Heres one to thank Ricoh for!

[Mopar Freak]

I am replacing my first 1022/27 lower fuser frame, AARRRGGHHHHHH!!!!! Could they have made this anymore difficult! If you've got time on your hands maybe it would be just a small nightmare. Oh well just venting! Have a good evening all.

[nmfaxman]

I hear your vent.
I started ordering whole new fuser units because of PLASTIC frame breaking from heat.
I got on my own business and would take my time at night and rebuid one.
No stress and I had the time to confirm it fit right.
If the dealers don't complain the manufacturer doesn't fix.
The squeeky wheel always gets the grease.

[Cipher]

The frame is not meant to break but shite happens.

[Jomama46]

Its only a pita the first time.

[unisys12]

A few of the guys in my shop disagree with me, but when I run into this problem I replace the bearings with a B004 bearing. Bearing sizes are the same, but the B004 bearings have a the rings on the edges. It takes a little working and practice, but you can get those rings to catch on each side of the metal bracket in there. Once the rings have fully cleared the metal bracket, there is no added stress to the bracket or the plastics of the lower frame. And you will find that the bearing is free as well as the hot roller.

Like I said though, you just have to take your time and double check the placement of the rings. It will feel like everything has feel into place, but the rings will sometimes catch on bottom of the bracket. You will notice this by seeing the ring sitting on top of the bracket. Just seat one side and pull the bearing over while seating the other. Once you can see that both rings are on the outside of the brackets, you should be able to freely wiggle the bearing.

The guys at the shop say that it wont work, but.... I have done way to many, without fault. They just don't get the bearings seated properly. Either the top frame will not fit properly or there will be no drive to the hot roller. Both of these are because the hot roller is out of place due to the bearing rings not being seated.

Anyway, just a little tip that I would throw out there. The next time you have to rebuild a lower frame, just give it a shot. Oh by the way... IIRC, the B004 bearings are actually cheaper than the ones without the rings. That is, unless they have changed their pricing. Been awhile so...

[schooltech]

Someone else who uses that trick. I've carried those bearings for years for all of those models, rather than carrying different bearings. And, it does work.

[Cipher]

Someone else who uses that trick. I've carried those bearings for years for all of those models, rather than carrying different bearings. And, it does work.

Does using those bearings with the lip fix the annoying clicking noise that often occurs with these fusers?

They have a RTB about greasing ends of the hot roller where the bearings sit but it makes no difference (or much sense) to do that.

[neergish]

Does using those bearings with the lip fix the annoying clicking noise that often occurs with these fusers?

They have a RTB about greasing ends of hot roller where the bearings sit but it makes no difference (or much sense) to do that.

The fuser clicking is caused by the hot roller gear moving out of its groove, easily fixed by packing the flats on inside of the Gear with a couple of spacers (part no B180 4360).

[schooltech]

The problems I've seen with the clicking is the bearings going bad. Unfortunately, Ricoh never used fuser sleeves on this model, and they needed to. But, if you apply Barrierta grease (Ricoh supplied grease) it generally fixes the problem. The stuff is about 140.00 or so though. I have a few tubes and once I coat the ends and install the fuser bearings, the "clicking" goes away.

As far as fuser grease, the stuff is awesome. This is definitely NOT the red-headed stepchild of grease.

[rthonpm]

I've also used the 5635 bearings with great success when the lower frame breaks. It's helped stop quite a few SC 54x codes over time.
I also lube the ends of the heat tube with Chemplex to help with the squeaking you sometimes get with this model. Following that step at every PM has helped make almost all of my 22/27 family machines running quite happily.

[cobiray]

I've followed up several rookie techs (sorry rookies) and found these broken from improper fuser assembly also. I know the heat compromises the plastic cases, but make sure you (and your counterparts) are properly re assembling the units also. (I'm using the AE03 0047 bearings as a field fix also)

[schooltech]

I've thought that these were one of the easiest fuser assemblies I've ever worked on, yet it amazes me how many techs I've followed up who must have thought they were round hole/square peg assemblies.

Maybe assembly/disassembly comes not just from being in the business for years, but for having a specific attention to detail towards this type of work. People have said to me, "Hell, I could do your job." Really? Here's my tools-go for it. Oh, and good luck figuring out WHY I'm changing what I'm changing. Yeah, you'll surely succeed.

Not to get off-subject, but when I've been in training schools, it really made me nervous to see the technical/mechanical skill of the other techs in class. After that, maybe I DON'T wonder about the whole round hole/square peg situation.

I just don't know if the caliber of tech has changed for the better or the worse over the years. Personally, what I think is happening is that we'll see more IT guys that attempt to troubleshoot copiers and it will continue to evolve into a more hybrid position, as it's currently doing. Some of the old-school techs I've talked to really do not like getting involved in the IT portion of the job, which is where this business is going fast.

This just follows up the post about incorrect installation-sorry about being winded.

[Cipher]

The fuser clicking is caused by the hot roller gear moving out of its groove, easily fixed by packing the flats on inside of the Gear with a couple of spacers (part no B180 4360).

I have tried securing the gear tight to the hot roller with those spacers many times but the problem is still remains.
(In many cases it can be hard to remove that gear and the bearings as the hot roller does slightly expand when heated).

If you do replace the bearings the problem will go away for a while before working it's way back again.
So it would appear to us that the quality of the of bearings are just crap.

But I will try those another bearings with a lip and see how they do.

[Polo-022]

Barrierta grease fixes the problem. Very expensive,indeed, for use in small copiers!!!

[Cipher]

Barrierta grease fixes the problem. Very expensive,indeed, for use in small copiers!!!

As in RTB 25.

We find the barrierta grease pushes out either side of bearings and then goes hard with the heat and the clicking noise re-occurs also making the bearings harder to remove.

My theory is the hot roller shaft under tension slightly rides up the inside of the bearing causing a see-saw effect and that is the resulting clicking noise.