I just removed the IPU and cleaned all the contacts and cables that connect to the IPU, controller board and the daughterboard that the IPU and the controller board connect to, but no change.

    I will try tomorrow to clean the contacts and cables on the BCU and the rest of the boards on the back of the machine, see what happens. My previous MOSFET theory doesn't make much sense, I think something is loose and not making good contact...

    Leave a comment:


  • luca72
    replied
    Re: MP 6000 SC672

    Originally posted by GIUBOSS
    try to spray the contact cleaner on the connectors and on the cable contacts on the bicu and controller boards

    yes, actually, if he says that it worked for a moment, just insist on the connections.

    Leave a comment:


  • GIUBOSS
    replied
    Re: MP 6000 SC672

    try to spray the contact cleaner on the connectors and on the cable contacts on the bicu and controller boards

    Leave a comment:


  • luca72
    replied
    Re: MP 6000 SC672

    Originally posted by orestesp
    Update:

    I managed to get it to work (almost). What I did:

    • Went crazy with the contact cleaner spray, sprayed the cables annotated in pic 1, as well as the lower part of the PSU (I had ran out of the air spray and I wanted to check if I had any bad components on that board, since it was dirty with dust/toner), as seen as in pic 2.

    The machine was in the state that you can see in pic 3. I switched it on and to my astonishment, it worked! I turned it off with the secondary power switch and then the main power switch and got to putting it back together.

    Before putting back the rear covers, I tested it again. This time, the LCD was flickering, the power LED indicator was ON but also flickering (it wouldn't even turn on before all that) and I got a SC-672 again. I then put the PCB drawer in its previous position as before and tried again. This time, the machine booted successfuly, but there was flickering and a slight clicking noise.

    I turned the machine off by the main power switch, in order to prevent any possible damage.

    I then inspected the PSU board. I think it is a bad MOSFET, as you can see in pic 4 a crack seems to have developed. This would also explain the clicking I heard.

    What are your thoughts? If I am mistaken about the bad MOSFET, it clearly is a power delivery issue from the PSU to the board or something isn't making proper contact (which I don't think so since I double checked everything).
    i think, are you going close, the power supply you have to try another one, or check the outputs (see P2P), last month, I got a mp4002, which was giving RDF jam, after having replaced practically everything (in the laboratory) at the end it was the PSU ... just to give an example of weird PSU jokes

    it could be that the some "display" electronic part is not powered, or not enough(?)

    however statistically I see here, that you change a little more IPU than PSU, but this only at the level of numbers ... since there is also that in the connection path

    Leave a comment:


  • orestesp
    replied
    Re: MP 6000 SC672

    Update:

    I managed to get it to work (almost). What I did:

    • Went crazy with the contact cleaner spray, sprayed the cables annotated in pic 1, as well as the lower part of the PSU (I had ran out of the air spray and I wanted to check if I had any bad components on that board, since it was dirty with dust/toner), as seen as in pic 2.

    The machine was in the state that you can see in pic 3. I switched it on and to my astonishment, it worked! I turned it off with the secondary power switch and then the main power switch and got to putting it back together.

    Before putting back the rear covers, I tested it again. This time, the LCD was flickering, the power LED indicator was ON but also flickering (it wouldn't even turn on before all that) and I got a SC-672 again. I then put the PCB drawer in its previous position as before and tried again. This time, the machine booted successfuly, but there was flickering and a slight clicking noise.

    I turned the machine off by the main power switch, in order to prevent any possible damage.

    I then inspected the PSU board. I think it is a bad MOSFET, as you can see in pic 4 a crack seems to have developed. This would also explain the clicking I heard.

    What are your thoughts? If I am mistaken about the bad MOSFET, it clearly is a power delivery issue from the PSU to the board or something isn't making proper contact (which I don't think so since I double checked everything).
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • orestesp
    replied
    Re: MP 6000 SC672

    Originally posted by luca72
    you are right, that series mounts a classic connector, but the error means "lack of communication between controller and operating panel" so I would follow the wiring, it's not that you have to check km ... LOL
    let's go for logic:
    the operating panel (pcb7 OPU) coordinates G-4, connects both to the controller (which you replaced) via cn175 and cn435 (5v, 12v, 24v) and to the IPU cn437 and cn341 (with cn903 in the middle which acts as a bridge) signals digital, thanks to the VIB pcb5 card, one of the three is gone ... I would not exclude the wiring and the psu, which powers all three.
    take a look at the P2P that I have attached to you, it is from 5500,6500,7500, that of 6001 is not there, I hope it is the same and it can be of help
    Hello,

    I have not replaced the control board.

    Will I just be looking for continuity between the wires that connect the OPU to the VIB and then the VIB to the IPU and so on?

    Also, (from my knoweldge on how a computer PSU interfaces with the motherboard), say that the control board commands the PSU to ON. If the control board is dead and doesn't command the PSU to switch ON, wouldn't it be wrong to assume that the PSU is malfunctioning?

    Leave a comment:


  • luca72
    replied
    Re: MP 6000 SC672

    Originally posted by orestesp
    Hello,

    I do not know if the newer models use a typical USB 2.0 cable, but on my machine the operation panel is only connected with some sort of a 14 pin (if I remember correctly) JST connector. Moreover, I have absolutely no idea where this cable ends up on the back side of the machine. No cables connect directly to the control board. The control board is only connected to the rest of the system through some sort of daughter board with a custom black connector. I also fail to find any cable that might be connected on the daughter board and could be the one connected to the operation panel.

    I can check if there is a fuse on the operation panel but I doubt there is a fuse on the control board, since I checked the service/parts manual and although it doesn't have the schematics for the board, one of them does have a complete list of all the components that are present on the board and there seems to be only one fuse, FU1, a 2A fuse.
    you are right, that series mounts a classic connector, but the error means "lack of communication between controller and operating panel" so I would follow the wiring, it's not that you have to check km ... LOL
    let's go for logic:
    the operating panel (pcb7 OPU) coordinates G-4, connects both to the controller (which you replaced) via cn175 and cn435 (5v, 12v, 24v) and to the IPU cn437 and cn341 (with cn903 in the middle which acts as a bridge) signals digital, thanks to the VIB pcb5 card, one of the three is gone ... I would not exclude the wiring and the psu, which powers all three.
    take a look at the P2P that I have attached to you, it is from 5500,6500,7500, that of 6001 is not there, I hope it is the same and it can be of help
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • orestesp
    replied
    Re: MP 6000 SC672

    Originally posted by tsbservice
    Did you tried different RAM?
    Well I thought it was using common laptop RAM sticks, but when I checked the notches, they were all wrong.

    Normal SO-DIMM DDR or DDR2 doesn't fit in the slots on the board and given its age, it's impossible that it is DDR3. From their appearance and clock, I am pretty sure that it's using SO-DIMM DDR sticks with a custom notch just so you can't use off-the-shelf RAM sticks, forcing you to buy the RICOH part.

    Leave a comment:

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