MP 6000 SC672
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Re: MP 6000 SC672
Well, I removed the controller board entirely from the machine, started it up, same exact behavior before throwing a SC672 again, re installed the controller and restarted the machine to the same problem.
I also noticed that the SMD LEDs on the other boards (for example, the BCU) are lighting up, while the LEDs on the controller board (pictured - top left of the PCB) are not. This is just an observation, however.
I guess I will be ordering a replacement controller board.
When replacing it with a good used one, do I only have to transfer the NVRAM to the replacement controller board, as the manual says? If the replacement controller board, for example, comes with an older firmware version, can I just transfer the SD cards from the original board to the replacement?
0-02-05-80841786408d275bc347ff6d337f564e16d780b0b1b3b93151f082c800e21030_ef11f831a6716aa9.jpgComment
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Re: MP 6000 SC672
Well, I removed the controller board entirely from the machine, started it up, same exact behavior before throwing a SC672 again, re installed the controller and restarted the machine to the same problem.
I also noticed that the SMD LEDs on the other boards (for example, the BCU) are lighting up, while the LEDs on the controller board (pictured - top left of the PCB) are not. This is just an observation, however.
I guess I will be ordering a replacement controller board.
When replacing it with a good used one, do I only have to transfer the NVRAM to the replacement controller board, as the manual says? If the replacement controller board, for example, comes with an older firmware version, can I just transfer the SD cards from the original board to the replacement?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]51229[/ATTACH]Comment
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Re: MP 6000 SC672
I did have my mind as well on blown fuses on the controller board and had taken a quick look around but I couldn't see any. Can you point me to their relative location on the board, if you remember?
In general, are there any schematics for those boards to make life easier?
Merry Christmas to you both.Comment
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Re: MP 6000 SC672
try to replace the usb cable of the keyboard, with a flying one to see what happens, secondly, the usb compliance says that on all the usb ports in the world, there is always a small smd protection fuse near the port (for overloads) try to find it and check."loneliness is an invention of the white man, when we are alone we talk to everything around us, we are never alone" (Ojibwa)Comment
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Re: MP 6000 SC672
I do not know if the newer models use a typical USB 2.0 cable, but on my machine the operation panel is only connected with some sort of a 14 pin (if I remember correctly) JST connector. Moreover, I have absolutely no idea where this cable ends up on the back side of the machine. No cables connect directly to the control board. The control board is only connected to the rest of the system through some sort of daughter board with a custom black connector. I also fail to find any cable that might be connected on the daughter board and could be the one connected to the operation panel.
I can check if there is a fuse on the operation panel but I doubt there is a fuse on the control board, since I checked the service/parts manual and although it doesn't have the schematics for the board, one of them does have a complete list of all the components that are present on the board and there seems to be only one fuse, FU1, a 2A fuse.Comment
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Re: MP 6000 SC672
Did you tried different RAM?A tree is known by its fruit, a man by his deeds. A good deed is never lost, he who sows courtesy, reaps friendship, and he who plants kindness gathers love.
Blessed are they who can laugh at themselves, for they shall never cease to be amused.Comment
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Re: MP 6000 SC672
Well I thought it was using common laptop RAM sticks, but when I checked the notches, they were all wrong.
Normal SO-DIMM DDR or DDR2 doesn't fit in the slots on the board and given its age, it's impossible that it is DDR3. From their appearance and clock, I am pretty sure that it's using SO-DIMM DDR sticks with a custom notch just so you can't use off-the-shelf RAM sticks, forcing you to buy the RICOH part.Comment
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Re: MP 6000 SC672
Hello,
I do not know if the newer models use a typical USB 2.0 cable, but on my machine the operation panel is only connected with some sort of a 14 pin (if I remember correctly) JST connector. Moreover, I have absolutely no idea where this cable ends up on the back side of the machine. No cables connect directly to the control board. The control board is only connected to the rest of the system through some sort of daughter board with a custom black connector. I also fail to find any cable that might be connected on the daughter board and could be the one connected to the operation panel.
I can check if there is a fuse on the operation panel but I doubt there is a fuse on the control board, since I checked the service/parts manual and although it doesn't have the schematics for the board, one of them does have a complete list of all the components that are present on the board and there seems to be only one fuse, FU1, a 2A fuse.
let's go for logic:
the operating panel (pcb7 OPU) coordinates G-4, connects both to the controller (which you replaced) via cn175 and cn435 (5v, 12v, 24v) and to the IPU cn437 and cn341 (with cn903 in the middle which acts as a bridge) signals digital, thanks to the VIB pcb5 card, one of the three is gone ... I would not exclude the wiring and the psu, which powers all three.
take a look at the P2P that I have attached to you, it is from 5500,6500,7500, that of 6001 is not there, I hope it is the same and it can be of helpAttached Files"loneliness is an invention of the white man, when we are alone we talk to everything around us, we are never alone" (Ojibwa)Comment
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Re: MP 6000 SC672
you are right, that series mounts a classic connector, but the error means "lack of communication between controller and operating panel" so I would follow the wiring, it's not that you have to check km ... LOL
let's go for logic:
the operating panel (pcb7 OPU) coordinates G-4, connects both to the controller (which you replaced) via cn175 and cn435 (5v, 12v, 24v) and to the IPU cn437 and cn341 (with cn903 in the middle which acts as a bridge) signals digital, thanks to the VIB pcb5 card, one of the three is gone ... I would not exclude the wiring and the psu, which powers all three.
take a look at the P2P that I have attached to you, it is from 5500,6500,7500, that of 6001 is not there, I hope it is the same and it can be of help
I have not replaced the control board.
Will I just be looking for continuity between the wires that connect the OPU to the VIB and then the VIB to the IPU and so on?
Also, (from my knoweldge on how a computer PSU interfaces with the motherboard), say that the control board commands the PSU to ON. If the control board is dead and doesn't command the PSU to switch ON, wouldn't it be wrong to assume that the PSU is malfunctioning?Comment
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Re: MP 6000 SC672
Update:
I managed to get it to work (almost). What I did:
• Went crazy with the contact cleaner spray, sprayed the cables annotated in pic 1, as well as the lower part of the PSU (I had ran out of the air spray and I wanted to check if I had any bad components on that board, since it was dirty with dust/toner), as seen as in pic 2.
The machine was in the state that you can see in pic 3. I switched it on and to my astonishment, it worked! I turned it off with the secondary power switch and then the main power switch and got to putting it back together.
Before putting back the rear covers, I tested it again. This time, the LCD was flickering, the power LED indicator was ON but also flickering (it wouldn't even turn on before all that) and I got a SC-672 again. I then put the PCB drawer in its previous position as before and tried again. This time, the machine booted successfuly, but there was flickering and a slight clicking noise.
I turned the machine off by the main power switch, in order to prevent any possible damage.
I then inspected the PSU board. I think it is a bad MOSFET, as you can see in pic 4 a crack seems to have developed. This would also explain the clicking I heard.
What are your thoughts? If I am mistaken about the bad MOSFET, it clearly is a power delivery issue from the PSU to the board or something isn't making proper contact (which I don't think so since I double checked everything).Comment
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